All-woman judging panel a first

Several years ago I was invited to be a judge at a fledgling international wine competition. At its conclusion, I was asked for suggestions for the next year.

"Get some women as judges," I said. "Women make up a huge part of the wine consumers. Plus, they're known for having good palates and senses of smell."

In succeeding years, I've noticed a slight increase in the number of women judging in that event and other competitions, but it still is largely a man's world.

That's what makes the National Women's Wine Competition just concluded in Santa Rosa, CA, so interesting. All the judges were women.

One who has emerged as a spokesperson for increasing female involvement in wine competition and decision-making is Leslie Sbrocco (seen here), author of “Wine for Women.” She told the Associated Press she does not think there’s a “male” or “female” palate.

“It’s not about the female palate being different. It’s about the female perspective being different,” she said.

The competition had the slogan “Wine Women Want,” and had a category of entries from women winemakers, Overall, more than 1,800 entries came in. Organizers said they believe this was the first contest in the U.S. judged by an all-woman panel. An international competition to be judged by women is planned for next month in Monaco.

Co-chairs of the competition were Margrit Mondavi, long active in the California wine world and wife of legendary vintner Robert Mondavi, and Kathryn Hall, a Napa Valley vintner who once was U.S. ambassador to Austria.

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Idaho gets its first AVA

Click on maps to enlarge

Wine historians will circle April 9 on their calendars. That's the day Idaho gets its first American Viticultural Area, or AVA.

The U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has designated Idaho's Snake River Valley as an AVA. That distinction brands the southern portion of the state, extending along the Snake River east to west from the Twin Falls area into Oregon as the 236th AVA in the nation.

"There's a lot of different soil types, there's different micro climates and a lot of opportunities for growing a lot of different types of grapes," said Brad Pintler, president of the Idaho Grape Growers and Wine Producers Commission, and general manager of Sawtooth Winery.

"This AVA is over 5.3 million acres and right now we have a little under 2,000 planted, so there's a lot of valleys that have a huge amount of potential and I think we will see a lot of new investors and a lot of new wineries," he added.

Click here to get information on Idaho wineries.

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Wine convenience foiled

Single-serving unbreakable wine containers are not new. But an English company has a new twist on the idea that is.

Pre-filled, foil-sealed plastic wine glasses are aimed at the summer activities market after getting a good reception from caterers who handle a lot of outdoor events. They were developed by Al Fresco Wines and are being marketed under the name Tulipa.

The glasses, to go on sale in June in UK stores, will be filled with California rosé or Australian shiraz or chardonnay. Twin packs will go for a retail price of about US$7 a pair.

As noted, other single-serving solutions already are on the market. Woodbridge, for example, sells mini wine packages (seen here) with 6.5-ounce drinks targeted for picnics, dinners for two or similar events. They're available in five varietals, which can be mixed and matched.

Beringer is another example, marketing its Stone Cellars durable plastic mini-bottles of chardonnay, pinot grigio, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Four-packs cost about $8.

And Fetzer Vineyards Valley Oaks merlot, chardonnay and white zinfandel are sold in mini bottles as well as Virgin Vines, a joint venture with British tycoon Richard Branson.

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Irish pride more tainted than tinted

Every few years I get so fed up with the idiocy of St. Patrick's Day that I can't contain myself. It's boiled over again in the face of the annual avalanche of plastic shamrocks, green beer and fools on TV and in print adding an "O" to their names and promising pots of gold to anyone who would listen to their sales pitch.

Just a few days ago I heard a talk-radio caller saying someone was "as drunk as an Irishman." Some cops still called the police van a Paddy wagon. It is difficult not to trip over all the plastic leprechauns and shillelaghs laying around taverns, stores and restaurants. A lot of politicians run around with name tags that stuck an O' in front of their names and make the usual gratuitous remarks about loving the folks from the Auld Sod.

In this ethnically, religiously and racially diverse nation we have been sensitized to the effects of stereotyping people. We understand when African-Americans and Italian-Americans, Polish-Americans and Jewish-Americans, Arab-Americans and Mexican-Americans -- perhaps even Martian-Americans -- become angry at hurtful, demeaning jokes and remarks about their heritage. But we seem, as a society, incapable of understanding why some Irish-Americans "get their Irish up" when they're regarded as fair game for insults.

Even in Ireland itself, what once was a quiet day of religious contemplation has disintegrated into a booze-fueled mess catering to tourists. Irish authorities last year reported more than 700 violence- and alcohol-connected arrests on St. Patrick's Day.

It is baffling enough that it's happening there. Perhaps it is because the Irish also are widely regarded as amiable folks, the kind of people who take little ethnic slurs as good-natured fun. But in the U.S. it seems seldom remembered the slurs are a nasty holdover from a time when they had their turn at the bottom of American society -- being denied education, being relegated to back-breaking jobs like digging the barge canals, driving the railroad spikes, clawing coal from the bowels of the earth miles down where the air was foul and the life expectancy short.

A time when signs saying "No Irish Need Apply" were commonplace on rooming houses, business places and restaurants. A time when the Irish were jammed into ghettoes later occupied by succeeding generations of immigrant groups; when the "Paddy wagon" hauled a lot of them off to jail on the slightest pretext. A time when the likes of immigrant Kate Mullaney had to risk life and limb to get Troy's laundry workers a modicum of respect and pay and, in the process, formed the first female labor union.

Some say the ideal would be for Americans of all backgrounds to forget about roots and become generic, non-hyphenated Americans. That may be desirable in the sense it could foster a togetherness now missing in our national dialogue, but it never will happen.

People do, to some extent, like to be different. Maintaining ties with one's heritage makes them so, and keeps alive the rich inheritance from that culture that adds to the marvelous American stew.

But, isn't there a classy way to do it?

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Sake rebounding on tradition

If you know the difference between junmai and ethyl alcohol sake, this story in the Japan Times will interest you.

In the face of sagging sales of the traditional Japanese wine, master brewer Hanako Kudo has brought her family's sake brewery back to life by returning to the traditional rice-based recipe. She and her father, Mikio (seen at work), make traditional "junmai" at the family business, Maizuru Shuzo Co., in Yokote, an operation that has been in existence since 1918.

The big difference between their Tabito brand sake and what most competitors make is that she adds no ethyl alcohol to the mix. That additive was something that came into vogue during and after World War II because of a rice shortage, and even when times improved the practice continued because it was conducive to making larger batches.

