Dowd's Wine Notebook

Everything is a matter of perspective

2012-01-27T12:56:00.001-08:00

North American winery count: 7,834

2012-01-25T11:43:00.000-08:00

SACRAMENTO, CA -- The number of wineries in North America grew to 7,834 in 2011, according to WinesVinesDATA, the research arm of Wines & Vines magazine.

Publisher Chet Klingensmith released the count at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium on Tuesday, the same day the magazine's annual Directory & Buyer's Guide went on sale.

The compilation found 7,345 wineries now operating in the U.S., an increase of 450 wineries, or 6%, from a year ago. Canadian wineries now number 465, up 17%, and Mexico is home to 24 wineries, for a North American total of 7,834.

California continues to count the most wineries in North America, with 196 new wineries, bringing the total to 3,519. California continues to bottle more than 90% of the nation's wine even though fewer than half of North American wineries are in California.

Each state has at least two wineries. The top six states in number of wineries:

California
Washington
Oregon
New York
Virginia
Texas

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Historic wine cooler fetches $782.5K

2012-01-21T12:59:00.000-08:00

NEW YORK -- When you think of wine coolers, you probably don't think of America's founding fathers. But, at a Christie's auction Thursday night, someone thought so highly of a particular wine cooler that he submitted a winning bid of $782,500 for it.

The item in question was an actual cooler for wine that belonged first to George Washington, then to Alexander Hamilton. Pre-auction estimates had forecast a winning bid in the $600,000 range. It went on the block as part of Christie's Americana Week sales.

The buyer was Gary Hendershott, a collector and dealer in Little Rock, AR, who specializes in Washington memorabilia. He won the auction by telephone. I dropped out of the bidding a mere $781,000 earlier.

The cooler is a Sheffield-plate bowl that holds four bottles and ice. It was one of four designed by Washington in 1789 when he was sworn into the presidency and moved into his first official residence, on Cherry Street in New York.

When he left office in 1797, he gave one of the coolers to Hamilton, who had been the nation's first Treasury secretary. It had remained in Hamilton's family until the sale.

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Phony data uncovered in wine-heart study

2012-01-13T09:24:00.000-08:00


Dr. Dipak K. Das

One more reason to wonder about the reality of studies involving wine and health.

Dr. Dipak K. Das, director of the cardiovascular research center at the University of Connecticut, apparently repeatedly and regularly used fabricated or false data in articles he wrote about his research on the benefits of resveratrol, a compound found in red wine.

A number of studies have concluded that resveratrol activates proteins called sirtuins that have been shown in studies to have protective cardio benefits.

Following up on what it said was an anonymous tip, UConn officials said they found 145 cases of phony data. The university subsequently notified 11 journals that had published Das's writing, including the Journal of Cellular & Molecular Medicine and Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry.

"We have a responsibility to correct the scientific record and inform peer researchers across the country," Philip Austin, interim vice president for health affairs, said in the statement.

CBS cites the research bibliography site PubMed with saying Das has served as a lead author or co-author on more than 150 articles, including a January 2012 study titled, "Health benefits of wine and alcohol from neuroprotection to heart health," published in Frontiers in Bioscience.

Das' other areas of research besides resveratrol include medicines derived from plants and the molecular structure of plants and herbs and their effect on heart disease, according to the Associated Press.

"I don't expect this news to have a big impact on what we work on," Dr. David Sinclair, a resveratrol researcher at the Harvard Medical School, told CBS News in an e-mail. Sinclair had been featured in the 2009 "60 Minutes" report on such research. Sinclair said his research focuses on sirtuins and aging, while a lot of the published research papers in question focused on heart health.

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Update: NJ gets a new wine shipment law

2012-01-11T15:25:00.000-08:00

Renault Winery in Egg Harbor City, NJ

UPDATE: Governor Chris Christie this week signed the bill into law. Earlier story follows.

TRENTON, NJ -- It now is up to Governor Chris Christie whether the law on direct wine sales in New Jersey changes.

Legislation that would allow residents to directly acquire wine from sellers in other states and allow New Jersey wineries to ship wine to customers today received approval from both houses of the state legislature and went to the governor for review and signature.

If he signs the bill, it would establish a special category of vineyard, also covering out-of-state wineries, for all of those producing less than 250,000 gallons of wine annually. They, for a licensing fee of less than $1,000, could operate up to 18 sales rooms across to sell its own products.

Vineyards could also sell to a retailer, such as a licensed liquor store, or to a wholesaler. The winery also would be permitted to ship up to 12 cases to any customer for personal consumption.

The Assembly passed the bill by a 51-18 vote with four abstentions. The Senate approved it 24-9. Christie has until January 19 to sign it into law. If he does not, what is known as a "pocket veto" occurs, and the bill must begin the legislative process all over again.

The Garden State Wine Growers Association has a place on its website consumers may use to urge Christie to act on the bill.

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HV wines finally getting more respect

2012-01-09T10:53:00.001-08:00

Hudson Valley wineries can be forgiven for often thinking of themselves as the Rodney Dangerfield of New York's producers. But, in the last couple of years the region's offerings have been getting a little more respect.

The latest comes from the fact that, for the first time ever, the influential magazine Wine Enthusiast has coordinated a tasting of some of the Valley's best wines. The wines scored high on the magazine’s 100-point scale, with 20 of them hitting the 84- to 89-point range consistently across six producers. This is the first major tasting of the region by any major news organization.

The Hudson Valley is one of the oldest producing wine regions in the U.S., and New York is the nation's third overall producer of wine. In recent years, new wineries, new money and new people have helped raise the overall level to some degree. As I noticed when I judged in the Hudson Valley Wine Competition back in September, some of the highest level Valley wines can hold their own against the more well-known Finger Lakes and North Fork products, and the mid-range quality wines are growing in number.

“We are thrilled with the results,” said Carlo DeVito, president of the 26-winery Hudson Valley Wine Country trade group and co-owner of the Hudson-Chatham Winery in Columbia County.

“The Hudson Valley is a great example of some of the excellent wines New York State produces. Our passion and commitment to making quality wines has been recognized. We think this highlights what we’ve been doing here. The Hudson Valley is making wines that can compete anywhere.”

Here is a rundown of the scoring, by winery:

TOUSEY WINERY

86, Tousey Winery 2010 Pinot Noir 2010, $20
85, Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc, $22
84, Tousey 2010 Chardonnay 2010, $16

MILLBROOK VINEYARD & WINERY

89, Millbrook 2010 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir, $18
88, Millbrook 2010 25th Anniversary Chardonnay, $16
87, Millbrook 2007 Proprietor's Special Reserve Cabernet Franc, $29
87, Millbrook 2009 Proprietor's Special Reserve Chardonnay, $20
86, Millbrook 2008 Cabernet Franc, $20

HUDSON-CHATHAM WINERY

87, Hudson-Chatham 2010 Casscles Vineyard Reserve Baco Noir, $20
86, Hudson-Chatham 2010 Cabernet Franc, $17
86, Hudson-Chatham 2010 Old Vines Baco Noir, $22
86, Hudson-Chatham 2008 Empire Reserve Baco Noir, $22
85, Hudson-Chatham 2009 Old Vines Masson Place Vineyard Pulteney Farm Baco Noir, $20
84, Hudson-Chatham 2010 Field Stone Baco Noir, $30

OAK SUMMIT VINEYARD

88, Oak Summit Vineyard Pinot Noir, $35
85, Oak Summit Vineyard Chardonnay Hudson, $28

BROTHERHOOD

85, Brotherhood Pinot Noir, $16
85, Brotherhood Grand Monarque Champagne, $25
84, Brotherhood Blanc de Blancs, $11

WHITECLIFF VINEYARD & WINERY

88, Whitecliff Vineyard 2010 Reserve Chardonnay, $17
87, Whitecliff Vineyard Cabernet Franc, $20
86, Whitecliff Vineyard 2010 Traminette, $16

PALAIA VINEYARDS

84, Palaia Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc, $19

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SF Chronicle competition results are in

2012-01-07T13:19:00.000-08:00

The 2012 competition winners.

CLOVERDALE, CA -- Four days of judging in this Sonoma County town sorted out the top winners in the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition that ended Friday.

Sixty judges evaluated 5,500 wines to come up with more than 80 best of class awards. The competition is billed as North America's largest, and this year's number of entries set a record.

The major category winners:

Sparkling: 2006 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Carneros ($28).

White: 2010 Dr. Konstantin Frank Reserve Finger Lakes Gewurztraminer ($25).

Pink: 2011 Barnard Griffin Columbia Valley Rosé of Sangiovese ($12).

Red: 2008 McGrail Vineyards & Winery Reserve Livermore Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36).

Dessert: 2010 Castello di Amorosa Anderson Valley Late Harvest Gewurztraminer ($35).

Label: Mutt Lynch Winery 2009 Out of Reach Muttitag.

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A visual tour of Long Island wine country

2012-01-06T12:49:00.000-08:00

Jason R. Rich created this Long Island, NY, montage. He notes, "This presentation was created as I was doing research for The Insider's Guide to Long Island, a full-length travel guide ... published ... by Globe Pequot Press."

Check out Jason's travel blog.

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2-year-old Pennsylvania winery closing

2012-01-04T13:50:00.000-08:00

During the 2010 harvest.

DALLAS, PA -- A tiny northeastern Pennsylvania winery that opened in 2009 is scheduled to close on February 29.

Temporarily, that could be a good thing for consumers because Pavlick Hill Vineyard plans to sell off its existing wine stock at a 30% discount, or 40% off 12-bottle cases.

On their website, owners Denise and Bill Karlotski said, "With sadness, we have decided to end our business. This was a very difficult decision for us to make, but we are very grateful for the experience and the chance to meet so many wonderful people. We feel like we’ve gained this huge extended family, and that makes us happy.

"So, as of now, our wine store will close the end of February. Starting January 7th (we will be closed January 1-6) and continuing through February 29, we will be having a 'going-out-of-business' sale ... "

The Karlotskis used grapes from their one-acre vineyard to create their wines.

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23rd Boston Wine Festival a 45-day event

2012-01-04T12:00:00.001-08:00

Chef Bruce

• From CBS Boston

BOSTON -- Boston has no shortage of wine events: from free tastings at boutique stores to the appropriately-named Wine Riot to tours and classes, there’s something for everyone. If you’re looking for something on the less riotous end, the Boston Wine Festival might be for you. In its 23rd year, the festival spans all the way from January 6 to March 30, comprised of 45 wine-related dinners, tastings, and seminars. The price tag for many of the events is steep, but the payoff is high for wine connoisseurs.

The Boston Wine Festival was created by Daniel Bruce, executive chef of the Boston Harbor Hotel (which houses the festival). Over the lifetime of the festival, Bruce has created over 3,000 original dishes to pair with the wines.

The festivities kick off with an opening reception on January 6 which includes tastings of more than 50 wines from featured vineyards as well as tastings of some of Bruce’s creations. At $100, this is the least expensive event in January. On the higher end, the month ends with "Super Tuscans," a $295-per-person four-course dinner paired with Tuscan wines, such as Ornellaia, Brancaia, and Sassicaia. Another January pick is the Battle of the Cabernets (January 12 or 13, $225-per-person): Napa Valley cabernets, food pairings, a blind tasting led by a cabernet expert panel, and a vote for the favorite. Châteauneuf-du-Pape more your style? A seminar and dinner on the January 20 highlights this region; the event is hosted by Ambassador Alain Junguenet and his son, John ($185).

[Go here for the full story and schedule.]

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Oregon to designate new wine region

2011-12-30T12:31:00.000-08:00

Quiet time at the Maragas Winery

CULVER, OR -- The state is on the verge of getting another official wine region.

The Oregon Wine Board will recognize Central Oregon as such, according to the founder of Maragas Winery, the first to make wine solely from grapes grown on the climate-challenged High Desert.

Doug Maragas on Thursday told KTVZ.com that he had received confirmation of the news from Charles Humble, marketing and communications director for the Oregon Wine Board.

"It was an incredible Christmas present," Maragas said.

For a decade, Maragas had been working on getting recognition for winemaking and grape-growing in the Central Oregon area.

Soon, when people contact the Oregon Wine Board, the official state representative of the Oregon wine industry, rather than have Maragas Winery listed under the "other" category, it will be listed in its own category. The region will range from Warm Springs to Bend.

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A Facebook thread on a wine review

2011-12-28T14:10:00.000-08:00

I found this fascinating Facebook thread, prompted by a review in the Las Vegas Review-Journal of a $7.99-a-bottle Antinori Santa Cristina Sangiovese-Merlot blend, a hoot. Only the writers' surnames have been deleted.

THE REVIEW

In the glass: Santa Cristina wine is a deep garnet-red color with a fairly dense core going out into a lightly tinged rim definition with high viscosity.

On the nose: There are indicators that the famous terroir from which this wine's fruit is sourced shines through with powerful forward stewed red fruit dominated by ripe Morello cherries and cooked sloe fruit, with underlying notes of leather, plums, earthy minerals, herbs and dried red flowers.

On the palate: It is a nicely ripe and mature mouthful of wine right off the bat with red cherries, rhubarb compote, pomegranate juice and slightly rustic undertones, but all well-balanced. The midpalate and the supple finish confirm this with soft tannins and a pleasant lingering finish. It is medium-bodied in style and highly drinkable.

THE FACEBOOK THREAD

Mike: (His "headline") This wine costs eight bucks a bottle. How can it be this complex? What do red flowers taste like?

Mike: On the palate: It is a nicely ripe and mature mouthful of wine right off the bat with red cherries, rhubarb compote, pomegranate juice and slightly rustic undertones, but all well-balanced.

Linda: It's good stuff. My husband and I have been drinking it for years.

Mike: To be honest, I will be drinking a bottle of it in an hour. I like it a lot. But Christ..."slightly rustic undertones."

Mike: I take back the "red flowers" bit. The "red flowers" are on the nose, not on the palate.

Steve: A cheeky little wine but I perceive that you're amused by its presumption.

Mike: There you go...

Linda: It's a good wine, and very reliable from one bottle to the next, unlike most Chardonnays, which I find can vary a lot in quality.

Mike: Agree, Linda. And I get grossed out by bad reds...anything white is drinkable if cold enough (except Foxhorn). It's a great red for the money. But where do wine reviewers come up with this bullshit? Who has the taste of "rhubarb compote" so imprinted on their tastebuds that their palate can smoke it out in a glass of wine?

Linda: Oh, the reviews are BS, totally. And there have been studies where people doing wine tastings will claim, if they're given the prices of the various wines, that the more expensive ones taste better even if it's a cheap wine in an expensive bottle. So I always just go with what I like.

Mike: Yup. Oh, BTW, one of my friends is a beverage reviewer. He will no doubt show up here and set me straight bigtime.

Mike: Linda, I must say I agree with the viscosity angle. That's pretty obvious even to this hillbilly

Linda: Few things worse than a watery red, IMO. Another good one if you're looking for recommendations is Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. That's been our go-to red for a couple of years now, again, very reliable from one bottle to the next.

Mike: great...thanks...and a decent Zin for you: Cellar 8

Linda: Hm. I generally avoid zins because they're too fruity, but this sounds like one I'd like: "At first, the nose didn’t strike me as distinctly zinfandel. It was was mostly smoky and subtle. Given a chance to open up the zin characteristics ...

Mike: yes...not an overpowering zin. The pepper is nice...and you can't beat the farty nose

Bill (the aforementioned "beverage reviewer"): If I'm not mistaken, Farty Nose is a registered trademark.

Charlie: Can't go wrong with a pint of Guinness or a selection from Brown's in Troy.

Mike (a different one): Mike.. chill...when purchasing wine,those of us with a discriminating palate have learned to choose a box whose corners have been glued,not stapled

Christopher: Delicious is my favorite comment. Tastes good works also. Try the Sterling Meritage. Yummy. (Yummy is a good word!)

Lynn: Red flowers taste like.. Perfume.

Dan: I know what red flowers don't taste like...blue flowers.

John: best wine description I've read--noted that the wine tasted of road tar--and that was a good thing.

Mary Ellen: I like white merlot. It tastes like the stuff my Italian grandfather made in the cellar. That's a good thing.

