20110425

English sparklers an emerging treat

Hush Heath Estate, which produces Balfour wine.
From The New York Times

By Eric Asimov

It was as gently gorgeous as any wine region I’ve visited, although looking around you would never know it was a wine region at all. Verdant pastures dotted with cattle and sheep, interspersed with bursting bluebells and fields of rapeseed shimmering with yellow flowers all spoke colorfully of an economy dependent for centuries on the annual rhythms of agriculture. But the landscape said little of wine.

This was southern England, which I visited last week for a piece on English sparkling wine. Very few Americans are aware that England makes any wine at all, much less good sparkling wine, and, looking around, they won’t see much to convince them otherwise.

Unlike more historic wine regions, you are not surrounded by a monoculture of grapes in the countryside. But here and there, in hidden valleys and secluded glens, vineyards of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier on south-facing slopes offer evidence of a new optimism that England can make world-class sparkling wine.

That optimism is not at all unfounded. English sparkling wines may not yet rival very good Champagnes, but the best versions are already surprisingly good. I was especially taken with the elegant blanc de blancs from Ridgeview Estate in East Sussex and Gusbourne Estate in Kent. Hush Heath Estate’s Balfour Brut Rosé is quite good.

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20110422

Celebri-quote: Christa Miller

The cast of the TV series "Cougar Town" downs a LOT of wine in the course of its weekly comedy episodes. In an interview with the New York Post, co-star Christa Miller, who plays bitchy Ellie Torres, talks about the drinking aspects of the series.

Christa: "You can ... turn the show into a drinking game. There’s one every time we drink, you have to drink, which is insane in some episodes. It’s crazy. Someone said that every time Ellie gives a withering glare to someone, you should drink. Which I thought was funny. Then I thought I should maybe tone down the withering glare if that truly becomes part of the drinking game. I don't want to hurt anyone."
Post: "Can you safely say that 'Cougar Town' could out drink 'Mad Men?' "

Christa: I feel like we have to. I mean, Jules [the character played by Courtney Cox] is drinking out of a candle holder in Mexico because she didn’t bring Big Joe [her oversized wine glass]with her. One of them actually fits two entire bottles of wine. It’s ridiculous.

Post: Obviously you're not really drinking wine on the show, what is it?

Christa: Grape juice. But you have to sip it. You don’t want to get a scene where you’re drinking a lot. Ian [Gomez, who plays her husband, Andy] had a scene where he lost a bet and had to keep chugging glasses, take after take, and the sugar headache is worse than being drunk.

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20110421

An appreciation: Jess Jackson

• This commentary by noted wine writer Lettie Teague in remembrance of winemaker and racing entrepreneur Jess Jackson who died this week at the age of 81 was published in The Wall Street Journal.

By Lettie Teague

When I met Jess Jackson a few years ago, I traveled not to Napa or Sonoma, but to the bluegrass country of Kentucky.

Jess had stipulated that my story should take place with his Stonestreet Farms as the setting, rather than one of his many wineries.

As one who shared his love of horses as well as wine, that was perfectly fine with me. In fact, I was thrilled. It was the first time that I’ve ever written a profile of a vintner that included a tour of a breeding shed, not to mention a trip to Belmont Racetrack to watch the great Curlin win the Woodward Stakes.

During our time together we talked as much about great race horses as we did great wine (perhaps a little bit more about the former, in fact).

But Jess Jackson was a different sort of vintner in so many ways.

He was a millionaire many times over, but more importantly he was a man driven by passion: for wine (Kendall Jackson Vintners Reserve is still the most recognizable Chardonnay in this country decades after its debut), for land (he bought thousands of acres of vineyards all over California, and chiefly in Sonoma, his home) and for great horses, like Curlin and Rachel Alexandra.

[Go here for the rest of the commentary.]

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When mommys attack, over wine

SAN FRANCISCO, CA -- Selling wine to moms is important enough to a pair of rival companies that they have taken the use of the term "mommy" to federal court.