Overall, sake sales have dipped as consumers in Japan and abroad developed a preference for other alcoholic drinks, including beer, wine and "shochu" distilled spirits. However, the junmai niche held strong. Thus, the Tabito rebound.

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NY may get a second wine center

When the New York Wine & Culinary Center opened on the shore of Canandaigua Lake last summer, it was to mixed emotions.

Most people in the Finger Lakes area were happy the tourism and educational facility was there, promoted as a "gateway" to New York's wine country.

Some people in other parts of the state pointed out that a rural, western New York "gateway" might have been a bit misleading, considering how many wineries are located north of New York City in the Hudson Vallery and east of the city on Long Island.

Now, some of that irritation may be soothed with word that the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, headquarted in the Canandaigua facility, has received a $44,500 Empire State Development Grant to explore the feasibility of building a similar wine and culinary center in the Hudson Valley although “I don’t think it would be as elaborate as the one here,” said Jim Trezise, Wine & Grape Foundation president.

Phyllis Feder, co-owner of Clinton Vineyards in Dutchess County with husband Ben (both shown here), is head of the steering committee for the project. She says that once a firm is contracted, the study should be completed in about 90 days.

“It is a project that holds great potential, especially since we are so close to the New York City market,” she said.

The working title of the project is the Hudson River Valley Wine & Culinary Center.

ON THE WEB
• Dutchess Wine Trail
• Shawangunk Wine Trail
• Hamptons Wineries
• North Fork Wine Trail

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Oxford vs. Cambridge: Serious stuff

Team captains: Cambridge's Aidan Craig (left) and Oxford's Janet Scott.

Oxford vs. Cambridge.

These old and honorable English universities have long been in competition on many playing fields -- academic, athletic and otherwise. Now, their respective wine societies want to have wine tasting ratified as an official sport.

The universities have had a wine tasting contest every year since 1953. Cambridge won the event in February, but Oxford holds a 34-20 edge. Pol Roger Champagne has been the event sponsor since 1992.

While the event may seem lighthearted, it actually is a serious endeavor. As reported in Decanter magazine, "Many team members go on to successful careers in the wine trade. ... Oxford trains six days a week under the auspices of a senior member of the Oxford University Wine Circle."

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Hudson Valley awards go to extremes

Winners in the 2007 Hudson Valley Commercial Wine Competition ranged from the nation's oldest winery to one of its newest.

The competition, sponsored by the Hudson Valley Wine & Grape Association, was for New York wineries in an area ranging from south of Albany, the state capital, to the outskirts of New York City, flanking the Hudson River.

The award for "Best White Wine" went to Brotherhood Winery's 2005 Seyval Blanc. Brotherhood, located in Washingtonville in the foothills of the Catskill Mountains, was founded in 1839.

The Cornell Cup for "Best Hudson River Region (AVA) Wine" went to Brookview Station Winery's 2006 Semi-Dry Apple Wine. Brookview is located at Goold Orchards in Castleton, just southeast of Albany. Although the orchard complex has been in the family for several generations, the fruit winery is a new enterprise.

The Best of Show Cup went to Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery's American Fruits Cherry (Sour) Liquor, and Best Red Table Wine went to Oak Summit Vineyard's 2005 Pinot Noir.

These awards and other gold, silver and bronze medals will be awarded at a March 24 awards dinner at Stoutridge Vineyards in Marlboro.

The gold medalists by category:

Sparkling Grape: Baldwin Vineyards, Memories.

Chardonnay: Millbrook Vineyard & Winery, 2005 Castle Hill Chardonnay.

White Hybrid: Brotherhood Winery, 2005 Seyval Blanc.

White/Riesling & Flowery: Adair Vineyards, 2006 Cayuga White.

Pinot Noir: Oak Summit Vineyard, 2005 Pinot Noir.

Cabernet Franc: Millbrook Vineyards & Winery, 2005 Proprietor's Special Reserve.

Merlot: Whitecliff Vineyard & Winery, 2005 Merlot.

Red Hybrid: Benmarl, 2005 Baco Noir.

Cabernet Sauvignon: Whitecliff Vineyard & Winery, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sparkling Fruit: Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery, Doc's Hard Apple Cider.

Apple/Pear: Brookview, Semi-Dry Apple.

Other Fruit: Adair Vineyard, 2006 Peach.

Dessert Non-Fortified: Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery, American Fruits Cherry (Sour) Liquor.

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Is the drought ending in Ohio?

While it is true that there is at least one winery in every state of the Union, they're not all treated with the same acceptance in their own geography.

Take Ohio, for example. Despite having an annual state fair as virtually all states do, it has in the past shunned showcasing any of Ohio's wines as well as its breweries, which is unlike other states' events where local wines and beers are sold.

This year, according to a report in the Columbus Dispatch, the oversight board of the Ohio State Fair has asked staff for proposals on serving Ohio-made beer and wine at this year's event.

Then-Gov. Bob Taft didn't support the wine and beer idea -- his wife, Hope, was involved in several causes to fight alcohol-related problems, so the Ohio Expositions Commission last considered beer and wine sales in 2003.

Now that Ted Strickland is the governor, the commission is hoping such a proposal will be better received as a way to increase the fair's revenue potential and boost marketing for the state's breweries and wineries, according to commission spokeswoman Christina Minier.

"Gov. Strickland will review all proposals with an eye toward tradition and protecting a family friendly environment at the fair," spokesman Keith Dailey told the newspaper.

Click here to check out Ohio's wine trails.

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New drink from an elderflower

• This entry actually can be found in my "Spirits Notebook" section since the final product is a liqueur. However, as is the case with these hybridized processes that involve more than one sort of the creative process and, thus, cross over the lines between wines, spirits and brews, I like to keep readers of all sorts up to speed. In this instance, we're talking a cross between an eau de vie and a floral liquor.

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The Russian (sort of) is coming!

If the snow storms in western New York haven't daunted your enthusiasm, you may want to look into visiting McGregor Vineyards in Dundee, NY, on Keuka Lake, the weekend of March 3-4.

That's when the annual release of McGregor's acclaimed Black Russian Red will be celebrated. The limited-quantity 2004 vintage -- very limited, given that there were only about 150 cases -- will be poured along with barrel samples of the 2005 vintage. Futures for the latter are being sold. Sean McElroy, McGregor's assistant manager, told me there will be about 300 cases of the 2005.