Tim: Whatever happened to my early teenage years: "What's the word?" "Thunderbird!" "What's the price?" "Forty twice." Then my palate developing in early adulthood to the half-gallon bottle of Gallo Burgundy. Not too complex or balanced. But, Lord, what a drunk and a hangover I can still feel all these years later.

Mike (the original one): haha..had that. big thing when i was a kid: Ripple and Boones Farm. You could make ice cream floats with ripple, but they weren't very good

Tim: Oh, yes, Ripple too. Thunderbird was our white wine, Ripple our red. I'm too old for Boones Farm. I'd moved on to Lancers or Mateus.

Mike: the wine jingle i remember clearly from TV, Tim, was for something called Kings wine...had a king of diamonds on the front..."Get Kings wine...you'll be feeling real fine...." Forget all your cares and get...Kings wine." Yeah, i bet.

Dan: Well, I've forgotten all about Kings wine...it must have worked. My favorite out here was Spañada...it only came in gallon jugs.

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Study: Draw one, mix one for health

2011-12-27T15:28:00.001-08:00

We've been trying to keep up with the regular stream of studies suggesting wine has all sorts of magical, mystical medicinal properties that will lead to better health, longer life, etc. Now, brews and spirits are getting some extra support.

A two-decade study published in the January issue of The Journal of Studies On Alcohol and Drugs reports on connections between the moderate consumption of all types of alcohol and increased longevity.

It also supports the findings of prior studies that wine has more beneficial effects than any other alcoholic drinks. However, in a twist that always seems to pop up in any study, researchers said that may because the people who choose wine tend to be more naturally healthy anyway. Go figure.

The study of 802 men and women ages 55 to 65. Of that number, 281 "low wine drinkers" consumed less than one-third of their alcohol intake from wine, 176 "high wine drinkers" consumed two-thirds or more as wine, and 345 abstainers. The drinkers had one to two drinks per day, and researchers followed them for 20 years.

Among the findings: Wine drinkers lived longer than abstainers, and high-wine drinkers lived longer than low-wine drinkers.

Charles Holahan, a psychologist at the University of Texas and lead author of the article, said there may be benefits for older moderate drinkers no matter what kind of alcohol they consume. But, he cautioned, "The study does not encourage initiating wine consumption as a pathway to better health."

Ya gotta love those disclaimers.

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NJ direct-ship wine battle heats up

2011-12-27T13:22:00.000-08:00

• From the Asbury Park Press

A trio of towheads scoot around the gnarly vineyards and country-chic tasting room of Wagonhouse Winery, giving chase to their parents, Dan and Heather Brown, as they tend to grapes on their 11 acres and customers stopping by for a bottle of pinot gris.

When Dower, Dawson and Dallas, ages 3 to 7, dash into the large structure designed for shipping and distribution, the Browns fret less: It’s more of a playroom for the boys than the busy commercial operation imagined when built earlier this year in South Harrison, Gloucester County.

Unless a much-debated, much-delayed bill allowing direct shipping of wines in and out of New Jersey is passed by the Legislature in January and signed into law by Gov. Chris Christie, the distribution center will remain an oversize playroom for the Brown boys.

The battle between boosters of direct shipping, who believe it will help fuel economic growth, and the retail alcoholic beverage industry which believes it will cut its profits, has been termed a “David vs. Goliath” fight that once again will go to the mats in the Statehouse.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Direct-ship wine possible in Massachusetts

2011-12-23T08:31:00.000-08:00

Gov. Deval Patrick

• From the Boston Herald

BOSTON -- Christmas may have arrived early for Bay State oenophiles.

Gov. Deval Patrick on Thursday may have inadvertently revived an issue that has flummoxed Bay State policymakers for years, lending support to a bill that would permit Massachusetts consumers to order direct wine shipments from out of state.

“I would sign that bill if it came,” he said during an appearance on WTKK in response to a question from a caller who identified himself as "Dan from Franklin" and said he was frustrated by restrictions on commerce.

Although in 2006 the U.S. Supreme Court struck down state laws that bar consumers from ordering wine shipments, Massachusetts is one of 12 states that have yet to comply. In fact, a Bay State effort to amend its laws in response to the decision was itself struck down in January 2010, the result of restrictions that lawmakers built into the law to protect local wineries from competition.

[Go here for the full story.]

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California grape harvest drops again

2011-12-23T07:50:00.000-08:00

In a California vineyard.

The California grape harvest this year was 3.3 million tons, 9% below the 2010 crop, according to a report just released by the California Department of Food & Agriculture.

That decline is attributed to a second year of a wet spring and unseasonably cool temperatures. And the 2010 harvest wasn't any great shakes compared to the 3.7 million ton harvest of 2009.

This year, many grapes were picked at lower sugar levels, so the alcohol content for wines is likely to be on the moderate side. Higher acids are predicted.

"Surprisingly enough, the quality came out pretty good," Victor Alvarez, owner of Miraflores Winery in El Dorado County, told the Sacramento Bee.

"We lost 40% to 50% of the whites, but fortunately the end of the season was very mild and there was only one rain, which didn't affect things. Everything was well matured and balanced, but the acidity is a little high. The cabernet and zinfandel is looking excellent."

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Dom Pérignon 2003 debuts via satellite

2011-12-09T13:00:00.000-08:00

The French champagne Moët & Chandon on Thursday released its Dom Pérignon’s 2003 vintage in a ceremony linking events in New York, London, Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo.

Via satellite, chef de cave Richard Geoffroy unveiled the wine in a hologram.

"It was a risk, which may be rewarded now," he said of the 2003 vintage "It's at the heart of the house's values -- we're committed to vintage Champagne. My wish is for Dom Pérignon 2003 to remain one of the greatest examples of the vintage in the history of Champagne."

Dom Pérignon 2003 will be available at abut $190.

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New wine books top the holiday gift list

2011-12-02T09:18:00.000-08:00

I've been trying to climb out from under a deluge of wine-centric books released in time for the holiday gift-giving frenzy.

It's an annual effort, and takes a little time away from shilling my own non-wine book now on sale. (Glad you asked. It's "Barrels & Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y in Jiggers and Shots.")

Nevertheless, I've made the sacrifice to cull a trio of good books to top the list. Herewith, my capsulized views of each.

UNQUENCHABLE: A Tipsy Quest for the World's Best Bargain Wines. By Natalie MacLean. Perigee. Hardcover. $24.

First, the title. I have a strong antipathy to labeling any work about wines or spirits "tipsy" or any other euphemism for inebriation. In my view, it cheapens the effort. That said, Natalie MacLean is an excellent guide for the newbie or the experienced wine buyer.

In "Unquenchable," she mixes humor with advice, taking us on a global quest for the best. Her wordsmithing is impeccable, as seen in these examples selected from among many: "The next day, approaching Featherstone Winery, I can see a pepper storm of starlings flying over the vineyard." And, "Even though Sicilian winemaking has improved considerably over the past decade, marsala's former image still sticks to it. Poorly made wines are like a crime-ridden neighborhood, tarnising the reputation of an entire city."

Whether it be during stops in France, Italy, the Finger Lakes or anywhere else, MacLean sweeps the reader along with her on her sometimes-bumpy, always-entertaining jaunt, helping explain the why's and why not's of winemaking, marketing and drinking. She's an excellent travel companion.

THE FOOD LOVER'S GUIDE TO WINE. By Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg. Little, Brown & Co. Hardcover. $35.

Sommelier interviews, encyclopedic listings of grapes and their many twisted vines of heritage, a history of key periods in wine, trivia and tried-and-true wines ... all this and a lot more goes into this latest effort by the writing team of Page and Dornenburg.

This is not the sort of book you'll curl up with in front of the fireplace, a nice Cab in hand. It is, however, a very useful book, something not always a property of a Christmas gift .

If you want to look at tried-and-true food and wine pairings, or check out a bit of wine trivia, then pop the book back on the shelf until the next time you absolutely have to find something in a hurry, this is THE book to have.

THE BIG RED WINE BOOK 2010/11. BY Campbell Mattinson and Gary Walsh. Hardie Grant Books. $25.

Wine has become so ubiquitous on American dinner tables and in restaurants seeking to find the next-best-thing before their competition does that the average consumer can be excused for retreating into a cloud of confusion.

So, this guide to 1,000 red wines should help clear the air while someone else probably is working on a white wine companion tome. It is the third edition of "The Big Red ... " by a pair of Australian writers who like to refer to themselves as regular blokes who like wine.

Their work concentrates on red wines because, the authors reason, they are the most popular and probably the most confusing. Also, Australia puts out a bazilllion of them, and the U.S. markets laps up many.

The book supplies tasting notes on 1,000 or so wines in all price ranges, and talks about value for money, variety of styles and notes on past vintages.

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Wine Spectator makes a Pinot Noir its No. 1

2011-11-27T12:27:00.000-08:00

The winning wine.

Wine Spectator magazine has selected a California Pinot Noir as its "Wine of the Year" for 2011.

The Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 was chosen from among the more than 16,000 wines reviewed in blind tastings this year.

"Part of Kosta Browne's appeal is its unique history," explains Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Wine Spectator. "This small Sonoma winery was founded just over a decade ago by two waiters who pooled their tips so they could make wine.

"Since 2002, Dan Kosta and Michael Browne have made 66 wines that have earned 90 points or higher -- though they don't own a single vine and make wine in a rented warehouse. In 2009, the greatest vintage yet for California Pinot, the team made 11 outstanding Pinots, including our Wine of the Year for 2011, which scored 95 points and was released at $52."

The full list of the Top 100 will be published in the December 31-January 15, 2012, issue of the magazine, available on newsstands beginning December. 6.

Meanwhile, we can reveal the top 10 selections:

1. Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2009 (95 points, $52, 5,818 cases made)

2. Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Kathryn Hall 2008 (96 points, $90, 2,450 cases made)

3. Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Premiere Trie 2009 (96 points, $69, 760 cases made)

4. Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (96 points, $50, 7,000 cases made)

5. Dehlinger Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2008 (95 points, $50, 1,050 cases made)

6. Baer Ursa Columbia Valley 2008 (95 points, $35, 1,095 cases made)

7. Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro 2008 (95 points, $55, 2,188 cases made)

8. Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2006 (96 points, $90, 1,500 cases made)

9. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2009 (94 points, $55, 650 cases made)

10. Chateau de St.-Cosme Gigondas Valbelle 2009 (94 points, $58, 1,175 cases made)

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Yao's first wine to aid 2 charities

2011-11-26T12:08:00.000-08:00

The entrepreneur and his charity wine.

Meet the latest celebrity who hopes success in the wine business is a slam dunk.

Yao Ming, 31, the pro basketball star forced into retirement last summer because of lingering injuries, has a 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon produced by his own Yao Family Wines company.

“Basketball gave me the opportunity to live in the United States and discover many wonderful things in America. Now I look forward to bringing great wines from California back to the Chinese people,” Yao said in a statement.

There are only 1,200 bottles of this particular wine. The wine is to be auctioned this Sunday at a starting price of US$9,429 as a fundraiser for the Special Olympics and for the Shanghai Special Care Foundation, a charity for special-needs children.

Yao is a global ambassador for the Special Olympics. He also is involved in variety of philanthropic work through his Yao Ming Foundation. His winery is located in California's Napa Valley.

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NY, California lead Wine Society competition

2011-11-19T13:56:00.001-08:00

ROCHESTER -- Twenty-one wines, two-thirds of them from New York and California producers, earned double-gold honors in the recwnt American Wine Society competition held here.

To earn double gold, a wine must be unanimously selected by the judges on the panel initially tasting it.

Double gold winners are listed on the chart below. To access the full list of winners in all levels -- gold, silver and bronze -- click here.

The American Wine Society is the oldest and largest consumer-based wine organization in the country, It is for anyone interested in wine and wants to learn more about it. Its mission is the "appreciation of wine through education" and its membership includes wine lovers from novice to expert, amateur and professional winemakers, and people in all aspects of the wine trade. It has 120 chapters with members in 41 states.

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Picking THE holiday wines from memory

2011-11-16T14:28:00.001-08:00

A lineup of sauternes wines.

When I was growing up, wine was something served in our house only on holidays. Cocktails were the order of the day, and to this moment they remain my preference. But, when it comes to mealtimes, I delight in pairing wines and foods. I find the variety available in these days of global cuisine makes it less of a chore than it had been long ago.

The first "holiday wine" I recall being poured at our dinner table was a chilled sauternes, a French sweet wine from the Sauternais region of Bordeaux. I didn't know it was a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea -- also known as "noble rot" -- that causes the grapes to contract and concentrate their juice to raise the flavor level. I did know it tasted great with turkey.

As I grew older, my tastes ran toward drier wines, a fairly natural progression that has led me to regularly imbibe Rieslings, the Alsatian style white that has become a huge seller in the U.S. There are several varieties of Riesling, from dry to semi-dry to sweet to ice wine. Its vintage-after-vintage improvement has helped it reach elite status at domestic and international wine competitions in a comparatively short time.

The strong consumer acceptance of Rieslings has come as Finger Lakes Rieslings have taken the lead in quality and consistency. Australia's Canberra International Riesling Challenge is arguably the top such competition in the world. Sheldrake Point, a Finger Lakes stalwart, in October saw its 2010 Riesling Ice Wine win the "USA Perpetual Trophy for Best American Riesling," just a year after its 2008 Late Harvest Riesling was named "Best Sweet Wine in the World" at the same event.

Another Finger Lakes winemaker, Dr. Konstantin Frank, took home "Best Varietal" honors in the prestigious International Eastern Wine Competition with its 2008 Riesling, Bunch Select Late Harvest.

But, lest we think Rieslings are the only good picks to go with such a mish-mash of flavors and textures for Thanksgiving and Christmas meals as turkey or ham, root vegetables or green beans, roasted yams or mashed potatoes, apple sauce or cranberry sauce, pumpkin or lemon meringue pies ... Think again.

There are several other wines that trace their heritage to the same Alsace region that over the years has belonged first to France, then to Germany, then back to France, and so on, and have become standards in U.S. vineyards, particularly in New York, Oregon, Washington, Virginia and Texas. They all share a clean bite, can range from sweet to bone dry, and work well with a variety of foods so common to our holiday tables. A few examples:

Gewurtztraminer -- Very Riesling-like, but spicier and something that will stand up to herb-infused birds, stuffing and the like.

Pinot Gris -- Especially good as a first-course wine with citrusy or even creamy salad dressings, or with cheese platters.

Zinfandel -- This is a key building block in California's wine industry and has been for more than a century and a half. It originally appeared in Croatia but has become a New World darling. It is available in every shade from pure white to golden yellow to pink to reddish hues. Goes great with virtually any kind of meat and isn't so robust it overpowers lighter side dishes.

When it comes to the after-dinner drink, here we get into the realm of individual preference. There are no wrongs or rights. Everything from a syrupy Frangelico liqueur to a less viscous port wine will work, often depending upon the ethnicity of the imbiber and what customs the household observes.

And, of course, there always is sauternes. Really? Yes, the more mature vintages that tend toward a heavier viscosity make excellent postprandial treats. Ah yes, I remember it well.

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A beer drinker's guide to holiday Champagne

2011-11-16T01:00:00.000-08:00

From the "Dowd On Drinks" archives, updated:

Flash forward to December 26. There you sit, in your latest ugly Christmas sweater that already has a splotch of holiday gravy on the front, wondering how to avoid looking like a schlub when you uncork the champagne you've been assigned to purchase for the next family inquisition commonly known as New Year's Eve.

You like your bubbly, of course, if it says Bud Lite on the label. What do you know about that frou-frou French stuff, and who wants to spend that kind of money on something that tickles your nose and tastes sour anyway?

If you know champagne is French, you may be farther ahead than you realize. The rest is a simple matter of getting educated. Quickly. So, let's take you back in time to just before Thanksgiving 2011 -- like today, maybe. Sit up straight and pay attention.

True champagne comes from the Champagne region in the northeastern part of France which jealously protects the name "Champagne'' worldwide. That's why the phrases "Champagne style'' and "methode champenoise'' appear on a lot of non-French labels. (See how much you've learned already?)

Champagne doesn't taste sour. Crappy Champagne does. However, it does have quite a range from tart to sweet.