Clos Lachance Wines, a California company, on Monday filed suit here in an attempt to get the court to rule that its "MommyJuice" does not violate the trademark of "Mommy's Time Out," which is marketed by a New Jersey distributor.

"Mommy is a generic word that they don't have a monopoly on," said KC Branch, an attorney who represents Clos Lachance. The owner of "Mommy's Time Out" declined to comment on the lawsuit.

In trademark violation cases, a brand owner must show it is likely a rival mark will create confusion in the minds of consumers.

As they say on TV, the future remains cloudy.

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20110420

Guest comment: Lower the drinking ages

• The writer is director of the Insurance Studies project at the Competitive Enterprise Institute. The issues she manages include property insurance, adult beverages, gambling industry regulation, and adult entertainment regulation. This commentary first appeared in National Review Online.

By Michelle Minton

Alaska state Representative Bob Lynn (R-Anchorage) is asking the long overdue question: Why do we consider 18-year-olds old enough to join the military, to fight and die for our country, but not to have a drink with their friends before they ship out or while they’re home on leave? Lynn has introduced a bill that would allow anyone 18 years and older with a military ID to drink alcohol in Alaska.

The bill already is facing strong opposition from self-styled public-health advocates. However, the data indicate that the 21-minimum drinking age has not only done zero good, it may actually have done harm. In addition, an individual legally enjoys nearly all other rights of adulthood upon turning 18 -- including the rights to vote, get married, and sign contracts. It is time to reduce the drinking age for all Americans.

In the early 1970s, with the passage of the 26th Amendment (which lowered the voting age to 18), 29 states lowered their minimum legal drinking age to 18, 19, or 20 years old. Other states already allowed those as young as 18 to buy alcohol, such as Louisiana, New York, and Colorado. However, after some reports showed an increase in teenage traffic fatalities, some advocacy groups pushed for a higher drinking age. They eventually gained passage of the 1984 National Minimum Drinking Age Act, which lets Congress withhold 10% of a state’s federal highway funds if it sets its minimum legal drinking age below 21. (Alaska reportedly would lose up to $50 million a year if Lynn’s bill passes.)

By 1988, all states had raised their drinking age to 21. In the years since, the idea of lowering the drinking age has periodically returned to the public debate, but groups such as Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) have been able to fight back attempts to change the law. (Louisiana briefly lowered its age limit in back to 18 in 1996, after the state Supreme Court ruled that the 21 limit was a form of age discrimination, but the court reversed that decision a few months later.)

It’s true that America has a problem with drinking: The rates of alcoholism and teenage problem drinking are far greater here than in Europe. Yet in most European countries, the drinking age is far lower than 21. Some, such as Italy, have no drinking age at all. The likely reason for the disparity is the way in which American teens are introduced to alcohol versus their European counterparts. While French or Italian children learn to think of alcohol as part of a meal, American teens learn to drink in the unmonitored environment of a basement or the backwoods with their friends. A 2009 study by the National Institute on Drug Abuse, National Institute of Health, and U.S. Department of Health and Human Services concluded that 72% of graduating high school seniors already had consumed alcohol.

The problem is even worse on college campuses, where there is an unspoken understanding between students, administrators, local law enforcement, and parents that renders drinking-age restrictions effectively moot as students drink alcohol at frat or house parties and in their dorm rooms. The result is dangerous, secret binge drinking. This unspoken agreement and the problems it creates led a group of college chancellors and presidents from around the nation to form the Amethyst Initiative, which proposes a reconsideration of the current drinking age.

Middlebury College President Emeritus John M. McCardell, who also is a charter member of Presidents Against Drunk Driving, came out in favor of lowering the drinking age to 18 years old in a 2004 New York Times opinion article. “Our latter-day prohibitionists have driven drinking behind closed doors and underground," he wrote. “Colleges should be given the chance to educate students, who in all other respects are adults, in the appropriate use of alcohol, within campus boundaries and out in the open."