A special menu will be made available both days. Tickets are $10 each or $18 per couple for the event. Reservations are not required, but are suggested by calling (800) 272-0192 or going online.

The iconic Black Russian Red, the only such blend made in America, is an unusual joining of two European grape varietals: Sereksiya Charni, traditionally grown in Romania but grown exclusively in the U.S. by McGregor, and Saperavi, an ancient wine grape originating in the republic of Georgia.

The hand-harvested grapes are fermented and aged for nearly two years in American oak barrels, resulting in a complex dry red, with notes of numerous berries, black cherry and the oak, tannic and dry.

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Drinks and a movie

As the 79th annual Academy Awards presentations close in on us this weekend, one spirits company after another has been sending out suggestions for cocktails tied to (a) a movie theme, and (b) increasing their profits.

Nothing wrong with that, of course, but I'm an old-fashioned guy who would rather pay attention to cocktail classics as presented in the films themselves. It seems to go over rather well with the opposite sex, especially for those of us normally bereft of romantic imagination -- the sort of men who break out in a cold sweat lest our ideas be compared to those of other men and found wanting.

Relax, and visit your favorite public library or video store for inspiration. Avoid such bar-centric flicks as 1988's "Cocktail" and 2000's "Coyote Ugly." They're all flash and no soul. And, even if they're funny drinkers like Owen Wilson and Vince Vaughan in 2005's "Wedding Crashers" or vaguely instructive like Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church in 2004's wine country epic "Sideways," all you learn there is that overindulgence makes asses of people you might otherwise like.

Likewise, avoid such cinematic drunks as those portrayed in classics from Ray Milland in 1945's "The Lost Weekend" to Jack Lemmon in 1962's "Days of Wine and Roses" to Nicholas Cage in 1995's "Leaving Las Vegas." Lots of soul, zero romance.

Rather, I'm suggesting a cozy, dimly lit setting at home, with a few light hors d'oeuvres, a tape or disc of a classic romantic movie with a definite cocktail component, and drinks appropriate to the film. After all, cocktails, wine and movies have long had a companionable relationship. Even 1977's "Star Wars" had a great bar scene.

At one time, classy bars and cocktail parties were used as part of the courtship ritual, both on-screen and off.

When asked for a drink to accompany a romantic film, most people I surveyed immediately said, "Champagne, of course." Given the popularity of the bubbly, whether in the hand of a suave Robert Redford in 1974's "The Great Gatsby" or of a tipsy Katharine Hepburn in 1940's "The Philadelphia Story," such a mind-set is understandable.

However, nothing on film rivals the martini for romance, elegance and mystery. It was the favorite drink of sophisticated 1930s productions in which everyone was immaculately groomed and impeccably dressed even if they were of meager financial means.

William Powell and Myrna Loy as Nick and Nora Charles in the "Thin Man" classic 1930s-'40s film series helped make champagne and especially the the cocktail a religion of sorts, often having as much fun creating as consuming drinks.

"The important thing is the rhythm. Always have rhythm in your shaking," private eye Nick Charles instructed wealthy wife Nora. "Now, a Manhattan you shake to fox trot time, a Bronx to two-step time, a dry martini you always shake to waltz time."

Of course, this was long before Powell helped the aforementioned Jack Lemmon mix up an atrocious fake Scotch potion in the immortal 1955 Navy film "Mr. Roberts"

That reluctant romantic Humphrey Bogart not only gazed soulfully at his lady love over the rim of a cocktail glass in 1942's immortal "Casablanca," he even owned the place that dispensed adult beverages to Ingrid Bergman and other glamour pusses. It was a place where champagne cocktails abounded along with bourbon, brandy and "a fine French wine." Star-crossed and sad, but romantic nonetheless.

If one is into romance of the guns-gadgets-tuxes genre, there is always that old reliable, James Bond. Finding the proper drink to go with a 007 flick isn't that difficult. Bond was just as specific about his beverages as he was about the caliber of his guns and his girls, as shown in this photo with Sean Connery and Shirley Eaton from the 1964 film "Goldfinger."

Most of us remember Bond's signature vodka martini in "Dr. No" - and the instruction that it was to be "shaken, not stirred." In the same 1962 film, he turns up his nose at a 1955 Dom Perignon champagne, snootily telling his villainous host, "I prefer the '53 myself."

In 1964's "Goldfinger," Bond says of a brandy he is served, "I'd say it was a 30 year old Fine indifferently blended, with an overdose of Bon Bois."

You may get extra points from your companion of the evening by casually letting it drop that because brandies sometimes are concocted from grapes from different areas of France's Cognac region, those from less well-regarded areas as Fine (or Fins) Bois and Bon Bois are inferior. Of course, you run the risk of being called a pretentious jerk. Your choice.

As the old saying goes, love is where you find it.

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Grape expectactions

• This entry actually can be found in my "Spirits Notebook"section since the final product is a cognac. However, as is the case with these hybridized processes that involve more than one sort of the creative process and, thus, cross over the lines between wines, spirits and brews, I like to keep readers of all sorts up to speed. In this instance, we're talking what began as grapes, became an eau de vie and a fine cognac.

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Virginia wineries may get legislative help

Christopher B. Saxman (right), a Republican member of the Virginia General Assembly, has proposed a bill that would give Virginia wineries the right to distribute up to 3,000 cases of wine a year directly to retailers.

A U.S. District Court ruling in 2005 made use of distributors mandatory for wine businesses. The court held that since wineries from other states were required to use distributing companies to place their products in the Virginia market, if Virginia wineries did not follow the same practice they would be guilty of discrimination.

Ann Heidig, president of the Virginia Wineries Association, said that decision has caused wineries in the state to lose significant amounts of profit. In turn, consumers are given fewer wine choices -- particularly from among the Virginia producers -- and higher costs.

Whether Saxman's bill will have traction is up for debate. Literally.

Fellow Republical legislator Terry Kilgore said he is in agreement with the basics of the proposal, but wants to hear discussion on the committee floor before making a decision.

One amendment already proposed to the bill would use a state-established corporation as mediator, allowing the wineries to distribute their own producst, but the state would be the wholesale license holder. Then, in addition to providing wholesale wine services to wineries, the corporation would be responsible for annual reports of business activities at the wineries.