There is something called "liqueur d'expedition'' which is used to top off bottles after the sediment has been removed. Because it contains varying amounts of sugar and some reserve wine, the sweetness of the finished product will vary and determines the style of the Champagne.

The most common style is brut -- there is an extra or ultra brut, but you'll rarely see it, especially in the U.S. Brut has 0 to 15 grams of sugar per liter. Then comes extra sec with 12-20 grams, sec at 17-35, demi-sec at 35-50, doux at more than 50 and also extremely rare. You're usually dealing with brut style in this country, and it's a versatile wine for meals, desserts or just quaffing.

Champagne prices range all over the place, such as $15-$22 for a palatable low-end wine to $30-$60 for the better ones without having to sell your first-born to pay for even more expensive ones. My favorites are Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ($39.95) and Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut ($30) among the affordable imports and Chateau Frank 2000 Blanc de Noirs from the Finger Lakes ($29.99) among the "methode champenoise'' domestics.

What should determine the price is what's in the bottle. A non-vintage wine, usually denoted by the letters NV on the label instead of a vintage year, is a blend from several different years. Vintage wines are produced from a single year. Most Champagne houses will designate a vintage only if they think the grape crop from that year was special. Otherwise, they blend their product to meet a certain standard. Vintages are more expensive.

Some of the other top-tier French Champagnes are Taittinger, Moet et Chandon, Bollinger, Cristal, Pol Roger and Dom Perignon. The French-owned Roederer Estate winery in California also produces some nice bubblies.

Champagnes do not have to be golden, as the movies would have you believe. There are Champagnes ranging in color from nearly white to deep gold to rose or bright pink. It all depends on the manufacturing process.

There are Champagnes made entirely from black grapes (blanc de noir) such as pinot noir and pinot meunier and Champagnes made entirely from white grapes (blanc de blanc) such as chardonnay. The rose wines are made by allowing a little more contact with the red grape skins than usual or, in a few cases, even introducing a touch of red wine to the process.

Champagne is best served as cold as you can get it without putting it in the freezer, although that can be strictly a matter of individual taste. The coldness helps maintain the bubbles after opening.

And, speaking of opening, a bad job of doing that can ruin the whole thing. Just keep a few things in mind:

• Remove the wire cage and foil covering the cork.

• Point the bottle away from everyone, including yourself. It is under tremendous pressure, so it can be a dangerous missile.

• Put a dish towel over the top of the bottle and, with your hand under the towel, grasp the cork firmly.

• Hold the cork steady and turn the bottle. The cork will slowly disengage.

• When the cork comes out, keep the towel over the bottle opening for a moment to preserve the gas and the Champagne.

• Pour into Champagne flutes and enjoy.

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In court of public opinion, Champagne reigns

2011-11-15T16:09:00.001-08:00

Marlene Dietrich quaffs Champagne.

The French are a people long known for their skills with food and drink. They often are observed, when anything French isn't praised highly enough for them, to fly into fits of pique. Pique, a French word by way of Latin meaning anger, annoyance, conniption, snit. All aptly descriptive.

Take Champagne, for example. The lovely bubblies made in that region of northern France have, by most laws even beyond La Belle France, been ascertained as the only true Champagne. Made anywhere else and they are mere pretenders to the throne.

Marlene Dietrich (1901-1992), the influential German-born movie star (shown above in a 1959 Paris restaurant), wrote that she loved Champagne because "It gives the impression that it is Sunday and that the best days will soon be upon us.''

Today's wine world largely goes along with the legal aspects as well as that attitude toward Champagne, but it is not a recent conceit. Throughout history the world has known of the French reverence for the wine. Even an Austrian like Johann Strauss the Younger kept it as a major part of his opera "Die Fledermaus'' ("The Bat'') which he adapted from the French vaudeville production "Le Reveillon'' in 1874. In the finale, all sing in praise of Champagne, the king of all the wines.

The French Enlightenment philosopher Francois-Marie Arouet de Voltaire, writing in 1736, noted "the sparkling froth of these fresh wines is the sparkling image of us, the French.''

The French master of fiction Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870) said he always put a glass of Champagne beside his inkwell to give his pen a sparkling inspiration.

So, here we are mere days from that hideously commercialized, yet still nice to have, holiday known as Thanksgiving Day, and just beyond it we have Christmas and New Year's Eve. Days when Champagne enters into the consciousness of many who ignore it the rest of the year.

I was never impressed by the recent years' wave of anti-French sentiment that resulted in such foolishness as "Freedom fries,'' but I do advocate -- as a longtime journalist and defender of free speech in all situations -- saying that Champagne is recherche, French for excellent, delicious, discriminating, pleasing, splendid, superb. All aptly descriptive.

Tomorrow, I'll be presenting, in time for all those aforementioned holidays, my annual guide, "A beer drinker's guide to holiday champagne." See you then.

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Mmmm, wine from a polluted canal area

2011-11-14T11:47:00.001-08:00

Joseph Mariano

BROOKLYN, NY -- New vineyards and wineries keep popping up around New York State with great regularity. So, not every venture is a major news item. This one is different.

Joseph Mariano, 73, a Brooklyn resident who has been an amateur winemaker since 1994, is cultivating a 50-foot grapevine a few blocks from the Gowanus Canal, widely regarded as one of the world's most polluted waterways. Thus, the local water table is very suspect.

From it, he has produced a wine he calls Vinum Nostrum, Latin for "our wine," a product he says is totally safe to drink.

You can get more details on his project from an interview with the New York Post.

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UK inventor comes up with paper wine bottle

2011-11-14T10:56:00.000-08:00

The recyclable paper wine bottle.

I recently reported on my Spirits Notebook blog details of a new product -- Scotch whisky in a can. Today, it's wine in a paper bottle.

No, not a paper bag, a la homeless winos. This is an actual paper bottle, called GreenBottle. It's trumpeted as the world's first such wine package.

GreenBottle is the brainchild of Suffolk, England, inventor Martin Myerscough who based it on a paper milk bottle he created and that has sold 100,000 units since it went on sale in the UK earlier this year.

The wine bottle combines a paper outer layer and a thin plastic lining. The idea is to have a recyclable container rather than fill up landfills with empty bottles.

GreenBottle is in the process of holding talks with supermarkets and wine producers with an eye toward making the paper contaienrs available to consumers as early as next year.

Myerscough told the UK Press Association, "The best thing about GreenBottle is that consumers just get it. We've found that if you offer them the choice of a paper bottle or a plastic one they'll choose paper every time. ... All you would need to do [to recycle] is rip out the plastic lining and put the paper outer-casing in the bin or on the compost heap."

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NZ ratcheting up its U.S. market push

2011-11-07T11:39:00.000-08:00

A vineyard in the Marlborough region.

• From The Wall Street Journal's MarketWatch.com

CHRISTCHURCH -- New Zealand believes it has the 21st Century palate figured out. The New Zealand winemakers’ flagship export -- Marlborough sauvignon blanc -- has blossomed over the last two decades. Now it is pushing the fresh white to find greater favor in high-growth markets.

The industry wants to double the value of its US$877 million wine exports by 2020. Deeper penetration into North America and China are crucial to achieving that goal.

“Our No. 1 market focus is the United States,” said Philip Gregan, chief executive of New Zealand Winegrowers. “Stylistically, we are in the right place to meet expectations of what wine should taste like in a modern lifestyle.”

Gregan says Americans “love New Zealand, even if they haven’t been here.” He hopes that hook -- combined with the unique taste of Kiwi wines -- is enough tighten its grip on the world’s biggest wine consumer.

But, saddled with a high dollar, market-access barriers and uncertainty over evolving Asian wine appetites, the tiny island nation faces stiff headwinds as it seeks to expand its global presence.

[Go here for the full story.]

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China's increasing thirst attracting foreign wine

2011-11-07T11:35:00.000-08:00

• From The Associated Press

HONG KONG -- As growth slows in their traditional markets winemakers from around the world are eager to tap demand in China, but industry players say the increased competition and a lack of wine-drinking culture mean it won't be easy money.

Thousands of people attending a major wine and spirits trade fair here last week sipped and spat countless vintages made by producers ranging from boutique vineyards in New Zealand to famed chateaux from France's Bordeaux region. Others were in town to attend a wine conference that featured speakers including Hollywood director [and California winemaker] Francis Ford Coppola.

Many are keen to get a foothold in China's wine market, which has taken off in recent years, particularly at the high end, as newly-wealthy collectors splurge for bottles of fine French wines at auctions in Hong Kong. The southern Chinese city abolished wine import duties in 2008 in a bid to become a regional wine center and imports surged by nearly 60 percent in the first nine months of 2011 to $940 million. ...

• Year's biggest wine auction nets $14.5 million in Hong Kong.

China is the world's fastest growing market for still light wine and is forecast this year to overtake Britain as the fifth biggest market, according to a September report by UK-based International Wine and Spirit Research. The report forecast that China's wine consumption will double to 250 million 12-bottle cases by 2016, from 125 million in 2010.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Getting the lowdown on high quality sake

2011-10-28T13:59:00.000-07:00

• From Esquire magazine

By DAVID WONDRICH

Sake is different from what we're used to drinking on an almost genetic level. That difference has to do with fermentation, the process whereby yeast eats sugars and excretes them as alcohol and carbon dioxide.

Anything that has sugar in it can be induced to ferment with no trouble at all. To get any grain to ferment, however, be it the barley used in beer and whiskey or the rice used in sake, you have to first convert that grain's starch, which yeast can't eat, to sugar. In the West, we've always done that by malting -- allowing the grain to sprout, which releases enzymes that turn starch to sugar, and then toasting the sprouts to kill them to keep that sugar from being consumed in growth. In Asia, however, they found quite a different way of doing things. A moldy way.

There is, it turns out, a strain of fungus (Aspergillus oryzae, if you want to get technical) that feeds on starch, releasing enzymes in the process that accomplish the necessary starch-to-sugar transformation. Asian brewers domesticated it millennia ago, and indeed, its use forms the basis of most Japanese, Chinese, and Korean brewing.

While very efficient at producing alcohol, particularly when turned loose on as pure a starch as polished white rice -- at 14% to 20%, sake has the highest percentage of alcohol of any fermented beverage -- it does have a strong tendency to impart a characteristic musty, funky fragrance to the finished product. Properly handled, that can be pleasing even to the untrained Western palate -- a good sake has a unique balance of refreshment and savoriness, with the sweet, clean graininess of a German lager and the palate-cleansing minerality of a good pinot noir. But finding one that fits your comfort level ain't easy.

The classification system is dazzlingly complex. Is it, like most cheap sakes, blended with alcohol, sugar, and various edible acids, or is it pure (junmai; the good stuff)? Or is it basically pure with just a little alcohol added during fermentation (honjozo; also the good stuff, pretty much)?

[Go here for the full story.]

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Finger Lakes winery takes label competition

2011-10-28T13:49:00.001-07:00

The winning artwork.

The Lamoreaux Landing entry in the 2011 International Wine Label Design Contest has emerged as the grand prize winner.

The Volunteer Center of Napa Valley, CA, sponsor of the contest, announced the results today. The Finger Lakes, NY, winery's design by Veronica Martin won the Overall Award.

Entries were judged on overall originality and creativity, use of typography, and use of graphics.

Says Paul Wagner, one of the judges and co-author of "Wine Marketing & Sales" and wine marketing instructor at Napa Valley College, "The single most important interface between the winery and the customer is the label, on the shelf or in the restaurant. This competition brings attention to the people who are breaking new ground, and developing the most successful designs in the world. The winning labels were fun, dramatic, creative, and most of all, effective."

A call for entries for the next competition will go out in spring 2012. The proceeds of the competition, which are in the form of submission fees, go directly to benefit the Volunteer Center of Napa Valley.

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Chinese infusion rescues Aussie winery

2011-10-26T14:04:00.000-07:00

The Ferngrove winery by the Frankland River.

• From Bloomberg News Service

Ferngrove winery, which grows Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon grapes in Western Australia’s Frankland River, last year faced declining sales and the prospect of breakup if business didn’t recover.

As it sought partners, a Chinese investor visited last October and bought 14,000 bottles of wine to test on friends and associates back home, said Ferngrove Managing Director Anthony Wilkes. They liked what they tasted. In February, the winery received a $1 million investment from the investor’s private firm, which has since increased to $10 million, giving it about 60% of the winery, Wilkes said.

“If they hadn’t come in, the business would potentially have been sold, or parts of it been divested,” Wilkes said. “At the end of the day, we looked at what the alternatives were and this was definitely the best outcome.”

Australian vineyards such as Ferngrove, facing a wine glut, slumping exports and rising competition from countries including Chile and Argentina, are turning to China for salvation. Chinese buyers are proving receptive as they seek to meet surging demand among the nation’s rich, who are developing a taste for grape wine and the expression of wealth it conveys.

Vineyard values have lost as much as 50% since 2008 across Australia’s 60 wine-producing regions -- including the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale in South Australia known for their Shiraz; the cooler Yarra Valley in Victoria, famous for its fruity Chardonnays; and Western Australia’s Margaret River, renowned for its Cabernets -- according to Toby Langley, director of Adelaide-based winery broker Gaetjens Langley.

[Go here for the full story.]

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New York State winery going underground

2011-10-25T13:19:00.001-07:00

WURTSBORO, NY -- Bashakill Vineyards, the Sullivan County winery that won "Best in Show" honors in the recent Hudson Valley Wine Competition, is going underground.

That's no reference to hiding. Rather, it's the implementation of a project owner Paul Deninno has had in mind for a while.

He's constructing a wine cave that measures 9 by 16 feet, with a 40-foot depth. That will be room enough for a tasting bar as well as 20 to 25 barrels.

Deninno plans to age some of his red wines in the cave, which should be an interesting evolution for the likes of his Black Bear Cabernet Franc that won a double gold and best red wine honors, as well as top show honors, in the aforementioned test I helped judge.

Bashakill is located at 1131 South Road, Wurtsboro. Phone: (845) 888-5858.

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'Confessions' of a wine business insider

2011-10-24T11:23:00.000-07:00

W. Blake Gray

Getting an insider's point of view on virtually any topic can be illuminating. In the case of W. Blake Gray, I found that to be the case.

Gray is chairman of the Electoral College of the Vintners Hall of Fame. He once was wine writer/editor for the San Francisco Chronicle, and has been published in several other major publications. In a "confession" written for the online wine magazine Palate Press, he lists "10 Things I Learned in the Wine Business."

He explains that in addition to writing about wine, he "also spent a little over a year working in the wine industry, as a vice president for a startup that bought unsold wine cheaply and sold it to wine shops in the Northeast."

Among the 10 things he talks about in detail:

Publications like this love unusual varieties. Consumers do not.
Most people don’t care about wine-food pairing.
Nobody cares about gold medals.
Wine writers like to explore lesser-known regions. Consumers do not.

You can read Gray's entire "confession" by clicking here.

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Poll: Consumers want truth-in-labeling

2011-10-19T08:46:00.000-07:00

NEW YORK -- Representatives of 15 different wine regions have issued a joint call for policymakers to move ahead with wine truth-in-labeling.

Results from a recent poll of U.S. consumers, conducted by Public Opinion Strategies, released today found that Americans, in particular, have very strong feelings about the role of location in making wine-purchasing decisions. Key findings from the poll of 1,000 U.S. wine drinkers include:

• 79% say they consider the region from which a wine comes an important factor when buying a bottle of wine.

• 75% say they would be less likely to buy a wine if they learned it claimed to be from a place like Champagne, Napa Valley or Oregon, but in actuality was not.

• 84% say they think the region a wine comes from is extremely important in determining its quality.

• 96% say consumers deserve to know the location where wine grapes are grown is accurately stated on wine labels.

• 98% say they support establishing worldwide standards for all winemakers that would require they accurately state the location where wine grapes are grown on wine labels.

"In over 20 years of polling, rarely have we seen such strong feelings on an issue like this," said Rob Autry, partner of Public Opinion Strategies and the lead pollster on this project. "Consumer sentiment this strong is a clear signal that Americans care a great deal about the location a wine comes from and clearly want ready access to that information when looking at a bottle.

The poll was released by the signatories to the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin, a coalition first formed in 2005 when the initial global declaration was signed. The organization has since doubled in size, welcoming its two newest members -- Long Island and Rioja, Spain -- at this year's meeting.