The most powerful argument, at least emotionally, for leaving the drinking age at 21 is that the higher age limit has prevented alcohol-related traffic fatalities. Such fatalities indeed decreased about 33% from 1988 to 1998 -- but the trend is not restricted to the United States. In Germany, for example, where the drinking age is 16, alcohol-related fatalities decreased by 57% between 1975 and 1990. The most likely cause for the decrease in traffic fatalities is a combination of law enforcement, education, and advances in automobile-safety technologies such as airbags and roll cages.

In addition, statistics indicate that these fatalities may not even have been prevented but rather displaced by three years, and that fatalities might even have increased over the long run because of the reduced drinking age. In an award-winning study in 2010, University of Notre Dame undergraduate Dan Dirscherl found that banning the purchase of alcohol between the ages of 18 and 21 actually increased traffic fatalities of those between the ages of 18 and 24 by 3%.

Dirscherl’s findings lend credence to the "experienced drinker" hypothesis, which holds that when people begin driving at 16 and gain confidence for five years before they are legally able to drink, they are more likely to overestimate their driving ability and have less understanding of how alcohol consumption affects their ability to drive.

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20110419

Nation's top sommelier emerges

Alexander LaPratt
NEW YORK -- db Bistro Moderne has long been regarded as one of the nation's top restaurants. Now its Alexander LaPratt is the nation's top sommelier.

LaPratt won the title of “Best Sommelier in America” on Sunday night in a competition hosted by the American Sommelier Association, an organization dedicated to wine education and the sommelier industry in America. He was in competition with 30 candidates from 12 states in a two-day competition at the Jumeirah Essex House hotel.

All the competitors completed a blind tasting test and a written exam that cut the field to four finalists. The others were Christopher Bates of the Hotel Fauchere in Milford, PA, Jared Fischer of Le Bernardin in New York, and Michael Meagher of Treasury Wine Estates in Waltham, MA.

They had to complete tests in food and wine pairing, a blind spirits tasting and a cigar service test, as well as work in a mock dining room full of demanding customers.

Judges for the event included Aldo Sohm, chef sommelier of Le Bernardin and 2007's "Best Sommelier in America," Andre Compeyre, chef sommelier of Adour Alain Ducasse; Andrew F. Bell, co-founder of American Sommelier, and Rajat Parr, wine director of Mina Group.

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Got wine? Think insurance

From Reuters

There's a growing market for insuring fine wine as even people who had never thought to insure their liquid assets, or don't even have a cellar, discover they have a valuable commodity.

"There are people who have not thought of insuring and they have been collecting for years," Yannick Daucourt, fine art specialist for XL Insurance, said.

"They do it for the passion, because they like to drink the wine more than to sell it. Then, they suddenly realize that it has risen in value and they show more interest in insuring it."

Prices for wine have risen sharply. Last December a case of 12 bottles of 1982 Lafite with impeccable provenance could be bought at auction for $45,000. By mid-March the price for the Bordeaux was $60,000.

"As a collector you don't even have to have wine," Daucourt said from his office in Zurich. "You can invest in funds. And that's where we, as an insurer, have seen an increase."

[Go here for the full story.]

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20110413

Coppola playing winery name game

From The New York Times

By ERIC ASIMOV


It’s almost enough to make you dizzy: Francis Ford Coppola announced yesterday that his Rubicon Estate, formerly known as the Niebaum-Coppola Estate, will heretofore be known as Inglenook. Say what?

Well, it actually all makes perfect sense. Inglenook, before it went to corporate brand-name heaven (or is that hell?) was the historic name of one of Napa Valley’s pioneering wineries. It was founded in 1879 by Gustave Niebaum, and produced some of the greatest cabernet sauvignons in Napa history, particularly in the mid-20th century under John Daniel Jr., a grand-nephew of Niebaum. Mr. Daniel died in 1971, and eventually the winery, vineyards and Inglenook brand were sold off.

Mr. Coppola, the movie director, purchased the old Niebaum home and part of the original Inglenook vineyard in 1975. Since then, he has been trying to reconstitute the original estate. In 1995, he bought the old Inglenook winery and the remaining Inglenook vineyard, but the brand name eluded him.