Go here for a guide to Virginia's four wine trails.

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A voice in your head

We've all heard a little voice telling us to be careful not to drink too much. Most of the time we didn't know where it was coming from. If you're a guy and find it happening in New Mexico, there's a simple explanation.

The state has shelled out $10,500 for 500 talking deodorizer cakes to be used in men's room urinals in bars and restaurants.

Recorded messages embedded in the sanitary supply tell the patron, in a woman's voice, "Hey, big guy. Having a few drinks? Think you had one too many? Then it's time to call a cab or call a sober friend for a ride home. Remember, your future is in your hand."

The program is an offshoot of the sort of thing used in anti-drug capaigns in various parts of New York, Colorado, Pennsylvania and in Australia.

New Mexico had 143 alcohol-related deaths in 2005, the country's eighth-highest rate, and men have 78% of all drunk-driving related convictions in the state.

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San Antonio test awards 32 golds

Photo by William M. Dowd

SAN ANTONIO, TX -- The final medal result are in for the 7th annual San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition, which I helped judge last month at the Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Spa.

The 39 judges awarded 350 medals overall, 32 gold, 122 silver and 196 bronze. Not all categories had entries that rose to the gold level. The "Chardonnay, Under $15" category turned out six gold medalists, largest from any one category.

Here are all 32 gold-medal winners:

• Cabernet Sauvignon Blends: Meritus Texas Hill Country Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003. $39.99.

• Cabernet Sauvignon, Over $15: Kunde Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, CA, 2003, $18.99; Mt. Veeder Cabernet, California, 2003, $35; Robert Mondavi Napa Reserve Cabernet, Napa, CA, 2003, $120; Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon , Sonoma, CA, 2002, $34.99.

• Chardonnay, Under $15: Clos du Bois Chardonnay, North Coast, CA, 2005, $11.99; Irony Chardonnay, California, 2004, $14; J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco, CA, 2005, $11.99; Napa Ridge Napa Valley Chardonnay, Napa, CA, 2004, $12.99; Pheasant Ridge Chardonnay, Texas High Plains, 2004, $14; Sister Creek Chardonnay, Texas High Plains, 2005, $14.95.

• Italian Appellation Blends: Dievole Reserve Chianti Classico, Italy, 2001, $18.

• Merlot, Over $15: Napa Ridge Reserve Merlot, Napa, CA, 2003, $19.99.

• Other Whites, Dry: Adelasia Cortese, Piedmonte, 2004, $7.99; Haak Blanc du Bois (dry), Texas, 2005, $12.95; Hogue Fume Blanc FF, Washington, 2005, $11; Llano Estacado Signature White, Texas, 2005, $8.99.

• Pinot Grigio: Trinity Oaks Pinot Grigio, California, 2005, $6.95.

• Pinot Noir: Sebastiani Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2005, $18.

• Porto, Other: Ficklin 10 Yr Tawny Port, Madera, Non Vintage, $25.99.

• Rhone Blends: Cline Red Truck blend, California, 2004, $9.

• Riesling: Monchhof Riesling Kabinett, Urziger Wurzgarten, Germany, 2005, $15.

• Sauvignon Blanc: Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca, Chile, 2005, $19.99; Whitehall Sauvignon Blanc, California, 2005, $15.

• Spanish Varietals: Tapena Garnacha Red Blend, Tierra de Castilla, Spain, 2005, $8.99.

• Super Tuscan Blends: Viviano, Texas, 2003, $33.99.

• Syrah/Shiraz: d'Arenberg 'The Footbolt' Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2004, $19; St. Hallet Faith Shiraz, Barossa, Australia, 2004, $16.99; Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz, Southeastern Australia, 2005, $9.99.

• White Dessert: Konzelmann Ice Wine, Ontario, 2004, $49.99.

• Zinfandel, Over: Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinafandel, Sonoma County, 2004, $16.99; Wild Oak Zinfandel, California, 2004, $25.

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Wineries, 'dineries' team up in Pa. Dutch country

A "sneak preview" of sorts will be offered during March at the 11 wineries of Pennsylvania's UnCork York Wine Trail as part of their 2nd annual Tour de Tanks.

Visitors will be able to sample wines taken straight from the barrel or tank at the wineries in the Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Tickets, available online or at participating wineries for the event scheduled for each Saturday-Sunday in March, are $15 with one ticket good at all participating wineries for all five weekends. Ticket holders get a 10% discount on wine purchases.

One difficulty with touring any wine country with which you're not familiar is finding decent dining. The Tour de Tanks has set up 11 "dineries" to go with the 11 wineries, offering all-inclusive menus every Friday through Sunday in March for $30 per person. The full list is available online. It looks like a fairly convenient way to visit what is a rambling tour area covering parts of three contiguous counties -- Adams, York and Dauphin -- in the Harrisburg / Lancaster / York / Getysburg region of south central Pennsylvania.

Participating wineries are, alphabetically, Adams County Winery, Allegro Vineyards, Four Springs Winery, Fox Ridge Vineyard & Winery, Glen Mere Winery, Marburg Estate Winery, Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery, Naylor Wine Cellars, Nissley Vineyards, Seven Valleys Vineyard & Winery and West Hanover Winery.

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Global glut could help U.S. consumers

Careful shopping should be netting U.S. consumers some very good buys in Australian and South African wines, courtesy of the worldwide grape and wine glut that is forcing price reductions.

South Africa's wine companies, in the midst of what they say is "economic disaster," are offering farmers up to US$124 a ton not to harvest contracted grapes next year. In addition, many wine grape farms are up for sales, particularly in the famed Stellenbosch area where more than 50 are on the block because of dwindling profits. And, they're often being purchased for non-agricultural use.

Australian wine producers have been suffering from a glut of product for several years, forcing price cuts and even drastic moves such as destroying grapes to cut down on supply.

Curiously, however, in the midst of this problem period Australia is importing more wine than ever from neighboring New Zealand. According to the latest New Zealand reports, export wine sales for the past year topped US$411.3 million, doubling earnings of 2004. Overall volume of wine exported in 2006 was up 13% over the previous year. While exports to both the U.S. and UK were up more than 20% over the previous year, sales in Australia increased by almost 50%.

In South Africa, farmers are seeing prices of red grapes falling from $1,300 a ton to as little as $206.

Unlike in other areas where strong domestic consumption helps the native wine industries, South Africans historically have a comparatively small consumption rate.