Says Ron Goerler Jr., president of the Long Island Wine Council, “The signatories of the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin have worked to produce world-class wine regions and preserve the integrity of our unique vines and lands. United with Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Jerez and the many other wine regions across the globe, we are committed to educating consumers about the importance of location.”

"The 15 regions gathered here today agree that great wine is made in unique places all over the world and that these unique place names must be protected. A failure to do so undermines all of these wine-growing regions and, as the research shows, runs counter to the expectations of the consumer," said Bruno Paillard, representing the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne. "People want to know where their wines come from."

The 15 international wine regions including Long Island; Champagne, France; Chianti Classico, Italy; Jerez, Spain; Napa Valley, California; Oregon; Paso Robles, California; Porto, Portugal; Rioja, Spain; Sonoma County, California; Tokaj, Hungary; Victoria, Australia; Walla Walla Valley, Washington; Washington state; and Western Australia.

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$4.5M to help Cornell next-gen grape research

2011-10-18T13:12:00.000-07:00

Experimental grape clusters.

GENEVA, NY -- The next generation of improved grapes grown in New York State will be nourished by $4.5 million in federal grants.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture's National Institute of Food and Agriculture Specialty Crop Research Initiative has awarded two grans toitaling that amount to subsidize a pair or projects.

One is headed by Bruce Reisch, Cornell University grape breeder and professor of horticulture. The other is led by Tim Martinson, Extension senior associate. Both projects are taking on the question of how to make grape breeding more efficient ande come to market faster than the typical 15- to 20-year timeline.

"We are focusing on developing wine, juice, table and raisin grapes with three attributes: fruit quality, cold hardiness and resistance to powdery mildew, a fungal pathogen that is costly to control," Reisch told Farm&Dairy.com.

The website reports that "Reisch is working with 24 scientists at all six publicly funded U.S. grape breeding programs on a $2 million project to streamline genomewide DNA analysis and trait-screening methods to more efficiently identify promising progeny. His project team also includes Cornell plant pathologists, enologists, scientists with the USDA-Agricultural Research Service in Geneva and Ithaca, and experts with Cornell's Life Science Core Laboratories got genomics and computation biology.

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NY entry is 'Best American Riesling' Down Under

2011-10-08T12:21:00.000-07:00

CANBERRA, Australia -- The folks from Sheldrake Point Vineyards know they produce a great Riesling wine, but that was underlined when their 2010 Riesling Ice Wine won the USA Perpetual Trophy for Best American Riesling at the recent Canberra International Riesling Challenge.

That came after it had earned a "Top Gold" designation in that category, en route to the big award.

The honor came just a year after Sheldrake Point's 2008 Late Harvest Riesling was named Best Sweet Wine in the World at the same event.

A gold medal went to Anthony Road Winery's 2008 Martini Reinhardt Selection Riesling Berry Selection. Other New York wineries won one silver and 10 bronze awards in this Riesling-only competition.

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OK, so wine doesmaybedoesdoesnot affect health

2011-09-28T11:15:00.000-07:00

ORLAND, FL -- After reading a plethora of studies over the past few years that claim that red wine, consumed in moderation on a daily basis, is good for our hearts, we now have a study that says, not so fast. It might, but then again not precisely the way we've been encouraged to think.

"Our findings do not support that potential cardiovascular benefits of red wine consumption result from blood pressure lowering by polyphenols" [a form of antioxidant], says researcher Dr. Ilse Botden, a Ph.D student at Erasmus Medical Center in Rotterdam, Netherlands.

Instead, while not suggesting red wine isn't heart-healthy, the study says it just doesn't seem to work by lowering blood pressure. Botden says the benefit of red wine and heart health "apparently occurs in a blood pressure-independent manner."

Botden is presenting the findings today at the American Heart Association's High Blood Pressure Research 2011 Scientific Sessions being held here.

[Go to WebMD for a full report on the study.]

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Snooth unveils Facebook tasting app

2011-09-22T14:11:00.001-07:00

NEW YORK -- Facebook's ongoing changes are more than cosmetic. They also are encouraging other entities to get more creative.

One of the first to announce a new application to take advantage of the changes is Snooth Media, which today announced a new social wine tasting experience integrated with Facebook.

The app will allow users to tell their friends that they are “tasting” a specific wine from Snooth.com. It was announced at the f8 developers conference being held here.

Full details are available on Snooth and its Facebook page.

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RIP Pennsylvania wine kiosks

2011-09-21T13:53:00.000-07:00

HARRISBURG, PA -- Theshaky year-long experiment with wine kiosk vending mchines in the commonwealth is over.

The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board has ended the trial because of a financial dispute with the contractor. Monday was the final day to resolve the dispute with contractor Simple Brands LLC and keep the machines operating.

Board CEO Joe Conti said he cannot foresee the program being revived. The board maintains that Simple Brands owes the state about $1 million, but the company disputes that stance. Instead, it says, the liquor board had incurred unnecessary expenses and "improperly" billed the company. Simple Brands is seeking $81 million from the agency for breach of contract.

The machines began operation in several markets last summer, but ran into mechanical problems almost immediately. Both Wal-mart and Wegmans pulled out of agreements to host the machines, citing "mechanical concerns" and too many customer complaints.

"I think it was a great attempt to try to do something for the convenience of our customers," Conti said. "It didn't end up successful, but we learned a lot. We will be better for it, and listen, we had thousands of buyers who predominantly were happy with the convenience when they bought a bottle of wine through these kiosks."

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New Mason-Dixon Wine Trail unveiled

2011-09-16T16:06:00.000-07:00

The new Mason-Dixon Wine Trail.

STEWARTSTOWN, PA -- A new bi-state wine trail has been created to help market 14 different wineries.

In a press conference held at Naylor Wine Cellars here this week, the debut of the Mason-Dixon Wine Trail was announced. It now covers 12 wineries in Pennsylvania and two in Maryland, thus straddling the famous Mason-Dixon line that forms the boundary between the two states.

It succeeds the UnCork York Wine Trail and the original Mason-Dixon Wine Trail, the katter created in the late 1980s by Pennsylvanians Dick Naylor of Naylor Wine Cellars, Mike Fiore of Fiore Winery and John Crouch of Allegro Vineyards. Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, MD, later was added.

Not everyone, however, was satisfied with the marketing ideas of the new entity. The Harrisburg Patriot-News reported that a Lancaster County business, Nissley Winery, opted out of the organization.

Owner Judith Nissley, according to the newspaper, said, "They had that first event in March (Tour de Tanks) and that one is enough to get through, and then they added the one in November (Wine Just Off The Vine. When they first had that, it was one weekend and was voluntary. Now they've increased it to two weekends and they've added that as a signature event, meaning you have to participate in that if you want to be on the wine trail.

"We have other ways of promoting our wine. But most of the wineries on that trail have only their wineries. They don't have any extension stores, they're not reaching out in other ways, and it's important that they draw people to their own winery site."

The member wineries of the new configuration:

• MARYLAND

Boordy Vineyards
12820 Long Green Pike
Hydes, MD 21082

Fiore Winery
3026 Whiteford Road
Pylesville, MD 21132

• PENNSYLVANIA

Adams County Winery
251 Peach Tree Road
Orrtanna, PA 17353

Allegro Vineyards
3475 Sechrist Road
Brogue, PA 17309

Cullari Vineyards & Winery
1251 East Chocolate Avenue
Hershey, PA 17033

Four Springs Winery
50 Main Street
Seven Valleys, PA 17360

Hauser Estate Winery
410 Cashtown Road
Biglerville, PA 17307

Hummingbird Ridge Winery
735 Kise Mill Road
York Haven, PA 17370

Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery
1282 Klines Run Road
Wrightsville, PA 17368

Naylor Wine Cellars
4069 Vineyard Road
Stewartstown, PA 17363

Reid's Orchard & Winery
2135 Buchanan Valley Road
Orrtanna, PA 17353

Tamanend Winery
759 Flory Mill Road
Lancaster, PA 17601
The Vineyards at Hershey
598 Schoolhouse Road
Middletown, PA 17057

West Hanover Winery
7646 Jonestown Road
Harrisburg, PA 17112

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Spike TV renews 'Bar Rescue' series

2011-09-15T12:46:00.001-07:00

Consultant Jon Taffer

Gordon Ramsey had a great idea for "reality" programming when he came up with "Kitchen Nightmares." Take a failing restaurant business, give it a good shake, and, in most instances, make it a success.

The trouble is, Gordon Ramsey. The volatile, foul-mouthed celebrity chef relies too much on screams, insults, put-downs and manufactured drama to push his show along. Luckily, there is an alternative: "Restaurant Impossible," hosted by a pumped-up Brit named Robert Irvine.

While he is forceful with the owners and staff of the failing restaurants, he is rarely demeaning to them, and never foul mouthed. He's much more entertaining, his show more realistic -- except for the cliche of made-up pressure concerning deadlines -- and you don't feel as if you need a shower when you're finished watching an episode.

Now, along comes Jon Taffer with "Bar Rescue." The show, which has just been picked up by Spike TV for a 10-episode second season, started off well for a cable show and has steadily gained audience. Last Sunday, against televised NFL competition, it drew 1.3 million viewers, nearly doubling the July 17 premiere viewership of 742,000.

"Bar Rescue" is a bit of a misnomer. What Taffer, a noted New York hospitality industry guru, deals with is full-service eating-and-drinking establishments. And, his shows deal with the food as well as the drinks, along with service, decor and marketing. His on-camera persona is alternately gruff, encouraging, teaching and, ultimately, decisive. Another altogether satisfactory alternative to Ramsay.

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Virginia wine sales break records

2011-09-04T11:59:00.000-07:00

Virginia Wine Regions: Click on map to enlarge.

RICHMOND, VA — The commonwealth's rapidly-growing wine industry reached an all-time high in fiscal 2011, just ended.

Virginia has more than 190 wineries, ranking it fifth in the nation in wineries in the state.

The office of Governor Bob McDonnell announced that sales of Virginia wines reached a record 462,112 cases in fiscal 2011, an increase from the former record of 414,785 cases sold in fiscal 2010. That represents an 11.4% increase.

Virginia collected almost $1.8 million in wine liter tax revenue, up from about $1.6 million in fiscal 2010.

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Pennsylvania audit: Wine kiosks a dud

2011-09-01T11:16:00.000-07:00

• From the Philadelphia Inquirer

HARRISBURG, PA -- - The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board's oft-criticized wine kiosks have cost taxpayers more than $1 million and should be scrapped unless dramatic improvements are made, according an audit by state Auditor General Jack Wagner.

"We think the wine-kiosk program has failed, and it needs dramatic, radical changes if the program is going to continue to exist," Wagner said Tuesday at a news conference in the Capitol.
The audit found that wine-dispensing machines fell short in large part because of numerous mechanical problems late last year that, in an embarrassing move, forced the LCB to shut them down for a month.

Beyond that, the audit also found that the machines never lived up to the goal of making it more convenient for customers to buy wine, nor did they deliver on the promise of making money for the LCB and state government.

As of this summer, the LCB has spent more to operate the 32 kiosks than it took in, resulting in an operating shortfall of about $1.1 million, Wagner said.

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Final days for whiskey book discount

2011-08-31T13:00:00.000-07:00

My new book, "Barrels & Drams: The History of Whisk(e)y In Jiggers and Shots," will officially be released on September 6.

The retail price then will be $18.95, but you can get a hefty 33% pre-release discount from Amazon.com by going here.

It is a collection I co-wrote and edited with essays from numerous writers famous in the field, from F. Paul Pacult to David Wondrich to Tom Wolfe.

You'll discover the spread of whiskey throughout the world and how it helped build countries. Read profiles of some of the most famous giants of the industry as Jack Daniel, George Smith and the Beam family.

Plus, go behind the scenes of Prohibition to check out the legendary gangsters, small-time rumrunners, a famous NASCAR champion who made his mark as a moonshine runner. And, you'll get insiders' looks at legitimate whiskey-making in such diverse spots as Scotland, Ireland, the U.S., South Africa, India and Japan.

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Massaschusetts wine industry branching out

2011-08-29T12:19:00.000-07:00

• From the Quincy (MA) Patriot-Ledger:

PLYMOUTH, MA -- Rising consumer demand for locally-grown products and a gradual relaxation of alcohol regulations are helping increase the ranks of Massachusetts wineries and launching second careers for a new generation of vintners.

There are now a record 36 wineries operating across the state, including seven that have opened since 2007. Wine production increased by 21% from 2007 to 2010, according to the state Department of Agriculture.

The industry ranges from 80-acre vineyards, such as Westport Rivers, to small "urban" wineries that buy grapes and fruit from farmers and manufacture just a few thousand bottles a year. The industry has continued to expand throughout the economic downturn as entrepreneurs used e-commerce sites, tasting rooms and farmers’ markets to introduce their products to the public.

"The interest in buying local products has been a big reason," said Scott Soares, commissioner of the state Department of Agriculture. "Another part of it is the quality. Once people try some of those local wines, they’re realize it’s some pretty good stuff."

Michael and Pam Carr of Boston acquired the 18-year-old Plymouth Bay Winery this summer from founder Tim Cherry. Fans of fruit wines in particular, the couple saw a niche product they could promote as a sweeter alternative to mainstream varieties such as merlots and cabernets.

The winery will introduce its ninth variety -- a blackberry wine -- this fall. Cranberry wine -- made with products bought from southeastern Massachusetts growers – is a perennial best-seller for the winery.

The winery has turned a profit for all of its 18 years, said Carr, a former salesman for an apparel company. Sales have increased in recent years thanks to shipments to 23 states.

[Go here for the full story.]

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?? mpg on wine and cheese at ?mpg

2011-08-27T12:12:00.000-07:00

• From San Jose Mercury.com

Imagine pulling up to a gas station, and rather than being offered the usual choice between regular or premium unleaded, the gas pump instead read "chardonnay" or "pinot noir." Not for you, of course, but for your car!

Well, if one new experimental car, called the Lotus Exige 270E Tri-Fuel, ever catches on, this scenario may not be so far-fetched. The specialized Exige is capable of running on an ethanol fuel made from wine that isn't up to drinking grade, or whey, which is a byproduct of the cheese or chocolate-making process.

It was one of several new cars showcased recently at an eco-rally sponsored in part by the Prince of Wales' environmental initiative, Start, according to the London Independent.

The car also can run on conventional gasoline (just in case you're out of fuel and still miles away from wine country), as well as methanol, a fuel that can be made by extracting CO2 directly from the atmosphere -- potentially the ultimate carbon neutral fuel. The car is also capable of reaching 60 mph in less than four seconds, making it among the fastest road-legal cars in the world.

A few of the other cars featured at the eco-rally, which began in Oxford and finished at the Mall in central London, included the Lightning GT, an electric vehicle that can run 200 miles on a 10-minute charge, and the Biobug (also lovingly called the "Dung Beetle"), which runs on methane generated from human sewage.

"Vehicles that use fuels other than petrol or diesel are no longer concept cars of the future, but production cars of today," says Andy Dingley, a spokesman for Bridgestone UK, which also sponsored the event. As the global recession continues, more and more people are looking at greener cars, he adds.

Although wine and cheese may seem like alternative fuels better suited for those with a prince's salary, the concept cars nevertheless represent a growing diversity of choice available to car buyers of the future.

This Lotus is still in the research and development phase, so it isn't available for purchase yet.

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Report: South African wine workers abused

2011-08-26T11:34:00.000-07:00

• From BBC News

Workers helping to make South Africa's renowned wines are subject to unsafe working conditions and inadequate housing, a report has said.

Human Right Watch says workers on wine and fruit farms face exposure to pesticides and are blocked from forming labor unions.

The reports also says these workers are some of the worst paid in the country despite strict labor laws.

A trade body for wine producers said the report was unfair. But, the head of Wines of South Africa said the study's claims would be investigated.

Most of the abuses apparently happened in the Western Cape Province, home to six of the country's nine wine (grape) growing regions.

"I spoke to a worker who has been living in a pig stall with his family for more than 10 years," HRW's Kaitlin Cordes told the BBC.