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20110408

The Donald snaps up distressed VA winery

A broad look at the Kluge property.

CHARLOTTSVILLE, VA -- The Donald now is The Owner. Although, the idea of Donald Trump owning something is pretty much an everyday thing.

In this instance, Trump was the top bidder for the Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard in a foreclosure auction this week. It apparently was the latest piece of property the mogul has purchased from socialite Patricia Kluge, who he's known since they were in their 20s. She received an estimated $15 million in her divorce from late billionaire John Kluge, who at one point was the richest man in America.


The winery, located just south of here, won prizes and good reviews, but Kluge and her current husband, former IBM executive William Moses, "gained somewhat controversial reputations in the close-knit wine industry, with some vintners sniping that the two were rich self-promoters," according to The Washington Post.

"I'm really interested in good real estate, not so much in wine," Trump told The Post. "This place had a $28 million mortgage on it, and I bought it for $6.2 million. It's a Trump deal!"

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20110406

Poll: 30% drink weekly, beer preferred

Thirty percent of Americans 21 and older say they drink alcohol at least once a week, with 5% drinking daily and 10% drinking several times a week.

Those are among the findings of the just-released Harris Poll of 2,379 adults surveyed online between March 7 and 14 by Harris Interactive. Among other results:

• 22% of Americans say they never drink alcohol.
 
• Men are more frequent drinkers than women, with 38% of men saying say they drink at least once a week compared to 21% of women.

• Among those who drink at least several times a year, beer is the top choice: 63% say they drink beer and 54% drink domestic wine; 41% drink vodka; 34% drink rum; 28% drink tequila; 28% drink foreign wine; 20% drink various types of whiskies such as Irish or Canadian.

• Further down the list of preferred alcoholic beverages are champagne (17%), cordials and liqueurs (17%), bourbon (15%), gin (14%), scotch (11%), cognac (8%) and brandy/Armagnac (7%).

The survey was accompanied by variety of tables showing both general and specific categories of drinking. Double-click on them to access a large-type version.





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20110403

An investigation that withered on the vine

Doug Miles, foreground, and Scott Osborn. (TU file photo)
From the Albany Times Union’s “Followup On the News” column:

Some New York winery owners complained to then-Attorney General Andrew Cuomo in the winter of 2009 that liquor store operators were improperly threatening to freeze them out in retaliation for their campaign for a law to allow grocery stores to sell wine.

An investigation was demanded after some of the most vocal vintners received what they said were letters and phone calls attempting to intimidate them.

Jennifer Carlson, a representative of a group of wine-makers and grape growers, said an antitrust probe seemed warranted. Cuomo’s staff did begin an inquiry, she said. But she and some of the winery owners, such as Scott Osborn of Fox Run Vineyards, never found out what was learned.

"They called us and said there wasn't enough evidence," said Doug Miles, of Miles Wine Cellars in Himrod, Yates County. "There were a lot of wineries that sent in information about strong-arming to the AG's office. We thought we had a good case."

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20110327

Light, sweet ... mmmm, that's asparagus!

The Fox Barn's asparagus wine label
In a new televised promotion campaign, the state of Michigan is pushing its status as a major producer of wine grapes and other fruits, and of wine itself. In all the text and images encompassed by the ads, the word "asparagus" doesn't come up.

Perhaps it should.

As part of their ever-widening range of products, Todd and Kellie Fox of the Fox Barn Market & Winery now are offering asparagus wine, a nod to their location in the state's asparagus belt. Last year they introduced their first apple wines.

Todd and Kellie Fox
It came about, Kellie said in an interview, when husband Todd -- a fourth-generation owner of their farm -- "brought home a tub of mashed asparagus and said, 'Do something with this.' So I added water and sugar and yeast, and it started fermenting. It did not smell great."

However, further tinkering wound up producing a light, slightly sweet wine to go with other wines they've been producing since founding a winery on the farm eight years ago.

You can get a detailed look at their operation by checking with the Detroit Free Press online.

