You dirty, dirty little wine, you

Dan Berger, who I've gotten to know over the years judging wine competitions together, doesn't stay in the middle of the road when it comes to thinking about wine.

The veteran California wine writer is a font of information on offbeat wine angles. His latest concerns dirt and wine.

Not a discussion of the dirt that wine grapes grow in, but the dirt that gets into the wine and, by extension, into consumers' mouths.

You can read his treatise on the topic here.

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