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A wine taken to another level

Photo by William M. Dowd

LAS VEGAS -- As we were assembling for a private dinner over the weekend, I was chatting with Frank Du, a Chinese-American journalist who works for a Chinese-language newspaper in Los Angeles.

Seine Kim, a Korean-American representative of The Thomas Collective, a New York public relations firm, walked into the room. Du smoothly switched to Korean to greet her, explaining to me that although Mandarin is his native tongue, he had lived in Korea and picked up the language there.

The marketing lady -- whose name was taken from the French river her parents had seen before her birth -- exchanged a few pleasantries in Korean with Du, then switched into perfect English with me. Although raised in Seoul, she explained, she had been born in Ithaca, N.Y., and wanted to move back to the U.S., so she studied English. In Beijing, China. Her time as a Manhattan resident has buffed away any residual accent.

The sound of French and French-accented English also wafted through the room as our hosts from the Martell House of Cognac arrived.

The mix emphasized the human interplay in a global economy that is continually erasing borders and making producers think beyond historic boundaries.

Martell is known for a long line of cognacs, but producers cannot rest on their laurels in the highly competitive field. Thus, the company was timing the U.S. debut of its Creation Grand Extra Cognac for the Lunar New Year (the Year of the Pig on the Chinese calendar, although celebrated all across Asia) to try enhancing its already strong image in Asian communities throughout the U.S.

A little background. Cognac is a brandy, a grape-based product -- an "eaux-de-vie'' fermented like wine then twice distilled. By French law, supported by the World Trade Organization, the spirit can originate only in the town of Cognac and six surrounding viticultural areas.

There is more than one kind of cognac due to the variety of soils in the region. The grapes used are from several white wine varieties, principally the Ugni Blanc, known elsewhere as the Trebbiano grape. Cognacs must be aged in wood at least two years. Most producers use Limousin oak; Martell prefers the more aromatic Troncais oak.

Any number of cognac labels may be familiar to Americans, such as Hennessey, Remy Martin, Courvoisier, Camus and Delamaine, but Martell is the oldest existing one, founded in 1715 by Jean Martell.

Photo by William M. Dowd

Jacques Menier (seen here), Asia Pacific sales director, was the main presenter of the new Creation Grand Extra, representing cellar master Bruno Lemoine. He guided participants through a special menu prepared at the Wing Lei restaurant in the Wynn Las Vegas hotel to describe how various cognacs can be paired with foods just as is done with wines. Not a bad direction to take since the U.S. is the world's largest consumer of cognac.

For our light starters -- lobster wonton soup, pork pot stickers and spring rolls -- the Martell Noblige worked well, with its light consistency and notes of pear, citrus and definite vanilla from a younger wood. The very popular Cordon Bleu -- perfumey from a flowery soil that speaks of violets and bits of citrus and walnut -- worked nicely with a wider variety, a diver scallop with jalapeno, cilantro and ponzu vinaigrette, Pacific cod with a fricassee of mussels, clams and Chinese sausage, and even a Sichuan beef filet with corn, bell pepper, water chestnut and rice noodle. X-O worked well with a dessert sampler tray ranging from light fruit sorbets to ganache-stuffed chocolate cake, once I was able to coax out its reluctant dried-fruit hints of apricot and plum.

The finale was the Creation Grand Extra. It's a soft, almost buttery, open distillation with an instant "montant,'' the first fragrance released from cognac. Definite notes of cedar and spice make this an immediately pleasing product.

However, my preference in the Martel line remains the Cordon Bleu, a "gouleyant'' cognac, meaning its body is fresh and light despite aging and, thus, easily enjoyed.

For what it's worth, cellar master Lemoine says his favorite drink is Cordon Bleu on the rocks.

Creation Grand Extra, with a suggested retail price of $299 for a 750-milliliter bottle, will be on the American market in May.

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Sales sweepstakes point upward

Fast Track Brands, Established Growth Brands, Rising Stars and Comeback Brands.

Not exactly cocktail party topics, unless you're in the hospitality business. Then, they're a big deal.

Each year the Adams Beverage Group, the Connecticut company that tracks the beverage alcohol industry and publishes Cheers, Beverage Dynamics and StateWays magazines, analyzes domestic sales in those categories. Here's how Adams breaks them down:

• Fast Track Brands: Those with sales exceeding 100,000 9-liter cases in 2006 and double-digit growth over the past four years.

• Established Growth Brands: Those operating from huge sales bases, with more modest percentage gains, although total volume can be very high.

• Rising Stars: Those showing significant growth but on the market for less than five full years.

• Comeback Brands: Those that saw a sales decline two years ago but rebounded last year.

Adams, which will announce the full awards in the March issues of its magazines, provided this advance look at the awards:

"Among those winning Adams Growth Brand spirits awards, Diageo took top honors with seven (led by Captain Morgan Rum and Johnnie Walker Black Label Scotch), Pernod-Ricard USA received four (led by Stolichnaya Vodka), and Bacardi took four (led by Bacardi Rum's dominance and Grey Goose Vodka's continued explosive growth). Six other companies (Barton Brands, Beam Global Wine and Spirits, Brown-Forman Beverages, Heaven Hill Distilleries, Moet Hennessy USA and Sidney Frank Importing) saw their spirit brands take home three honors. Impressive brand performance sent honors to Jagermeister, Skyy Vodka, Patron Tequila, Ketel One Vodka and Svedka Vodka as well.

"In the wine category, the Australian phenomenon Yellow Tail continued its dominance among imported wines, while Beringer was the largest volume award winner. Constellation split 13 awards between its Centerra Wine and Pacific Wine Partners divisions, and Robert Mondavi Private Selection. E&J Gallo picked up eight awards, led by the fast moving Barefoot Cellars. Bronco Wine Co., Brown-Forman Beverages and Foster's Wine Estates Americas picked up five awards each. Other high performance brands include Foxhorn, Cavit, Riunite, Lindemans and Clos du Bois.

"In the Established Growth Brands category, of the 27 brands cited, six were vodkas, four tequilas, and three each rums, American whiskies, Cognac/brandy or cordials."

Overall, according to Adams researchers, spirits were up in 2006 in volume by 3.7 percent, while wine overall grew 3.4 percent, a continuation of a multi-year growth spurt.