The respondents were identified by trade unions and NGOs [non-government organizations] who have a vested interest in producing the very worst examples”

The 96-page report,"Ripe with Abuse," is based on more than 260 interviews with farmworkers, farm owners, civil society members, industry representatives, government officials, lawyers and union officials. It calls on the government to do more to make sure the labor laws are being respected, following previous similar warnings.

[Go here for the complete story.]

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Give a hoot, or 3, about wildlife

2011-08-25T10:57:00.000-07:00

ST. HELENA, CA -- The Davis & Dyke Winery is for the birds. Literally.

The winery produces Three Hoots wine and donates 5% of its net proceeds to the Audubon Society to help support efforts to preserve wildlife. It also offers free shipping to customers purchasing 12 or more bottles of wine at a time.

Gustavo A. Gonzalez is the winemaker, who creates a wide variety: Consilium Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 and 2008, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009 and 2010, Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Hyde Vineyard Syrah 2009, Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir 2010 and an extra virgin olive oil 2010.

Its founders call Three Hoots "a passion project, driven by a love of wine and nature. Charles 'Jiggs' Davis produced his first private vintage in 2006. Inspired by its success, he went on to form a partnership with friend Jim Dyke. Davis & Dyke Winery became a formal business in 2009 and in 2010 released its first Three Hoots wine."

You can more details on the philanthropy and the winery by clicking here.

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9/11 wine getting rocky reception

2011-08-24T13:12:00.000-07:00

CUTCHOGUE, Long Island, NY -- The folks at Lieb Family Vineyards obviously thought they were on to something when they had the brainstorm to produce a 9/11 commemorative wine.

I haven't seen anyone commenting online who thinks it is anything better than a "brain fart," however, be they celebrities, winemakers or the drinking public.

As we bear down on the 10th anniversary of the terrorist aerial attacks on New York and Washington, DC, and thwarted flight that crash-landed in Pennsylvania, the Long Island winery has unveiled its “9/11 Memorial" commemorative Merlot and Chardonnay.

Gary Madden, Lieb general manager, says the winery lost many friends in the attacks and this is a way of honoring them. The winery plans to donate up to 10% of the $19.11 retail price to the National September 11 Memorial and Museum. (It should be noted that in 2004, Lieb introduced a cheaper bottle, the $9.11 September's Mission merlot, and donated 9.11 cents for every bottle sold to the September's Mission foundation. Lieb estimates it has raised $25,000 off that wine so far.)

New York City Councilman Peter Vallone asked, "What's next? A 9/11 pastrami sandwich?"

Always-outspoken chef/writer/TV host Anthony Bourdain erupted with the tweet, "911 Wine?!!? Are you out of your fucking MIND?!! EPIC FAIL."

What's your view?

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Finger Lakes organic vinifera vineyard sold

2011-08-23T11:37:00.001-07:00

Main building at Silver Thread.

LODI, NY — What is called the only organically-farmed vinifera wine estate in the Finger Lakes has new owners.

Shannon and Paul Brock said today they have entered into an agreement to purchase Silver Thread Vineyard from Richard Figiel, owner and founder. Final sale is pending license approval from the New York State Liquor Authority.

Figiel founded the 10-acre, organically-farmed vineyard on the east side of Seneca Lake. The estate winery has been operating since 1991, producing small quantities of vinifera wines, including Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer and Cabernet Franc.

“We are very excited to have this opportunity to create high-quality wines using the well-established Silver Thread label,” said Shannon Brock, who had been wine coordinator for the New York Wine & Culinary Center (NYWCC) in Canandaigua.

“We have great respect for what Richard has contributed to the Finger Lakes wine industry and will continue to develop the winery in keeping with his vision.”

Silver Thread is rated among the top six Finger Lakes wine producers in the latest “Robert Parker Wine Guide.” Its Riesling label is featured in the sixth edition of “The World Atlas of Wine.”

The Brocks say sustainable farming practices and hand-crafted wine production will continue under their ownership. Shannon will be the general manager. Paul will be consulting winemaker while maintaining his position as instructor of viticulture and wine technology at Finger Lakes Community College. He previously worked as the winemaker at Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars in Lodi. Although Shannon has resigned from the NYWCC, she will continue to instruct Wine & Spirit Education Trust courses there.

Figiel, who will be available as a consultant during the first year of transition, plans to return to fulltime writing. He is working on a history of New York wine for Cornell University Press.

“I turned down the offer of a prestigious Rhone Valley winemaker,” Figiel said, “in favor of the talent, energy and skills of the Brocks and the knowledge that another Finger Lakes family will be taking stewardship of this patch of paradise on Seneca Lake. I’m confident the future of Silver Thread is in good hands.”

Silver Thread is located at 1401 Caywood Road. Phone: (607) 582-6116.

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Moscato fastest growing varietal wine

2011-08-21T13:46:00.000-07:00

Sutter Home brand Moscato

It is doubtful that Moscato would be among the top five or so wines anyone will list as their favorites, but the folks at E&J Gallo Winery are working to change that.

Gallo reports it is selling at least six times the amount of the sweet tasting wine than it did just three years ago. In fact, Moscato, a take on its Muscat origins, is the fastest-growing varietal in the U.S. wine business, helping sales figures rise at such labels as Beringer, Sutter Home and Woodbridge.

According to The Wall Street Journal's MarketWatch online report, "Moscato’s phenomenal rise in America has been stunning. It’s revived prices for the once-lowly grape, strained available vine supply in central California vineyards, and lured a new generation of wine drinkers.

"Big wine companies are scrambling to make as much as possible, with some buying bulk Moscato wine from Spain and Italy to quench demand. ...

" 'I've never seen something like this in my professional career,' said Stephanie Gallo, who joined the family business in 1994. 'What makes this so exciting is that it's bringing new users to the wine category.' "

[Go here for the full story.]

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The remaking of Constellation Brands

2011-08-21T12:36:00.000-07:00

Richard (left) and Rob Sands. (AP photo)

• From The Associated Press:

VICTOR, NY -- Richard and Rob Sands took their father's little wine company on a two-decade buying binge, turning a regional purveyor of low-pedigree plonk into an alcoholic-drinks powerhouse with moderately priced wines, spirits and imported beers like Robert Mondavi, Svedka and Corona Extra.

Along the way, the brothers acquired one other seemingly enviable label in 2003: world's biggest vintner.

Even in a highly fragmented industry in which Constellation Brands Inc. claimed just 4% of global wine production, it was a high point for a family business with post-World War II roots in the Finger Lakes grape-and-wine country in western New York.

But size doesn't trump success. Constellation has been pruning methodically for five years as it strives to invigorate profits in a choppy economy and refocus on solidifying its supremacy in the sweet spot "premium category" -- higher margin wines priced from $5 to $20 a bottle.

In January, it dropped to No. 2 in the vintner-by-volume rankings behind longtime leader E&J Gallo of Modesto, CA, when it offloaded a once-promising Australian wine business that had gone badly awry.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Cornell wine analysis lab re-launches

2011-08-19T12:33:00.001-07:00

Inside the Cornell lab.

GENEVA -- The New York State Wine Analytical Laboratory has re-launched with new equipment and broader capabilities.

The facility, located in the Department of Food Science at Cornell’s New York State Agricultural Experiment Station here, offers more than 25 different chemical, microbiological, and sensory analyses of juice, wine, and distillates for quality assurance, trouble shooting, and federal regulatory compliance.

It also has a hotline for winemakers needing immediate assistance.

Analyses are offered at a discount to all New York bonded wineries, home winemakers, and craft distilleries because approximately one-third of testing costs are subsidized by the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF).

The facility, which is a quarter-century old, does not offer the discount to wine distributors or out-of-state wineries because of the nature of NYWGF funding.

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More research says wine a health-plus

2011-08-19T11:27:00.000-07:00

• From Medical News Today

For over 30 years research has been done and much debate has carried on about the benefits or risks associated with drinking alcohol and wine in particular. After an analysis of research since 1977, it has been determined that drinking moderate amounts of alcohol, especially wine, may lower the risk of dementia which often leads to severe Alzheimer's Disease. Too much increases the risk so balance is necessary.

As a matter of fact, the association between moderate drinking and reduced risk of dementia and cognitive impairment was statistically significant in 14 of 19 countries, including the United States.

Resveratrol, found in wine at fairly high levels, is a naturally occurring antioxidant too that decreases the stickiness of blood platelets and helps blood vessels remain open and flexible. It is also known that it inhibits the enzymes that can stimulate cancer cell growth and suppress immune response. ...

Edward J. Neafsey, a professor in the department of molecular pharmacology and therapeutics at Loyola University Medical Center said:

"We don't recommend that nondrinkers start drinking. But moderate drinking, if it is truly moderate, can be beneficial."

[Go here for the full story.]

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Make some noise for AC/DC The Wine!

2011-08-16T16:23:00.000-07:00

AC/DC, the longtime Australian rock band, has joined a long list of celebrities and groups putting their names on commercial wines and spirits.

The new line of wines, called AC/DC The Wine, has been created in a partnership with Australian winemaker Warburn Estate.

Included in the portfolio are such labels as "Highway to Hell Cabernet Sauvignon," "Hells Bells Sauvignon Blanc" and "You Shook Me All Night Long Muscat," named for several of the group's hits.

The wines initially will be sold only in Australia but, like AC/DC's music, may eventually go global.

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Heron Hill screw cap device in operation

2011-08-15T12:03:00.000-07:00

HAMMONDSPORT, NY -- Heron Hill Winery has put its new screw cap machine into service.

The Keuka Lake facility will release its next bottling of the Game Bird Series with the new closure.

"As part of Heron Hill’s continuing effort to make the freshest, purest Rieslings and Chardonnays, we have invested in an Italian-made Fimer machine capable of bottling wines with either cork or screw cap closures," said owner John Ingle. "We believe the screw cap option will provide the best storage for select products and that it ensures these wines will retain their profile so that consumers may enjoy the wines as our winemaker intended.”

The Game Bird Series will be the first wines on the shelves at Heron Hill’s three locations, restaurants and wine stores. It was developed to honor co-owner Jo Ingle’s father, Wally, a hunter and sportsman and gentleman.

"Our production team has not used a screw capper in past experiences, so we are all very anxious to learn it’s intricacies and see it work," said winemaker Bernard Cannac.

Cannac said screw caps also will be used on the white wines from the Heron Hill Classic line.

"We are choosing wines that do not require bottle aging, like the Chardonnay, Riesling and Muscat," he noted. "The Classic Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc will continue using natural corks because these wines benefit from bottle aging. The Game Bird and whites in the Classic series are ready-to-drink wines, which makes them the perfect candidates for our new screw cap bottling machine. It’s a nice start I think.”

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More woes for PA wine kiosk experiment

2011-08-15T11:36:00.000-07:00

• From the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review

Pennsylvania may be ending its one-year experiment with wine vending machines in grocery stores amid a dispute with a contractor over whether it owes the state almost $1 million.

The Liquor Control Board notified the contractor, Simple Brands LLC of Conshohocken, PA ... that it owes the state nearly $1 million and gave it 45 days to "cure the outstanding debt," said LCB spokeswoman Stacey Witalec. If a payment is not made, LCB officials said they will "cease all kiosk operations."

"We are hopeful we will receive some sort of payment from them," Witalec said.

The kiosks are owned by Simple Brands, Witalec said. The LCB approves the applications for the kiosks in the stores.

There are 32 wine kiosks operating in the state, including 14 in Giant Eagle supermarkets in western Pennsylvania. Giant Eagle spokesman Dick Roberts said its wine kiosk program remains in operation and the company is monitoring the situation.

"It's really a PLCB (Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board) problem," Roberts said.

[Go here for the full story.]

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NJ legislators get time to change wine laws

2011-08-13T14:52:00.000-07:00

• From the Gloucester (NJ) County Times

A U.S. District Court judge has given New Jersey lawmakers a shot at salvaging profits for the state’s wine industry.

In December, a federal Court of Appeals ruled it unconstitutional to allow in-state wineries to sell directly to retailers and in tasting rooms while requiring wineries from other states to go through wholesalers.

(State) Senate President Stephen M. Sweeney backed a bill that would allow state wineries to keep their tasting rooms open and ship their products directly to consumers’ homes. The bill was not passed by the time lawmakers departed for their summer recess.

Assembly Majority Leader Joseph Cryan supports the tasting room business, but wants to require New Jersey wineries to work through distributors.

But, on Monday, Judge Katherine Hayden granted an administrative stay on the matter until March 31, 2012, following a request from the Attorney General’s office on behalf of all parties for a stay “based on their belief that the matter is best resolved through a legislative solution that addresses the constitutional infirmities found by the Third Circuit Court of Appeals.”

Assemblyman John Burzichelli said the stay is positive for the industry as a whole.

“It’s a very good thing,” he said, adding that he supports direct shipping. "That’s the 21st Century. In order for our vineyards to really compete in the global market, they have to be able to ship."

[Go here for the full story.]

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'Trends' that make you say 'Huh?'

2011-08-13T14:30:00.001-07:00

OK, so what are the "experts" telling you that you'll be drinking for at least the next year?

The Food Channel, CultureWaves and the Mintel research firm teamed up to create the TV channel's annual "Top 10 Beverage Trends" list released this week.

Kay Logsdon, editor-in-chief of The Food Channel, said the list confirmed what the network has seen in the marketplace.

"It indicated we're drinking more water these days, although we like to dress it up a little. And, it told us that coupons have little or no influence on whether we purchase a beverage at a fast-food restaurant."

Here are the "trends," in the words of the great seers.

1. D.I.Y. Flavor: Many of us are taking flavor matters into our own hands.

2. Parental Discretion Advised: We're still seeing lots of buzz around beverages and kids.

3. Iced Coffee Is Scalding Hot: Consumption of this cold caffeinated beverage has heated up.

4. For Medicinal Purposes Only: There's certainly no shortage of ways to "drink to your health."

5. Sipping Seasonally and Simply: In much the same way we're eating local and choosing foods when they're in season, we're making a more conscious effort to drink that way, too.

6. Fast Food Beyond the Fizz: There are changes happening here, too, with specialty drinks getting as much play as burgers and fries.

7. Craft Beers: The Buzz Is Back: While overall beer sales are flat these days, sales of craft brews are seeing double-digit increases.

8. Bourbon Booming: The retro revival of the classic cocktail has hip, young consumers bellying up to the bar for whiskey.

9. Show Biz: While the food generally takes center stage in restaurant exhibitionism, beverages are being offered more starring roles.

10. Drinking Ourselves Thin: We want to enjoy our drinks without drinking in the extra calories."

If most of these 10 "trends" leave you saying "Huh?," you're not alone.

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NY wine label OKs to come faster

2011-08-11T12:39:00.000-07:00

Sample label from Millbrook Winery.

WASHINGTON, DC -- U.S. Sen. Charles Schumer, D-NY, who has been pushing the federal government to speed up the process of approving labels for New York State wines, has announced real progress.

Schumer says the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau is streamlining the process of approving labels, something that must be done before the products can be sold. Many of the state's 300-plus wineries have complained that it has been taking months to get such approval.

The senator now says the agency has agreed to immediately begin approving template labels for custom winemakers. That will be good news for those wineries that have complained they need approval each time they make even small changes to artwork or names on labels designed for special events such as anniversaries, weddings and birthdays.

In explaining the delays, the agency has said that over the past decade its staff has been reduced due to budget cutbacks while label-approval applications from wineries nationwide have almost doubled.

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Wineries, Jim Beam form tourist trail

2011-08-11T11:05:00.000-07:00

Shaded area is Bullitt County.

LOUISVILLE, KY -- Four small wineries have joined with distilling giant Jim Beam to create the new Bullitt County Wine and Bourbon Tour, which county tourism officials will unveil here next week at the Kentucky State Fair.

The county will have a booth at the fair, which will run from August 18 through 28, at the Ketucky Exposition Center. Brochures and tour "passports" will be available there as well as at the wineries. They are:

• Brooks Hill Winery in Brooks.
• MillaNova Winery in Mt. Washington.
• Wight-Meyer Vineyard & Winery in Shepherdsville.
• Forest Edge Winery in Shepherdsville.

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NY approves farm wineries changes

2011-07-22T14:32:00.000-07:00

ALBANY, NY -- Governor Andrew Cuomo today signed into law a bill he said will reduce regulatory burdens the State Liquor Authority places on farm wineries.