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20110326

Wal-Marts to get PA wine kiosk approval

HARRISBURG, PA -- The experimental self-service wine kiosk program being used in some Pennsylvania groceries is about to be expanded.

Stacey Witalec, spokesperson for the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, said Friday the board has approved wine kiosks for 24 Walmart stores around the state. Contracts are being reviewed.

Witalec said it probably will be several months before Walmart has the automated wine-bottle dispensing machines in use.

The initial trial program of such kiosks in about 30 non-Walmart stores was reduced in December when many of the devices malfunctioned. However, Witalec said, those problems have largely been resolved.

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20110325

PA trail votes for name change this weekend

A Pennsylvania wine trail with a name that many saw as misleading and unoriginal is asking consumers to pick a new one.

The UnCork York Wine Trail, a name seemingly ripped-off the older "Uncork New York" marketing motto -- and an odd pick considering the fact that it meanders over several counties other than York County -- will be renamed and rebranded to better publicize the region that stretches across south central Pennsylvania.

Visitors to the wineries this weekend for the 4th annual "Tour de Tanks" will be asked to vote for a new name. Voting will be held from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday at four wineries:

Adams County Winery/Farm Winery, Orrtanna, Adams County
Allegro Vineyards, Brogue, York County
Cullari Vineyards & Winery, Hershey, Dauphin County
Nissley Vineyards & Winery Estate, Bainbridge, Lancaster County

"As the UnCork York Wine Trail continues to grow, it is important that the trail’s identity reflect the experience and footprint guests enjoy during their visit," said Anne Druck, president of the York County Convention & Visitors Bureau. "To achieve this goal, the UnCork York Wine Trail has been working on a rebranding effort to expand the trail’s identity, further establishing its reputation as one of the top Pennsylvania trails."

The trail began in 2005 with 10 member wineries. It now has 13 wineries across York, Lancaster, Dauphin and Adams counties. It is the largest of Pennsylvania's 11 wine trais.

Voters will get to select from among three proposed new names and mottos. They are:

"Vine to Vintage: Central PA’s Premier Wine Trail"

"Central PA Reserve: Experience the Area’s Premier Wine Trail"

"UnCork PA: Central Pennsylvania’s Premier Wine Trail"

Curious possibilities. None falls trippingly from the tongue, and I don't understand the logic of calling something the area's "premier" trail. An area has only one trail. Why not try something simpler and more to the point, something without two parts -- such as "Vintage Pennsylvania" or "Keystone Wine Trail"?

By the way, anyone who cannot make it to one of the four winery "polling places" can vote online this weekend. Trail officials will reveal  the new name this summer.

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Maryland may change wine shipping law

• From The Baltimore Sun

ANNAPOLIS, MD -- Wineries across the state -- and country -- soon might be permitted to ship bottles directly to Maryland homes. Shoppers could pick up local wines at more farmers' markets. And diners might one day be able to bring their favorite vintage to an already licensed restaurant.

After years of shooting down changes to the state's alcohol laws, lawmakers are showing signs this year that they're ready to embrace some measures long sought by consumers.

But for enthusiasts, there may be a price to pay: On Thursday, a state Senate committee agreed to raise the sales tax on alcohol from 6 to 9%. If the increase survives the budget process, it would be the first tax hike on alcohol in four decades.

Maryland wine aficionados are cheering the policy developments. While many are not happy about the potential tax increase, several predicted that it would have minimal impact on sales.

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20110314

Kent State offering Ohio's 1st wine degree

ASHTABULA, Ohio -- College-level training in winemaking isn't new to such places as California, New York and Indiana, but in Ohio it's new territory.

The state's first college degrees related to winemaking will be offered at Kent State University's Ashtabula campus beginning in the fall.

Students in the new two-year program offering associate's degrees in enology or in viticulture will be in the midst of Ohio wine country. A majority of Ohio's 151 wineries are located in Ashtabula County, located along Lake Erie, and neighboring Lake and Geauga counties.

The program is affiliated with the Viticulture Enology Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA), founded in 2003 at Missouri State University, to serve wineries between the Appalachians and the Rockies. It partners with colleges, state agricultural agencies and vineyards in 11 states to promote education in grape-growing and winemaking.