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Prospecting for a gold pedigree

This is the season of show biz awards -- the Golden Globes, the Screen Actors Guild and the upcoming Academy Awards -- but the wine world takes a backseat to no one when it comes to handing out the trinkets.

I just returned from judging (shown here) in the 7th annual San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition, in which more than 700 wines were put through the swirl/sip/spit cycle by 39 judges split, unevenly, into seven panels.

As we plowed through the chardonnays, the Spanish varietals, the malbecs, the zinfandels and the various pinots and cabernets shipped in from around the globe for the event, one topic kept coming up in conversation: What have you heard from other competitions?

Many judges participate in several competitions each year, so the insider gossip about emerging stars and declining labels is non-stop. Likewise with discussion of the competitions themselves.

Two schools of thought contend for supremacy. One is that the more medals given out, the more popular the event will become -- and the more entries it will attract. The other is that the more discerning and hard-nosed the judges are, the more valuable medals from those events will become -- and the more entries it will attract.

As always, reality lies somewhere in between. In a field replete with outsized egos, there are judges so stingy in finding praiseworthy wines they knock down legitimate contenders just to keep looking tough. Conversely, some competition managers actually seek out at least a few judges who are, to put it mildly, pushovers.

Not all events announce the winners right away. Most results are held until, for example, a sponsoring publication goes to press with the whole list or until an awards banquet is held.

In the case of the San Antonio judging, even I won't know the entire list of gold medalists until later this month. If sweet-talked, however, I might be able to provide two buying tips that came out of my panel: a 2003 Napa Ridge Reserve from the merlots-over-$15 category and a 2005 Clos du Bois from the chardonnays-under-$15.

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About those 'French wine' labels ...

The world of French wine continues its topsy-turvy course.

Not bad enough, cry the purists, that rather than letting wine age in wood some makers are adding wood chips to the wine to speed up the mellowing process -- and with government sanction, no less. Now, a move is afoot to allow winemakers to blend middle-of-the-road wines from different regions and sell them under the "Vignobles de France" label.

The new marketing ploy is aimed at propping up the nation's slumping wine industry. Proponents say such a move will allow them to better compete in the global marketplace where wines from the New World, Australia and New Zealand are consistently gaining market share. On the other hand, opponents of the move say it is short-sighted and want to stick with the traditional French preference for "terroir" labels -- Languedoc, Bordeaux, Alsace, etc. -- as a proven strength.

"We are trying to link together the word 'France,' the name of a grape and the name of a brand on which a company can invest over the long term and earn some money," Michel Leguay, deputy director for technical issues at Viniflhor, the wine industry board, told the Reuters news service.

He explained that the change would allow a wine distributor to create a bottle of sauvignon that would be made up of wine from the sauvignon grape from different regions. This would mean they could tailor the wine according to different tastes.

"It could produce a sauvignon that has a bit of acidity, of the aroma from the Loire and a bit of roundness and a more mature aroma from the Languedoc," Leguay told Reuters. "It could just as well be a product that has more sugar for Japan or wines that are a bit more structured for the United States with a bit more of a woody flavor."

The new labeling is projected for a spring implementation.

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Drop in for a small pinot

At the risk of making the maddening Disney song echo for hours in your head, it's a small world after all.

Last summer I wrote an item about a 64-square-foot former railroad signal box structure in Cleethorpes, England, that had earned the title of the world's smallest pub.

The other day I received an envelope containing a note, a letter and some photos. The note, from Frances Hynds of Delmar, NY, informed me she and her husband, Given, had met a couple from Cleethorpes while on a cruise and had struck up a continuing correspondence. "I sent your article, and I have enclosed their reply," she wrote.

The reply, from Mary Keeble, said in part: "I couldn't believe it when I read about the small bar in Cleethorpes. We went to look for it and found it. I thought I would take some photographs ... . The pub is a small signal box on the light railway that runs near our promenade. It is very good."



Thank you, Frances, and thank you, Mary.

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San Francisco treats selected from 3,800 hopefuls

Slogging their way through more than 3,800 wines, a group of 55 judges selected the top entries in the 2007 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

More than 1,500 wineries from two dozen states paid to be part of the newspaper's prestigious competition held in Sonoma County Jan. 9-12. However, complete results will not be released until the Feb. 16 edition of the Chronicle is published.

A public tasting is scheduled for Saturday, Feb. 24, at the Fort Mason Center in San Francisco. Tickets information is available online. Meanwhile, here are the sweepstakes winners:

• Reds
Santa Rita Hills Rancho Santa Rosa
Flying Goat Cellars 2005 Pinot Noir

North Coast Petite Sirah
B.R. Cohn Winery 2004 Petite Sirah

• Whites
California Geyser Peak Winery
2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Alexander Valley Premium Label
Windsor Vineyard 2006 Gewurztraminer

• Sparkling
Anderson Valley L'Ermitage
Roederer Estate 1999 Brut

• Dessert
Anderson Valley
Navarro Vineyards 2005 Late Harvest Muscat Blanc

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Chileans dessert wines for spirits, beer

Much of the world knows Chile for its wines, but beer and spirits are doing much better with Chilean consumers.

According to the leading newspaper, La Tercera, "Domestic pisco and wine consumption fell by 10 and 8 percent, respectively, in 2006. The dip marks the first decrease in either industry since 2002. Beer and hard liquor sales, traditionally a small market factor, saw dramatic increases."

Specifically, liquor sales rose 25% and beer sales 15% . Non-alcoholic beverages also saw a sharp market jump. Purified water grew by 60 percent and energy drinks, though a fraction of the market, grew by 124 percent. Chilean companies specializing in other drinks, says La Tercera, have begun taking advantage of the liquor trend by importing and distilling their own liquors, primarily rum.

Non-alcoholic beverages also have seen an increase in sales -- soft drinks by 5%, purified water 60% percent and energy drinks, though a fraction of the market, 124%.

Pisco continues to be claimed by both Chile and Peru as the national drink. It is a style of brandy: i.e., a liquor distilled from grapes and most widely consumed in Chile, Peru and Bolivia.

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NY wines wending west again

In the summer of 2003, the New York Wine & Food Classic competition had an unusual venue.

California.

The idea behind shipping the annual judging of New York wines somewhere other than in New York State was to expose more labels to West Coast judges, sommeliers and wine writers. Now, after returning to its own judging roots for three years, the Classic will ship the competition back to Napa, CA, on Aug. 7 and 8.