“This bill is a huge boost for wineries across the state. Reducing the regulatory burdens on farm wineries will allow them to continue to thrive as a key tourism, agricultural, and economic engine for our state,” Cuomo said in a statement.

The law implements several recommendations the New York State Wine Grape Task Force made in its 2008 report to the commissioner of the state Department of Agriculture and Markets. Among its main points:

• Allow farm wineries to operate up to five branch stores without having to obtain separate licenses or being subject to the same off-premise restrictions that liquor stores have under existing state law. The branch stores will be considered extensions of the winery and not separate entities.

• Make clear that farm wineries can provide or use custom-crush services for buyers of New York grapes, making it easier for small vineyards to enter the industry.
Permit the wineries to maintain their direct-shipping reports on site and only provide them to the Liquor Authority when asked to, rather than having to produce time-consuming reports for the state.

• No longer require wineries that manufacture less than 1,500 gallons of wine a year to apply for separate micr0-winery licenses. All farm wineries will have the same license, and micro-winery licenses will continue to cost $50 a year.

• Lift a restriction that limits wineries’ participation in charitable events to five a year. Wineries will obtain annual permits and notify the Liquor Authority of events.

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Here's the lowdown on Idaho's wine scene

2011-07-22T14:00:00.000-07:00

• From the Idaho Statesman:

Exciting things are happening in Idaho wine. The establishment of Idaho’s first American Viticultural Area in 2007 was a big step in elevating the wines of Idaho onto the national and international stage.

An AVA is a defined area for wine (grape) growing, such as the Napa Valley or Walla Walla. The Snake River Valley has been recognized as having unique characteristics and has been legally defined. The AVA is large, more than 5 million acres, stretching from Ontario, OR, nearly to Twin Falls. That makes it the fifth largest AVA in the country.

By comparison, Washington’s Columbia Valley is more than 11 million acres, Oregon’s Willamette Valley is just more than 3 million, and the Napa Valley is 225,000.

An AVA is defined by specific climactic and geographic characteristics. The Snake River Valley AVA is the area that was covered by a prehistoric lake that once existed over much of southern Idaho. That lake was responsible for forming the subsoil upon which we live. The consistency of elevation, soil, and climate means that, in theory, wines grown in the Snake River Valley will have a unique character.

Several winemakers are now lobbying for the creation of sub-AVAs which will further designate the difference between the more volcanic soil surrounding Craters of the Moon and the more sandy soil of Canyon County.

[Go here for the full story.}

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Illegal rice wine popular in NYC Chinatown

2011-07-22T12:32:00.000-07:00

• From The New York Times

NEW YORK -- The restaurant looks like so many others in the roiling heart of Chinatown, in Lower Manhattan: a garish sign in Chinese and English, slapdash photos of featured dishes taped to the windows, and extended Chinese families crowding around tables, digging into communal plates of steamed fish, fried tofu and sautéed watercress.

But ask a waitress the right question and she will disappear into the back, returning with shot glasses and something not on the menu: a suspiciously unmarked plastic container containing a reddish liquid.

It is homemade rice wine -- "Chinatown’s best," the restaurant owner asserts. It also is illegal.

In the city’s Chinese enclaves, there is a booming black market for homemade rice wine, representing one of the more curious outbreaks of bootlegging in the city since Prohibition. The growth reflects a stark change in the longstanding pattern of immigration from China.

In recent years, as immigration from the coastal province of Fujian has surged, the Fujianese population has come to dominate the Chinatowns of Lower Manhattan and Sunset Park, Brooklyn, and has increased rapidly in other Chinese enclaves like the one in Flushing, Queens.

These newcomers have brought with them a robust tradition of making -- and hawking -- homemade rice wine. In these Fujianese neighborhoods, right under the noses of the authorities, restaurateurs brew rice wine in their kitchens and sell it proudly to customers. Vendors openly sell it on street corners, and quart-size containers of it are stacked in plain view in grocery store refrigerators, alongside other delicacies like jellyfish and duck eggs.

The sale of homemade rice wine -- which is typically between 10 and 18% alcohol, about the same as wine from grapes -- violates a host of local, state and federal laws that govern the commercial production and sale of alcohol, but the authorities have apparently not cracked down on it.

A spokesman for the New York State Liquor Authority said the agency had recently received complaints about illegal Chinese rice wine and was looking into them, though he offered no further details. New York police officials said the department had never investigated the trade.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Aussie wine mishap delays U.S. debut

2011-07-22T11:43:00.000-07:00

• From The Associated Press

ADELAIDE, Australia -- An unsteady forklift dropped a container full of fine Australian wine worth more than $1 million, smashing most of the bottles. The winemaker says he is "gut-wrenched, shocked and numb" after the loss of his flagship shiraz.

Sparky Marquis of Mollydooker Wines lost a third of his Velvet Glove Shiraz production after the accident that destroyed all but one of the 462 cases bound for the United States. Each bottle of the Mollydooker wine sells for $200.

Marquis said Friday that when workers opened up the dropped container, "It was like a murder scene. There was red everywhere."

He said the wine was fully insured. The accident has crippled Mollydooker's U.S. launch in September. It will also impact the wine market in Australia.

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Psst! Vermont has a wine industry

2011-07-19T15:56:00.000-07:00

Go here for an interactive version of the map.

• From the Brattleboro Reformer

HALIFAX, VT -- Vermont’s growing wine industry is banking on a new consumer-focused program to bring more visitors to the vineyards and tasting rooms across the state.

The Vermont Grape and Wine Council announced last month the creation of a passport program that will include more than 20 locations. The move is part of a greater effort to increase the awareness of Green Mountain wines.

Visiting a winery or tasting rooms will result in a stamp for the consumer. Completing a form with 10 or more stamps and the customer is eligible for a variety of prizes, including a vacation getaway or basket stuffed with Vermont products.

"Guests come to the winery, they pick up a map of the state of Vermont. And on that map, it lists all the different wineries all over the state," said Lorraine Muha of the Honora Winery & Vineyard Tasting Room in Jacksonville. "When you go to each winery, they each have a stamp that shows that you have been to that particular winery."

Bob Foley of Neshobe River Winery in Brandon, a board member with the council, said the program is designed to promote the industry itself first, and hopefully an increase in sales will follow.

"A lot of folks do not know we have a grape industry in Vermont," he said.

Many of the state’s wineries started small by selling at farmers’ markets, local grocery stores and Vermont liquor outlets. The industry has made valiant attempts to expand its customer-base through festivals and an open house weekend last August.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Brotherhood launches new steel wine kegs

2011-07-05T10:22:00.000-07:00

Signature orange-capped steel kegs.

WASHINGTONVILLE, NY -- Brotherhood Winery is peddling more than wine these days. The nation's oldest winery has come up with a new 20-liter stainless steel wine container it hopes will tap into the growing keg wine sales niche.

The "Brotherhood Winery Wine Keg" is a modification of a design from a decade ago that did not catch on. Rather than using metals that reacted with the wine, creating the signature "rotten egg" smell of hydrogen sulfide, as before, Brotherhood now uses only non-reactive stainless steel for every part of the keg that touches the wine.

The kegs purportedly will preserve the fresh taste of the wine up to two years. Cooling coils in the kegs holding white wine will allow the wine to be served chilled from the tap.

Oak Beverages, a Rockland County wholesale beer distributor, will distribute the kegs statewide. Arrangements are in the works for a Midwest distributor.

Cesar Baeza, Brotherhood co-owner, says the company is hoping to expand from wine-on-tap kegs for restaurants and special event facilities to local beer retailers where individual customers could get refills or replacements of the 20-liter kegs.

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New tax break for Virginia farm wineries

2011-07-03T11:25:00.000-07:00

RICHMOND, VA -- The commonwealth's farm wineries now are eligible to get a tax credit for part of the cost of new or upgraded equipment.

The General Assembly approved a state corporate income tax credit available starting in the current tax year. It allows farm wineries and vineyards to get credit for up to 25% of the cost of certain equipment and materials -- from barrels to fertilizer, for example. The credit is capped at $250,000 a year.

Ann Heidig of Lake Anna Winery is president of the Virginia Wineries Association. She told the Fredericksburg Freelance-Star that even such a small tax change is helpful because it can cost up to $15,000 to put in just one new acre of vines and small business loans are difficult to obtain.

"Any help on the part of the government is really a value added to us and to the government," she said.

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Fading image of the French wine drinker

2011-07-03T11:09:00.000-07:00

The French have long had a global reputation for drinking wine day and night, beginning with children being started with watered-down versions, then continuing to imbibe throughout life.

Well, that no longer is true.

Just 16.5% of the French population now now regular wine drinkers, according to the latest survey from the ESC Pau research center and Toulouse 1 Capitole University. French wine consumption has dropped the equivalent of one bottle per adult each week in two generations.

Regular consumption over meals has been replaced by the French drinking wine occasionally rather than frequently, often on nights out, a pattern of behavior that has developed over the past two generations.

In their study published in the International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Small Business, Pascal Poutet and Thierry Lorey looked at successive generations and their approach to wine drinking, dividing the demographic into four groups.

The oldest was those over 65 years who had lived through the World War II, followed by those between 40 and 65 who lived through a period of growth and worldwide development.

Those 30 to 40 -- "Generation X" -- who grew up through the French economic and political crises of the 1990s, were next, followed by those under 30 -- the Internet generation.

"Each successive generation represents a general increase in libertarian attitudes and irreverence towards institutions," Poluet said.

It is the over-65s who most linked wine consumption with French heritage and were more likely to drink it daily and share the experience. The middle groups are much more occasional drinkers and drink more socially with friends rather than family, and social status is a factor in their wine consumption. For the under-30s, wine consumption is very much the exception rather than the rule.

"There is a dual gap between the three generations, older, middle-aged, younger -- on the one hand, the consumption frequency gap (from a daily wine consumption to a festive one, and then exceptional), on the other, the pleasure gap," evolution from a genuine pleasure towards a more ostentatious pleasure, more difficult to perceive for the younger generation, according to Poulet."

The younger generations may still take pride in French wine but have little awareness of its cultural place in French history, he said.

"It is precisely the progressive loss of the identity, sacred and imaginary representations of wine over three generations that explains France’s global consumption attitudes, and especially the steep decline in the volumes of wine consumed."

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Kentucky school expands vineyard project

2011-07-03T10:20:00.000-07:00

BOWLING GREEN, KY -- In a state widely known for producing whiskey, Western Kentucky University is expanding its vineyard program.

A newly planted vineyard is the third on the WKU Farm. The first two were established in 2008 and 2009. One vineyard is used for education in the university's viticulture courses and for community workshops and tours; the second vineyard is used for research. The new vineyard will be used for wine production when the vines begin producing grapes in three to four years.

Before Prohibition, Kentucky was the third largest grape- and wine-producing state in the country. A resurgent interest in viniculture now has more than 100 Kentucky farmers growing grapes.

[Go here for a full report on the WKU project.]

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P.F. Chang's birthday present: wine deal

2011-06-30T15:18:00.001-07:00

If P.F. Chang were a person, it (he? she?) would be too young to drink. However the national chain is marking its 18th birthday with several promotions, among them a bottled wine promotion.

Every Monday and Tuesday in July, in-restaurant visitors will be able to purchase any bottle on the wine list for one-third off the listed price.

Considering that the industry average markup is double the retail price, that results in a very good deal for consumers, especially since P.F. Chang's pays more attention to its wine list than most chains. One other promotion is the offer of free lettuce wraps for visitors to the chain's Facebook page between July 6 and 31.

Some of the good deals I've pulled from the chain's wine list (price listed includes one-third reduction):

Chateau Mont Redon Grenache Blend, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France, $33+
Beringer Special Select White Zinfandel, California, $22
Kabinett, Gunderloch, "Jean-Baptiste" Riesling, Germany, $24
Angove Nine Vines Moscato, Australia, $15+
MontGras Carmenere, Chile, $17+
Alamos Malbec, Argentina, $15+

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Study: Binge drinking harms young brains

2011-06-30T11:01:00.001-07:00

New research says young binge drinkers may be seriously damaging their brains.

Researcher Tim McQueeny, a doctoral student in the University of Cincinnati Department of Psychology, will present his findings in Atlanta this week at the 34th annual meeting of the Research Society on Alcoholism.

In his study, high-resolution brain scans on a sample of 29 weekend binge drinkers aged 18 to 25 found that binge-drinking –- defined as consuming four or more drinks in one incident for females and five or more drinks for males -– was linked to cortical-thinning of the pre-frontal cortex, the section of the brain related to such "executive functions" as paying attention, planning and making decisions, processing emotions and controlling impulses leading to irrational behavior. McQueeny examined the gray matter -- parts of brain cells that do the thinking, receiving and transmitting of messages.

“We have seen evidence that binge drinking is associated with reduced integrity in the white matter, the brain’s highways that communicate neuron messaging, but alcohol may affect the gray matter differently than the white matter,” he says.

Researchers could see a relationship between gray matter thickness and binge drinking among college-aged young adults. They found that greater number of drinks per binge is associated with cortical thinning. The National Institute on Drug Abuse says 42% of young Americans ages 18 to 25 have engaged in binge drinking.

“Alcohol might be neurotoxic to the neuron cells, or, since the brain is developing in one’s 20s, it could be interacting with developmental factors and possibly altering the ways in which the brain is still growing,” he says.

The research was supported by a $300,000 grant from the National Institute on Drug Abuse.

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In defense of Pinot Grigio's status

2011-06-29T13:45:00.000-07:00

The unfairly mailgned wine.

Sweeping pronouncements about wine probably play some part in why newcomers often are turned off by wine snobbery.

That is why I like to poke a stick at people who make such silly comments. Here's the most recent I've come across. It is a quote from Michael Madrigale, head sommelier at Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud in New York City, according to the blog EatOcracy:

"Ordering a bottle of Pinot Grigio is like ordering salmon at a four-star restaurant -- not entirely bad, but something more appropriate for your grandmother."

What utter drivel! Could it be that Madrigale's employer -- the celebrity chef Daniel Boulud -- makes more money selling other wines if he steers customers away from such things as Pinot Grigio, which usually is fairly priced? I would rather a sommelier, especially such an influential one, make his sales by recommending wines on their own strengths rather than knocking an entire category.

Some of my better casual lunches have been salads and fowl accompanied by a lightly chilled Pinot Grigio -- usually Santa Margherita which is, I believe, the top seller in the category.

The crispness of that wine, with rounds notes of melon, grape and light floral, pairs wonderfully with everything from a bold cheese to a grilled chicken breast to a cider wine vinaigrette on field greens. Oh, and salmon, too.

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A celebri-quote: Kyle MacLachlan

2011-06-25T13:01:00.001-07:00

• The actor Kyle MacLachlan has a growing sideline as co-owner of the Pursued By Bear winery in Washington State. In an interview with The New York Times, he spoke tongue-in-cheek about the vagaries of finding a profit in such a difficult, competitive field.

MacLachlan: "I buy the barrels and (partner) Eric (Dunham) buys the grapes and pays for all the equipment, and then we split whatever profit there might be."

NYT: How big were the profits so far?

MacLachlan: "We were in the high four-figures last year -- almost $9,000 apiece."

[Go here for my archive of Celebri-Quotes.]

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Champion home winemaker has flower power

2011-06-23T11:38:00.000-07:00

Lending a hand with de-flowering.

ONTARIO, NY -- New York State's winemakers, commercial and amateur alike, are a very eclectic bunch when it comes to what they use to make wines. Grapes of all varieties, of course, along with apples, plums, strawberries, pears, raspberries, cherries and the like.

And then there is Jill Misterka.

The Wayne County resident likes to make her special wines out of flowers, something she started in 2009.

She has gotten so proficient at it that she will be awarded three gold medals in August from the amateur division of the New York State Fair competition for her dandelion, lilac and day lily wines.

Misterka, who also is newletter editor of the Rochester Area Home Winemakers, was featured in the Rochester Democrat & Chronicle's "RocBlog of the Day." You can read it here.

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Eastern Wine Competition westernized

2011-06-20T10:41:00.000-07:00

HEALDSBURG, CA -- The annual International Eastern Wine Competition this year was held in the West. Go figure.