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Ruined Aussie grape crop seen as a positive

Marker shows the blighted Dubbo region.
A ruined grape harvest in the New South Wales region of Australia is making some growers smile.

Ken Borchardt, chairman of Macquarie Valley Food and Wine, says the loss of hobby grape growers from the Dubbo region could help strengthen the Australian wine industry.

Borchardt, who also is the founder of Red Earth Estate winery, says the entire grape harvest in Dubbo, worth about $3 million, has been wiped out by mildew and disease from the wet weather late last year, and some "hobby" growers are pulling out vines and planning to grow cherries and other fruit crops instead of grapes.

He looks at that as a positive.

"If the weekend warriors, or those that didn't take the industry seriously, were out it would definitely open doors for us in reference to markets," he told ABC News. "Also, if the amount of fruit or wine produced for Australia was decreased, we could actually start earning a little bit better dollars. Then we could get into the marketplace and market what Australia's very good at -- producing premium high quality wines."

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20110305

Fronds will be at half-mast

Photo courtesy San Francisco Chronicle
From The Village Voice

Norman Jay Hobday, the man credited with inventing the leafy breed of swinging singles bar called the "fern bar," died last week at the age of 77 in San Francisco. 

Originally from Upstate New York, Hobday ended up in San Francisco after the Korean War, where he opened Henry Africa's. According to the San Francisco Chronicle, he had little money to spruce the place up, so he filled it with hanging plants, and it became known as the world's first fern bar.

Last year's tiki renaissance led Washington Post booze writer Jason Wilson to ask the question: Can a fern bar revival be very far off? He wrote:

"Are we soon to see trendy urban bars themed to look like the Regal Beagle, Jack Tripper's swinging hangout in the 1970s sitcom 'Three's Company'? Why not? We've already lived through the speakeasy revival and the tiki bar revival."

Sadly or not, the fern bar remains a distant, fuzzy memory -- in New York, at least. But prospective bar owners looking for the next fad might want to take note: We already have bars with rooftop and backyard gardens. So, why not bring some of that green inside, trade in those tiki Hawaiian shirts for some good ol' polyester, and see what sort of convoluted, sexually suggestive mishaps we can get ourselves into.

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20110220

Ancient winemaking site found in Armenia

The ancient winemaking site. (Hans Barnard/The Epoch Times)
From The Epoch Times

Archeologists from the United States, Egypt, and Armenia have unearthed an ancient winemaking facility in the cave complex Areni-1, located near a southern Armenian village. It’s the same complex where the oldest known leather shoe, dated to 3500 B.C., was discovered.

A chemical analysis paper, published online in the Journal of Archeological Science, has confirmed the unearthed unit to be a complete wine production site.

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Scottish distiller using Crimean wine barrels

Crimea region is shown in dark green, Ukraine in light green.

The widespread practice of employing such used barrels as American white oak bourbon and Spanish Olorosso sherry casks in finishing the maturation process of Scottish whiskies is getting a new twist: used Ukranian wine barrels.

The Glenglassaugh Distillery in Portsroy, Scotland, recently received its first shipment of barrels used by the Massandra winery, the oldest in Ukraine.
The casks already have been filled at the Highlanda distillery, some with new spirit for maturation, others with older spirit for finishing.

Sampling is planned for a year's time to check on the progress of the maturation.

The peninsula in the Ukraine that juts unto the Crimean Sea has been home to a wine culture since the 4th century B.C., according to analysis of artifacts such as grape presses and urns found there. Wine grape cultivation didn't begin in the northern part of the country until about the 11th Century A.D.

Massandra is a state-owned facility that in the days of the Soviet Union was the largest supplier of the wines in the USSR. According to Wikipedia, "It came to a disaster in 1986. About 800 km of the vineyards were destroyed, when Mikhail Gorbachev started a campaign for the delimitation of the consumption of alcohol in USSR. Since 2000, the production as well as the export of the wines increased rapidly."

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