The event will again be held at Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts (seen here). Peter Marks, Copia's curator of wine, will handle the venue arrangements.

As one of the New York Classic's regular judges, I was on the panels at Copia in '03. Since your nose is in a glass most of the time, the surroundings don't influence your opinions. But, I must admit that since we were on display in a main corridor/display area of Copia where visitors could stop and stare from time to time, there was a lot of extra swirling, sniffing and spitting for the benefit of onlookers.

Says Jim Trezise, president of the sponsoring organization, the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, there is a major difference between the '03 event and this year's: " New York wineries can now ship directly to California consumers. We were hoping that would be the case in 2003, but it took until 2005 to get the legislation passed.

"The Governor’s Cup winner from that year, Hermann J. Wiemer" -- for his dry riesling -- "immediately got several calls from Californians wanting to purchase it, but he had to say no. This year the answer will be yes."

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Pa. wine competition expands

The broadening Pennsylvania wine industry supplied a record 219 entries for the 11th annual Farm Show Wine Competition, up from 154 the previous year.

Galen Glen Vineyard & Winery of Andreastown, Schuylkill County, and Naylor Wine Cellar of Stewartstown, York County, were the top entrants in the Jan. 6 event held during the annual Pennsylvania Farm Show in Harrisburg.

Galen Glen, which is part of the Lehigh Valley Wine Trail, won the best in show and best dessert wine gold medals for its 2005 vidal ice wine. The winery began in 1995.

Naylor, which sits near the Mason-Dixon line in southern Pennsylvania, won gold medals for its best of show red raspberry and peaches plus.

Other gold medalists:

• Best American: 2005 Winfield Winery Country Red, Cabot, Butler County.
• Best Hybrid: 2005 Pinnacle Ridge Chambourcin Reserve, Kutztown, Berks County.
• Best Vinifera: 2005 Vynecrest Cabernet Franc, Breinigsville, Lehigh County.
• Best Sparkling: 2005 Pinnacle Ridge Blanc de Blanc, Kutztown, Berks County.

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Screwcap vs. cork takes on a new odor

When one speaks of a wine's "nose," rotten eggs does not come to mind. But it sometimes could, according to a British study conducted by something called the International Wine Challenge (IWC) of London.

Analysts said 2.2% of screwcap wine bottles were affected by a chemical process called reduction that gives wine a sulphurous, or rotten egg, smell as soon as the bottles are opened. Although the same process can happen with wine stoppered by natural cork, the porous composition of cork allows oxygen to dilute the odor.

It can occur in wines stoppered by screwcap or cork, but cork's porous nature allows oxygen to dilute the smell.

Tests conducted on 9,000 screwcap wines by the IWC found 2.2% were affected by sulphidisation because the wine was not allowed to breathe. If extrapolated worldwide, that would result in 200,000 affected bottles. The IWC also found that 4.4% of cork-stoppered bottles also suffered sulphide problems but, as noted, since corks allow oxygen to pass through, the smell dissipates.

Malcolm Gluck, a noted British wine writer who is the wine critic for the Guardian newspaper in London, told the BBC Online that any concern is largely overplayed.

"It's rubbish," he said. "Any bottle can suffer from sulphidisation. Even organic wines have to have sulphur" as a preservative.

The problem, Gluck said, is with a minority of producers who have not yet gotten the level of sulphur right, when wine is sealed with a screw top, rather than a cork, which allows a small amount of air in over time.

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Because they can

When one sees a world-record feat or object paraded in front of them, the common question is, was that accomplished because it needed to be or because it can be?

Take your choice when it comes to Maximus, the world's largest bottle of wine. It was auctioned off at Sotheby's in New York the other day, essentially attracting a crowd because of its size -- a 1,200-glass capacity.

It was created by Czech craftsmen and glassblowers (glass engineer and artist Charles Parriott is shown standing on the far left of the photo) to mark the 25th anniversary of the Morton's steakhouse chain.

Maximus was certified back in June by the usual suspects at the Guinness Book of World Records. The bottle is 4 1/2 feet high and weighs 340 pounds and, thus, is the world's largest bottle. It contains private reserve cabernet sauvignon from the Beringer Vineyards in California.

It took a year to make the bottle, from concept to finish. The first mold was made by a firm near Prague in the Czech Republic. The first bottle-blowing attempt, done in England, didn't work out. A second, and successful, attempt was carried out in the Czech Republic, historically known for its fine glassmaking companies.

The Sotheby's auction fetched $56,000 for the wine-filled bottle, with proceeds going to charity.

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Japan adds a New York flair

The Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant in Tokyo -- named for the original in Manhattan -- will feature 12 New York wines by the bottle and the glass for a month beginning Feb. 15.

Jim Trezise, head of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, reports:

"The wines are from the Hudson Valley, Finger Lakes, and Long Island regions, including Brotherhood 2004 Dry Riesling, Dr. Frank Salmon Run 2004 Chardonnay and 2004 Cabernet Franc, Lamoreaux Landing 2005 Dry Riesling, Martha Clara Brut, Peconic Bay 2003 Steel Fermented Chardonnay and 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rivendell City Cab, Raphael 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Standing Stone 2005 Vidal Ice Wine, Wagner 2004 Barrel Fermented Seyval Blanc, and Wolffer Estate La Ferme Martin 2004 Chardonnay."

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Heat spells trouble for ice wines

You don't need grapes to make wine, but you do need ice to make ice wine. And, therein lies a problem.

This spectacularly mild winter is affecting more than ski centers and heating fuel distributors. With temperatures routinely running in the 50s and 60s in many areas on both sides of the U.S.-Canadian border where much of the ice wine is produced, necessary conditions for harvesting grapes for ice wine manufacture simply are not there.

"We're not getting the lows, and grapes are starting to dehydrate on the vines,'' Doug Miles told me. He operates Miles Wine Cellars on the west shore of Seneca Lake in New York's Finger Lakes, usually a good spot for ice wine grapes.

"Normally, you need temperatures to get down to about 8 degrees Farenheit,'' he said. "Then, you start picking at about 2 in the morning and keep going until about a half-hour before sunrise to get the crop in. We've been experiencing temperatures in the 50s and even the 60s this winter and it's definitely going to take its toll.''