The competition, sponsored by Vineyard & Winery Management Magazine, this year was conducted at Villa Chanticleer, a farming complex in California's Russian River Valley that is part of the Santa Rosa Junior College, which trains many of California's wine industry professionals.

The site change, according to Jim Trezise, president of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation and one of the judges, came about because "The New York wholesaler who received the competition wines all these years was unable to do so, for whatever reason, so this year alone a change in venue was required, and next year it will move back east."

OK, that's out of the way. Now, on to the Sweepstakes awards. (You can go here for the full rundown of all medalists.)

Best of Varietal

• Bogle, 2008 Chardonnay, California, $9
• Ferrante Winery, 2008 Gewurztraminer, Grand River Valley, $15
• Dr. Konstantin Frank, 2008 Riesling, Finger Lakes, Bunch Select Late Harvest, $69.99
• Oliver Winery, 2009 Pinot Grigio, $12.50
• Domaine Laurier Winery, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, Reserve, $9.99
• Trecini Winery, 2007 Merlot, Russian River Valley, $28
• Cross Keys Vineyards, 2008 Cabernet Franc, Shenandoah Valley, VA, $21
• Napa Ridge Winery, 2007 Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, $12.99
• Jeff Runquist Wines, 2008 Primitivo, Amador County, Nostr Vino Vineyard, $26
• Balistreri Vineyards, 2008 Sangiovese, Grand Valley, Talbott Vineyard, $22
• Lost Bars, 2007 Icewine, Okanagan Valley, VQA, $38

Riesling Best of Class

• Eagle Crest Vineyards, 2009 Riesling Dry, Finger Lakes, $12.99
• Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen, 2008 Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley, $24
• Chateau LaFayette Reneau, 2009 Riesling Semi-Dry, Finger Lakes, Estate, $14.99

Riesling Champion

• Dr. Konstantin Frank, 2008 Riesling, Finger Lakes, Bunch Select Late Harvest, $69.99

Best of Category Award

Best White Wine:

• Chateau Ste Michelle and Dr. Loosen, 08 Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley, $24

Best Red Wine

• Napa Ridge Winery, 2007 Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, $12.99

Best Dessert Wine

• Dr. Konstantin Frank, 2008 Riesling, Finger Lakes, Bunch Select Late Harvest, $69.99

Best Fruit Wine

• Ackerman Winery, 2009 Raspberry, Iowa, $9.95

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Oregon grape crop hits delays

2011-06-17T18:54:00.000-07:00

Pinot Noir grapes, Chehalem Ridgecrest Vineyard, Newberg, OR

• From The Associated Press

PORTLAND, OR -- Winemakers around the state are coping with another late growing season as persistently cool spring weather delays the growth of the grape crop.

Oregon’s $1.4 billion wine industry has grown to more than 400 commercial wineries where managers try to balance the effects of weather that can range from cool and wet to hot and dry in short order.

At Seven of Hearts winery in Carlton, owner Byron Dooley said the cool early spring has set him back about two weeks from where he would like to be. If he’s jittery, it’s because the conditions are reminiscent of last year, when only an extended burst of sun in early October averted a wholesale washout.

"I always remind myself that it’s not what happens in June but what happens in October that’s most crucial," Dooley told The Oregonian. "But 2010 was the most white-knuckled vintage I’ve been through. I would love not to have to do that all again."

A late start to the growing season makes it difficult to ever fully catch up. And, when summer sunshine comes, unseasonable heat spikes can flood grapes with too much sugar, resulting in flabby, unbalanced wines.

[Go here for the full story.]

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New NY wine-in-markets poll flips another

2011-06-16T14:25:00.001-07:00

BUFFALO, NY -- A survey of wine drinkers conducted by the University at Buffalo School of Management has found that 54% say they are opposed to a proposal to allow supermarkets to sell wine.

That survey, released today, is the flip side of a recent Siena Research Institute Poll at Siena College in Albany County that found that 59% of respondents favored the proposal.

By comparison with Siena's 819-respondent survey, UB surveyed more than 5,000 households.

The survey also was more detailed than Siena's in how questions were asked. Siena's question was part of a larger package of legislative initiatives, while UB's asked numerous questions on the wine sales topic. Some results:

• 54% of respondents said they are opposed to wine sales in supermarkets.

• 42% of those opposing such sales cited "negative impact on small businesses" as their reason.

• 87% of those who favored the proposal did so because of shopping convenience.

• 10% of those in favor cited potential for reduced prices.

According to the co-authors of the study, Jain, Ram Bezawada and Gary Pickering, survey participants included both men (38%) and women (62%) representing all age, income and education groups. Jain and Bezawada are co-directors of the school's Research Group in Integrated Marketing (RIM). Pickering is a professor of biological sciences and psychology/wine science at Brock University in St. Catharines, Ontario.

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Grape 'capital' getting another winery

2011-06-16T13:53:00.000-07:00

Site is near intersection at left.

STARKEY, NY -- Yates County claims it already grows more grapes than any other county in the U.S., and crams 13 wineries into its boundaries.

Get set to make that 14.

Plans have been filed for an 8,500-square-foot wine and beer tasting facility north of Glenora Wine Cellars near the intersection of Route 14 and Dundee-Glenora Road, overlooking Seneca Lake.

The developer is BWF Holdings of Geneva. It has applied for a financial incentive package through the Finger Lakes Economic Development Center for the $3 million project.

If it comes to fruition, it would be the second winery built in Starkey within the past year. The other is Magnus Ridge Winery, scheduled to soon open several miles south, near Rock Stream.

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Constellation unveils line of 'naked' wines

2011-06-16T12:59:00.000-07:00

Constellation's new line.

CANANDAIGUA, NY -- Constellation Wines has unveiled a new line of unoaked -- "naked" -- wines after testing the concept in eight markets.

Simply Naked's inaugural portfolio includes 2010 vintages of pinot grigio, chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, all at a suggested retail price of $9.99. Approximately 150,000 cases were produced for this rollout.

The test markets had been New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Ohio, Georgia, Colorado, Missouri and North Carolina. The wines are made at the Simply Naked Winery in Woodbridge, CA.

Constellation, headquartered in this Finger Lakes community, said the new unoaked wines are subject to aging in stainless steel, "which allows the true varietal character to be fully expressed without the influence of oak barrels."

“When we asked consumers what attracted them to Simply Naked wines, 52% attributed 'simplicity’ as their main motivation to try the wine and nearly half named unoaked style as the reason they would purchase it,” said Nicole Glenn, the new line’s director of marketing.

Constellation Brands, the wine company's parent, also produces suich other wines as Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, Clos du Bois, Robert Mondavi Private Selection, Blackstone, Ravenswood, Robert Mondavi Winery, Simi, Estancia, Wild Horse, Arbor Mist and Paul Masson Grande Amber Brandy.

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A celebri-quote: Jeneil Williams

2011-06-14T12:30:00.001-07:00

As seen in Harper's Bazaar

• Jamaican model Jeneil Williams, who has been on dozens of magazine covers worldwide, was interviewed by the Jamaica Observer. Among other things, she was asked ...

Q: What's your favorite drink?

A: A glass of perfectly chilled Pinot Grigio.

Q: What's been your most memorable experience since you've been working in the fashion industry?

A: Shooting with Karl Lagerfeld for the second time. It was really fun, it was like hanging out rather than working. It was for the Diet Coke campaign.

Q: What's your idea of the perfect date?

A: Simple lounging, going to the movies, and then to dinner with a nice glass of wine.

[Go here for the Celebri-Quotes archive.]

QEII enjoys a casual cocktail

2011-06-14T12:16:00.001-07:00

Queen Elizabeth II at her ease

Most people are used to seeing Queen Elizabeth II dressed to the nines in matching hat, coat and dress, clutching a coordinating purse and giving the Royal Wave to her subjects.

So, it's interesting to seeing her enjoying a casual lunch -- accompanied by a Dubonnet-and-gin -- while clad in casual attire during an outing on the royal family's Balmoral estate in Scotland.

For those unenlightened commoners unfamiliar with Dubonnet, it is a wine-based aperitif popular in Europe and with steady sales in the U.S.

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Poll: NYers want wine-in-markets

2011-06-13T10:46:00.001-07:00

LOUDONVILLE, NY -- Wads of money have been spent, letters to the editor feverishly written, press conferences held, legislators' arms twisted -- all by both camps in the wine-in-supermarkets battle. So, how is it all working out for the latest round of proposed legislation that would allow the same thing 35 other states already permit?

“A strong majority of Democrats, Republicans and independents support passing a law to allow wine to be sold in supermarkets and grocery stores. There is support in every region, with strongest support in the downstate suburbs. Younger voters support it more than older voters,” says Steven Greenberg of the Siena Research Institute at Siena College.

The institute bases that conclusion on a telephone poll it conducted June 5-8 among 819 registered New York voters. It has a margin of error of +/- 3.4 points. It is interesting to note that as time has passed, the percentage of people in favor of selling wines in markets has increased, and the percentage of those opposed has dropped.

Here is the question as posed, with the responses recorded by the institute:

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Weather bedevils California grape growers

2011-06-12T12:33:00.000-07:00

• From The Associated Press

Wild spring weather across California's wine country has been enough to drive a vintner to drink.

From killer snow in the Sierra Nevada foothills to dry-season downpours along the coast to a hard freeze in temperate Paso Robles, 2011 is proving a challenging vintage.

"That's what makes this business so damned interesting," said Jim Fiolek, executive director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association.

It also can keep winemakers up at night.

Jason Haas, general manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard near Paso Robles, said winemaker Neil Collins has experienced many sleepless nights this spring.

"These people who envy the winemaker's lifestyle should drive around here with Neil at 3 a.m. when he knows it's freezing and there's nothing he can do about it," Haas said.

Vintners have long joked that the weather is just like last year -- different. But people expect to find constants in the nation's premiere grape-growing state.

Rain is expected to taper in April and end by May, then not return until November. In those months, balmy temperatures awaken dormant vines from their winter slumber and buds start to break. This year there has been frost and record rain in June. Sustained temperatures over 70 didn't hit until this week in most wine regions.

Now just days before the official start of summer it looks like early spring across California wine country. Buds are just emerging and the fruit is forming far behind schedule.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Chain quits PA wine kiosk program

2011-06-05T15:43:00.000-07:00

That Pennsylvania wine kiosk experiment I've been reporting on has taken a negative turn.

Wegmans, the New York-based supermarket chain that had been home to numerous kiosks, has decided to unplug the devices operated by the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board.

The chain said the machines -- which require buyers to submit to a Breathalyzer, swipe a driver's license and look into a video camera staffed by a state employee -- "proved not to be ... a valuable addition to the shopping experience," according to a statement issued by Wegmans spokeswoman Jo Natale. Consumers in Pennsylvania want to purchase wine in supermarkets, Natale wrote, but not like this.

At this point, kiosks remain in selected Walmart stores in Pennsylvania.

Earlier stories on the topic:

• Walmarts to get PA wine kiosk approval

• PA wine vending kiosks malfunction

• PA starts wine kiosk trial program

• PA wine vending machine plan on hold

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Commercial winery in a Baltimore basement

2011-05-29T13:14:00.000-07:00

Erik Bandzak

• From The Baltimore Sun

BALTIMORE, MD -- In a Canton basement lit by fluorescent lights, a dozen glass jugs of fermenting grape juice share space with a washer, dryer and furnace.

Standing before them, Erik Bandzak surveys his wines: two deep reds made from a Rougeon grape and an Isabella blackberry blend, which every few minutes emit tiny bubbles of carbon dioxide through their glass air locks.

A glass hydrometer, an instrument that gauges a wine's sugar content, measures his Rougeon at about 0.99.

"That's what I want it at," Bandzak says. "You get it below one, it's a dry wine."

A traditional winery this is not. There are no lush vineyards anywhere near this dense residential neighborhood. Nor is there wine aging in 60-gallon oak barrels, or tourists lining up for weekend tastings.

Nonetheless, Bandzak, 30, has launched what amounts to Baltimore's first winery, according to records kept by state regulators. If all goes as planned, in two months the wines of Aliceanna Winery -- what Bandzak has christened his fledgling enterprise -- will be served to the happy-hour patrons of a nearby restaurant, the latest entry in Maryland's burgeoning wine scene.

After months of applications, rejections from city and federal authorities, and health and safety inspections, Bandzak now holds the licenses and permits necessary to sell his wine, making his business Maryland's 50th winery and one of just a handful in urban areas.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Guest comment: Oh, those dumb farmers

2011-05-24T17:00:00.001-07:00

• This column was written for The Suffolk Times on Long Island by a founder of the Long Island wine industry in 1973. She now is a freelance writer and consultant.

By Louisa Hargrave

In a current television ad for Ocean Spray cranberry juice, a young man standing in a cranberry bog in rubber waders plays out the stereotype of a hick farmer as he witlessly dumps a bag of sugar into the “sugarless” cranberries. Images like this of farmers as nitwits has rankled me since, in 1973, I began growing grapes and someone asked me, “Now that you’re a farmer, what will you do with your mind?”

Even as I took on the chores of planting, tending and harvesting a large vineyard, I myself worried that those hours of hoeing weeds and tying vines might limit me. Wasn’t I wasting all those years spent in college, learning chemistry, history and foreign languages, while I toiled through mud, sleet or broiling sun just to get a silent vine to push out a few clusters of recalcitrant grapes?

Over the next 27 years, as I trudged out into the field or down into the cellar (usually in the company of a bounding dog), I came to realize that farming is as challenging to the intellect as it is to the body.

Still, the stereotype of the dumb peasant farmer persists. It is not limited to the United States, as I learned on a recent jaunt to the Champagne region of France. There I stayed for three nights in the village of Aÿ, in a B&B called “Le Logis des Pressureurs” (lodging for press workers) owned by Philippe and Sophie Brun. Philippe is a burly, outspoken vigneron, easily mistaken for a village peasant, though his family owns several grand cru vineyards, and the wines he makes, Champagne Roger Brun, have won accolades including Best Sparkling Wine in Decanter Magazine. ...

Brun described playing the part of the local peasant for the British TV crews that come to film the beginning of harvest every year: “The crews who want an aristocrat find the manager from Taittinger, who has never had dust on his shoes, and stands next to the vineyard in his yellow tie with bubbles on it, talking about magic. For the crews who want the pirate -- that’s me. I go out in my beret, with four days’ growth of beard, spitting, and say the same thing.”

Here on Long Island, similar scenes play out as visitors seeking atmosphere prod the local vintners to go yokel. ...

[Go here for the full commentary.]

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Maryland hikes taxes on all alcohol

2011-05-21T13:24:00.001-07:00

• From The Washington Post

ANNAPOLIS, MD -- In a budget season filled with controversies over taxes, deficits and cuts across the country, Maryland just took a historic step: The General Assembly passed and Gov. Martin O’Malley signed the first increase in beer and wine taxes in 38 years, and the first increase in distilled spirits taxes in 55 years.

The case for the new alcohol tax -- a 3-percentage-point addition to the state’s 6 percent sales tax -- was strong. It will save lives, prevent crime and help to avert thousands of cases of alcohol abuse or dependence. It will also raise at least $85 million in revenue a year. In the first year, these funds will be used to restore much-needed services for people with developmental disabilities, shore up school budgets and support school maintenance and repairs. In future years, the funds can be used to support expanded access to health care; services for people with developmental disabilities or mental health needs; alcohol, tobacco and other drug-use prevention and treatment, and health-care worker training.

Every year, numerous states try to raise their alcohol taxes, and few succeed. Efforts were made in at least 23 states in 2010; none succeeded.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Funeral for Long Island wine pioneer

2011-05-20T15:47:00.001-07:00

Ralph Pugliese Sr.

CUTCHOGUE, Long Island, NY -- Funeral services were held this morning for Ralph Pugliese Sr., a pioneer in the Long Island wine industry who died Monday at the age of 73.

The Brooklyn-born Pugliese released his first wines in 1986. His early products were made in the basement of his home after he initially planted just two acres of vines. Over the years, acreage and plantings vastly increased and Pugliese Vineyards became one of the iconic Long Island operations.

Three of Pugliese's offspring are involved in the family-owned operation. Peter is the winemaker, Lawrence oversees the vineyards and daughter Domenica Penny runs the tasting room. Ralph Jr., a professional photographer, has his works hanging in the tasting room.