Jim Trezise, head of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation which works to educate consumers and promote products on behalf of the state's 200-plus wineries, is a lifelong Finger Lakes resident usually looking ahead to harvests and production statistics. Not when I contacted him the other day, however.

"I can't imagine 2007 ice wine, given that it's 60 degrees and I'm enjoying a glass of chardonnay on my deck next to the lake,'' he said.

North of the border, the situation is about the same. Reports Trezise, " ... The Ontario folks are sweating bullets this year because of the mild winter, but still holding out hope. ... This would clearly hurt Ontario more than New York, but none of us in this industry want anyone, anywhere to be hurt by weather, as we all endure it.''

The normal ice wine yield is 40 gallons from a ton of grapes. It takes about four times as many grapes to make ice wine as it does standard wine, thus the price points usually are higher for the sweeter, thicker products. Growers are expecting that output to drop to the 25-30 gallon range because of the warm spell, which no doubt will drive up prices even further as well as cutting into availability. The latter is a common problem for many New York wine producers who don't churn out wines in great abundance.

Legalities prevent winemakers from simply slapping an ice wine label on their products. In the U.S., a product cannot be called an ice wine unless the grapes are harvested and pressed while frozen, meaning you cannot pick them, then freeze them, then process them. Canadian regulations are similar.

All is not yet lost, Doug Miles points out.

"We still have until about late February before we start ruling out any sort of sufficient freeze, but it's not an ideal situation. Also, at the current temperatures, the vines are not as winter hardy as we might hope because they haven't had a chance to toughen up.''

Given the historic cold winters in New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania and other Northeastern states that regularly produce ice wine, a cold snap in the next few weeks could save the day. Or, last-minute harvesting without benefit of a freeze would at least let producers label their products "late harvest'' wine, a style enjoyed by many consumers but not as pricey -- and, therefore, not as lucrative -- as ice wine.

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Keeping the 'bs' in PBS

The Public Broadcasting System, seeing the money rolling into network and cable stations from cashing in on the insatiable public demand for reality shows, has decided to get in on the act.

PBS' "Wine Makers," a reality competition set for 2007, will pit 12 contestants vying for the chance to launch their own label.

The twist is that financing the series requires a new sponsorship model, rather than the method PBS has long used to keep its pristine character from being besmirched by godless commercialism,

Instead of quick, nearly-generic tag lines presented along with the PBS underwriters' logos, the new show will provide what PBS calls "top-tier sponsors" a five- to 15-second spot before and after the half-hour show.

Let's review. Sponsors will give PBS money to give them air time for 5- to 15-second spots about their products and services. Funny, in the real world they refer to those as, how you say, commercials !

The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, the former Paso Robles Vintners & Growers Association which promotes wines from California's central coast, is the first to sign up.

Plans call for the eight-episode series to employ the usual toss-'em-out-weekly model, with the original field of 12 contestants pared by half in the first two episodes. The contestants will live together like other reality series, and a rotating group of judges will decide on their skills in various aspects of winemaking.

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Jacob's Creek popping its corks

It's about time to retire all those old jokes about bad wines and screw caps.

Jacob's Creek (the namesake stream is seen here), a respectable name on the Australian wine scene, is getting rid of corks on all its wines and using twist-off caps to, as a company announcement put it, safeguard the "quality and consistency" of its wines.

All of the winery's lower-priced wines will convert in the next few months, to be followed by the same move for its premium Heritage Range wines by late in 2007.

Adrian Atkinson, development director at parent company Pernod Ricard, said in a statement, "'Responding to the demands of retailers, consumers and our wine-making team, the decision has been taken to put the entire Jacob's Creek range under screw cap in order to preserve fruit flavours and guarantee consistently high quality."

The matter of screwtops vs. corks has been heatedly debated for several years. Proponents of the change say screwtops prevent contamination of wines. Those in favor of corks say the small amount of oxygen they allow into the wine helps the aging process.

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Putting all their wines in one state basket

New York wines have a continually growing reputation, particularly in the realm of rieslings and red blends. But trying to find a source offering a wide range of what the state's 240 wineries produce is next to impossible.

People living in or near the state capital, however, will be finding their search a lot easier if a new wine shop in the old mill city of Cohoes, just outside Albany, takes hold.

The Harmony House Marketplace, located in a 175-year-old building on Remsen Street, opened this week selling only New York brand wines. The owners are Diane Conroy-LaCivita and Jane LaCivita Clemente.

Conroy-LaCivita, a former municipal clerk and high school social studies teacher, said she and her partner will carry about 138 brands from 40-50 wineries in their 700-square-foot shop. Their goal is to raise that to 90 to 100 wineries.

The city of Cohoes helped the entrepreneurs with grants and other incentives. Conroy-LaCivita said the upfront investment for renovations and other expenses was more than $300,000.

One of the major marketing problems New York wineries traditionally have faced is that few but the very largest companies -- Dr. Konstantin Frank, Herman Weimer and the like -- have enough customers outside their immediate neighborhoods. Most are small-scale producers whose output is snapped up by visitors to the wineries and by nearby stores and restaurants.

The new partners latched on to the New York-only concept after taking several classes at Schenectady County Community College, then embarking on some self-education in the wine world.

"We realized New York had a wide range of very good wines,'' Conroy-LaCivita told me. "We like the idea of supporting state businesses, the ecology, sustainable agriculture, and all those things can work together.''

The shop owners also like the idea of building relationships directly with the winemakers and wineries, something they wouldn't be doing if they handled imported wines.

"We've already visited many of the wineries in the state and started developing close relationships with some of them,'' Conroy-LaCivita says, although she concedes there sometimes is a problem with availability of small-batch wines and
wholesale pricing to vendors.

Harmony House Marketplace (238-2233), 184 Remsen St., is open every day, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays. Tastings are scheduled each Friday.

For a video, created by Kathleen Lisson, with the entrepreneurs click here.

Just what wine would a wine buyer buy if a ...

If the buyer for the largest wine superstore in the United States were asked to select a mixed case of wines from the 15,000 his store stocks, what would he choose?

If you guessed a propensity for California labels, you'd be correct. Three of Shawn Lightfoot's picks from among 12 in the case were from California, with threee others also coming from the West Coast, two from Washington and one from Oregon.

The selection was done at the behest of U.S. News & World Report. The magazine contacted Lightfoot at Applejack Wine & Spirits in Denver and asked him to select a case using any vintage or variety, but limited to a total price of $250.

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