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Wine mentions in 1700s South Carolina

2011-05-19T14:26:00.000-07:00

In the process of doing some genealogical research, my wife came across a letter written on November 12, 1737, by Jacob Gallmann, one of her distant ancestors. It details his experiences in the New World -- and his mention of the place wine had in the South Carolina community in which he and his family lived -- to friends and family back in Switzerland, from which he emigrated. The original is in the state archives in Zurich. (c.f., Special Collection, State Archive of Zurich, SIG.Mse.15 blatt 706-708.) Here is an edited version, with modern-day spellings placed in brackets.

We arrived at Carlistath [Charleston, SC] the 7th day of Hornung [February], the 1735th year. Thus our travel took 11 weeks from London to Carlinstath, but we took a rather round about way ...

We were given an exceedingly beautiful place only half an hour from town. The whole farm is garden-like ground. It is a good four-and-a-half hundred acres in one piece, all black-brown earth, nary a rock, all even land, wheels need no brakes. I have given five acres land to each of the children, but Heini has 150 acres in one piece: Heiri, too has 100 acres in one piece, doesn't know yet how much he will get; Hanss, too has 100 acres in one piece. ...

Carolina lies under the sun which makes it very warm. In summertime it is much warmer than in Switzerland wherefore it is called South Carolina, but in wintertime rather cold but there is no snow and summertime no hail. The land is real good and fertile with all kinds of grain. You fell the trees, then you begin to till and sow corn. The first year you got plenty and good, after that there is wheat, too, then corn again, everything you wish that you can plant. Round the corn you plant peas and beans, melons, watermelons, a great number of all sorts plants. ...

There are many strawberries, many blackberries, very many mulberry trees, peach trees in the woods, also many apple and pear trees, they do not have all of those trees here, some have to be brought in from far awav. Cherries there are too but we don't yet have the trees, also very many grape vines but all which have small berries like juniper berries, black, make a good wine but are not so easy to get, grow way up in the tall trees. ...

And, on the following November 12, Jacob Gallman wrote:

... I cannot fail to send you some good news that we, through God's loving grace are still hale and hearty, thanks be to God, but I also report to you our mourning for our dear late father, because he died on the 20th day of Wine Month [October] and was abed no more than one day, about which I am very sad, and we are deeply sorrowful, and he was much mourned by the Germans and the English, and he has led a praiseworthy life.

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Winemaking at the end of the world

2011-05-17T12:20:00.000-07:00

Bodega NQN emblem/

• From the Baltimore Sun:

Patagonia, the huge swath of land at the southern tip of South America, is known for its rugged mountains and glaciers but an innovative group of winemakers are hoping to add wine to the list.

Santiago Bernasconi, a 38-year-old winemaker at Bodega NQN in Neuquen, Argentina, and his colleagues are making wine on the edge of the earth.

"It makes you feel like you are the last boundary in the winemaking world," Bernasconi, said during a visit to the U.S. to introduce the wines from the newest area in Patagonia to host wineries. "There are only like eight wineries in Patagonia and we all share our experience and work to improve the wines of the whole region."

NQN owns 1,100 hectares (2,718 acres) on a wind-swept plateau. Two hundred hectares are planted with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. With cutting-edge irrigation and fertilization equipment NQN produces wines that are fruit driven and light in style from 11-year-old vines.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Madoff's vaunted wine collection a dud

2011-05-17T10:40:00.000-07:00

Bernie Madoff, disgraced wino

UPDATE (5/19/11): Bernard Madoff's collection of wines and spirits sold for almost twice its estimated value. Proceeds of the sales will go to the disgraced financier's victims. The pre-sale estimate for the 59 lots was $15,000 to $21,000. The collection ended up going for $41,530 at Wednesday's online auction.

NEW YORK -- "He was clearly not a connoisseur, or a serious wine collector."

In that sentence, one expert in the field summed up the collection of disgraced financial schemer Bernie Madoff.

"He had some good Bordeaux," said Elin McCoy, who writes about wine and spirits for Bloomberg News, "but I am surprised that this is all there was. The guy was a gazillionaire."

Madoff, now serving prison time for his bilking of thousands of people of hundreds of millions of dollars, was particularly fond of Bordeaux. But he also had an apparent taste for liquor, as shown by the bottles of Jose Cuervo, Jack Daniels, and Johnnie Walker Black Label in his collection. It also included a batch of 2-ounce bottles of Smirnoff vodka, Bombay Gin and Grand Marnier liqueur, presumably from a hotel mini bar.

Morrell Company Fine Auctions of New York, which is handling the auction scheduled for Wednesday, says on its website:

"We have humbly accepted the opportunity to sell the seized cellar contents of two properties owned by Bernie Madoff on behalf of the United States Marshal's office. The proceeds from the sale of these items will go towards the general recovery effort.

"As artifacts of history they are unique, which is why we have chosen to offer all of the bottles seized, including those which normally wouldn't pass muster and make it into our auction. Some of the bottles are better viewed as conversation pieces rather than valued for their contents, but conversation pieces they are.

"With such an exciting sale it's hard to know where to begin! Take your time to download our catalogue to scroll through the items in traditional format, or use our search feature to locate some of your favorites. Either way we are confident that there will be something for every wine lover.

"This sale is 'internet only' which means you still have two ways to place bids: absentee, or live during the sale on May 18th. Absentee bids can be placed now or anytime before the lots begin being hammered down on the 18th. Search the catalogue and leave absentee bids now or log in on Wednesday May 18th at 10:00am EST to bid live."

Interested in participating in the auction? Just go here for step-by-step instruction.

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Connecticut Wine Festival set for July

2011-05-17T09:40:00.000-07:00

Visitors to last year's tasting event.

FARMINGTON, CT -- The Nutmeg State bumps up against a wine powerhouse, New York State, but it isn't hiding its own wines despite the competition.

The 3rd annual Connecticut Wine Festival is being put together by the Connecticut Vineyard and Winery Association (CVWA) for a July 30-31 run at the Goshen Fairgrounds in Litchfield County.

The event will feature local wines, specialty food vendors, artisanal craft from jewelry to wine racks, and live music.

This will be a good chance to learn about Connecticut wines, which range from Chardonnays to Merlots. As George Motel, owner of Sunset Meadows Vineyards and chairman of the festival, concedes, "Connecticut is not the first place one would think of for wines, yet, its moderate climate and sloping topography in fact is well-suited for growing grapes, and its wineries are attracting a growing legion of fans ... ."

Daily admission is $20 in advance, available at any participating CVWA winery, online or by phone; $25 at the door. Guests under 21 and designated drivers will be admitted for $10. Photo ID with proof of age is required for the wine tasting. Hours for the festival will be noon to 7 p.m. Saturday, July 30, and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday, July 31. More details and online access are available here. Phone: (860) 677-5467.

Proceeds from the festival will support promotion of the CVWA Wine Trail and the state's wine industry. The Trail is a state-approved winery and vineyard awareness program marked with blue signs that identify the location of all participating wineries that welcome visitors.

The Trail members are:

Bishop’s Orchards Winery and Farm Market
Chamard Vineyards
Connecticut Valley Winery
DiGrazia Vineyards
Gouveia Vineyards
Haight-Brown Vineyards
Holmberg Orchards & Winery
Hopkins Vineyard
Jerram Winery
Jonathan Edwards Winery
Jones Winery
Land of Nod Winery
Maugle Sierra Vineyards
McLaughlin Vineyards
Miranda Vineyard
Paradise Hills Vineyard
Priam Vineyards
Rosedale Farms & Vineyard
Saltwater Farm Vineyard
Sharpe Hill Vineyard
Stonington Vineyards
Sunset Meadow Vineyards
Taylor Brooke Winery
White Silo Winery

Go here to browse all wine trails in the U.S.

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Crossing the broder for food and wine

2011-05-17T09:22:00.000-07:00

NIAGARA FALLS, Ontario -- Most Americans think only of the U.S. side of this natural wonder, but the Canadian side has its attractions as well.

The long weekend of May 27-29 will be in the spotlight at the Scotiabank Convention Centre where the Niagara Food & Wine Expo will unveil hundreds of examples of wine, beer and spirits from around the globe along with a wide range of complementary food products.

The Tutored Tastings program from Toronto has developed four educational classes to be held just outside the Expo in a classroom-style setting: "Learn to Taste Like a Pro," "A Taste of Niagara," "Vines Wine Camp" and a tasting of InterVin’s top medalists hosted by the Head Judge himself.

Details on the exhibitors, classes, tastings and other events are available online.

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VA to NY, Texas: Thanks for the cutbacks

2011-05-11T16:41:00.000-07:00

Planting vines at the VA Executive Mansion.

Just as the New York State wine industry is buffeted by aid reductions and a lack of ongoing commitment to it by state government, the ever-growing Texas wine industry now is facing severe reductions in state governmental support.

In a story on that topic in today's San Antonio Express-News -- which itself ceased sponsoring its annual international wine competition when its revenues flattened three years ago, wine and spirits columnist Jennifer McInnis wrote:

"Not everyone is upset about the impending [Texas] budget cuts. Virginia Secretary of Agriculture and Forestry Todd Haymore sees opportunity and openly mocked Texas and New York for cutting their budgets.

" 'It doesn't make any sense to us, but we're not arguing,' he says. 'If they want to take those steps backwards, that's all for the better of Virginia. We are committed to growing this industry'."

The attitude is typical of Virginia governmental attitude toward its well-regarded wine industry. One recent example:

Planting of 10 Chambourcin grapevines in the garden of the Executive Mansion in Richmond during Wine Week 2011 followed the path of the original "Charter of Jamestown’s Acte 12" in 1619 that required every male settler to plant at least 10 grape vines. The vines were planted with the intent that they will be flourishing for the Executive Mansion’s bicentennial in 2013.

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Consumer Reports' latest take on rosés

2011-05-10T15:38:00.000-07:00

• From Consumer Reports.org

By Paul Reynolds

Pink wine is increasingly neither sweet nor still, necessarily. That's demonstrated by our new ratings of rosé and sparkling rosé (available to subscribers) and by the rosés I tasted at "Toast of the Town," a wine show I attended last week in New York.

Rosé has gone a long way toward shedding its association with blush, the sweet, generally simple pink wine that was once all the rage. All but one of the 10 still rosés in our ratings were deemed to be dry in style by our wine experts; the one exception was on the line between dry and off-dry and was a recommended bottle.

Our experts detected a wide range of flavors in the wines, including those of fruit salad and bell pepper. They also recommended foods to pair with them, including steamed mussels, chicken tacos, and prosciutto wrapped in melon.

Bottles from France, a rosé powerhouse, predominate in our ratings of still rosé, yet some intriguing rosés on the show floor hailed from some up-and-coming countries for the varietal.

New round for cork vs. synthetic stoppers

2011-05-10T15:26:00.000-07:00

NEW YORK -- The debate over the worthiness of cork vs. plastic or some other synthetic matter for wine bottle stoppers has taken a turn for the natural.

The Sommelier Society of America, the nation's oldest professional wine teaching institution, and 100% Cork, the campaign to educate the public about the environmental, economic and social benefits of natural cork, today jointly announced that the Society has endorsed natural cork as the preferred closure for wine.

"As a sommelier, I know there is nothing that can replace the pleasure of hearing the iconic 'pop' when you extract a natural cork from a bottle of wine," said Robert Moody, the Society's chairman. "Natural cork plays such a distinctive role in the preservation and presentation of wine. It is an integral part of the romance of wine, and it remains the gold standard for wine closures."

Moody said natural cork "allows just the right amount of oxygen to mix with the wine over time so that it ages properly, and it provides a durable and reliable seal. The environmental advantage that natural cork has over alternative closures, especially when it comes to sustainability, is the icing on the cake."

The 100% Cork campaign is funded by the Portuguese Cork Association and the Cork Quality Council, based in California. Both industry organizations obviously benefit from the use of cork.

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Shipwrecked champagne to be auctioned off

2011-05-04T12:35:00.000-07:00

The moment of discovery. (Aland government photo)

• From Reuters

Two bottles of champagne, thought to be about 200 years old and part of a cache of 150 salvaged from a 19th Century shipwreck in the Baltic Sea, will be auctioned in Finland on June 3.

The cache, which belongs to the government of Aland, an archipelago in the Baltic, includes a bottle from the house of Veuve Clicquot and another from Juglar, which closed its doors in the early 19th Century. ...

When the first bottle was recovered from the sunken two-masted schooner dating from about 1780-1830, Swedish champagne writer Richard Juhlin estimated it would fetch about 500,000 Swedish krona.

"We didn't know if it was going to be anything drinkable," Ella Grussner Cromwell-Morgan, a sommelier who lives on Aland, said in a telephone interview about the first bottle.

Wine experts estimated from the corks and the hand-blown bottles that the wines were produced between 1811 and 1831.

"Most likely they're older than that, because in those days they kept wine stored for 10-12 years in barrels before they shipped it," said Christian Erikson, the diver who discovered the cache.

Erikson, a friend of Cromwell-Morgan, brought the first bottle to her.

"It tasted sweet, but it had that really crisp acidity that made it so balanced," she said about the bottle from Juglar. "And, of course, it had all those secondary flavours -- the leather, the tobacco, the dried fruits -- that are associated with older wines. And there was the definite impression of oak." ...

Wine experts suggest the Baltic's steady 40°F (4°C) temperature, the darkness and lying undisturbed 150 feet (50 meters) under water helped in the wines aging process. ...

The government intends to use the auction's proceeds to fund maritime archaeological work and benefit the Baltic Sea environment.

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Maryland wineries list hits 50

2011-05-04T11:26:00.000-07:00

ROHRERSVILLE, MD -- The state's newest wine grape operation has opened near this Washington County town.

Co-owners Dave Collins and Randy and Jennifer Thompson on Tuesday announced that 13 varieties of grapes have been planted on 22 acres at Big Cork Vineyards.

Plans include construction of a winery within two years and a tasting room within three. Production targets include 5,000 cases of wine annually and a full- and part-time staff of more than 20.

Maryland now has 50 licensed wineries. The industry should be strengthened when Governor Martin O'Malley signs, as expected, a pending bill that would allow direct shipment of wine to and from Maryland.

“The addition of Big Cork Vineyards and Dave Collins to Maryland’s industry brings new recognition of Maryland’s wine and grape potential. Collins’ expertise will help chart a new course for Maryland,” said Kevin Atticks, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association (MWA), an industry trade organization.

Collins was vineyard manager and winemaker at Breaux Vineyards in Virginia.

Joseph Fiola, viniculture and small fruit specialist at the University of Maryland, said, "The Pleasant Valley [of Washington County] is one of the top regions in the state to plant a vineyard. It has highly desirable soils and good elevation to promote warm days and cool nights. But the constant wind conditions and limited precipitation make it even more amenable to quality grape production."

Big Cork will cultivate seven red grape varieties -- Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Syrah -- and six whites -- Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Orange, Muscat Canelli, Chardonnay and Vidal.

[Go here for information on wine trails in Maryland.]

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English sparklers an emerging treat

2011-04-25T11:53:00.000-07:00

Hush Heath Estate, which produces Balfour wine.

• From The New York Times

By Eric Asimov

It was as gently gorgeous as any wine region I’ve visited, although looking around you would never know it was a wine region at all. Verdant pastures dotted with cattle and sheep, interspersed with bursting bluebells and fields of rapeseed shimmering with yellow flowers all spoke colorfully of an economy dependent for centuries on the annual rhythms of agriculture. But the landscape said little of wine.

This was southern England, which I visited last week for a piece on English sparkling wine. Very few Americans are aware that England makes any wine at all, much less good sparkling wine, and, looking around, they won’t see much to convince them otherwise.

Unlike more historic wine regions, you are not surrounded by a monoculture of grapes in the countryside. But here and there, in hidden valleys and secluded glens, vineyards of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier on south-facing slopes offer evidence of a new optimism that England can make world-class sparkling wine.

That optimism is not at all unfounded. English sparkling wines may not yet rival very good Champagnes, but the best versions are already surprisingly good. I was especially taken with the elegant blanc de blancs from Ridgeview Estate in East Sussex and Gusbourne Estate in Kent. Hush Heath Estate’s Balfour Brut Rosé is quite good.

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