A celebri-quote: Robin Goldstein

• Several weeks ago, at a conference of the American Association of Wine Economists, Robin Goldstein revealed that he had created a fictional Italian restaurant and entered its wine list in the annual Wine Spectator magazine running for awards of excellence -- and got one. Michael Veseth, noted author and director of the International Political Economy program at the University of Puget Sound in Tacoma, WA, chaired the session at which the sting was described. Now that he has thought about the scandal for a while, Veseth makes his thoughts known. Here's an excerpt.

" ... It’s too bad that Wine Spectator got caught in the restaurant award scam because they seem to be pretty careful to avoid paid-placement problems in the wine ratings section.

"So where is the outrage? I’m not sure outrage is called for here. But I do think that we all need to be critical consumers of wine reviews publications and ratings (just as we are with advertising and media in general). And I’d encourage wine publications to try to be especially transparent in drawing the line between editorial content and paid commercial features."

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Wine audio set is music for the ears

Wine is, admittedly, a mood setter. But you don't need the liquid to do the trick.

This wine-centric sound system, suggested retail price $240, is the latest Japanese gimmick to fool the eye, if not the ear. The wine glass-shaped speakers and the wine vat digital amplifier are accompanied by an LED light that adds "fizz" to the drink.

For audiophiles: The amplifier has a rated output of 4 W × 2ch and input sensitivity of 3000mV that reproduces natural and realistic sound. It measures 62 × 80 × 71.5mm, weighs 200 grams, and the speaker with 32 mm diameter aluminum dome-shaped inverted full range speaker with 4 Ω impedance measure 62 × 130mm, weigh 145 g (each).

The Mini Clear Sound System DT-SA101 is available in Japan right now, but you can always do some online shopping to see if you can acquire one.

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Letters: About that Armand de Brignac Rosé

Good afternoon, Bill:

Can you tell me a little bit about Rosé Armand de Brignac? Sampled it last night at 1Oak in Manhattan. It was amazing.

Leon Collier, Brooklyn

Dear Leon:

I presume you're talking about the pink champagne Armand de Brignac Rosé, which retails in the $500-and-up (sometimes waay up) range. It's a new expression from a highly-respected house.

Armand de Brignac’s champagnes are a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes from the Premier Cru vineyards of the Carrier family in Chigny-les-Roses, a village located in France's Champagne region.

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Wine Spectator fires back

I recently posted the story of the fictional restaurant in Italy that received a real award from Wine Spectator magazine ("Presenting the first Wine Spectator Sting Award").

On its blog, the magazine responds to the situation thus:

"This act of malicious duplicity reminds us that no one is completely immune to fraud. It is sad that an unscrupulous person can attack a publication that has earned its reputation for integrity over the past 32 years. Wine Spectator will clearly have to be more vigilant in the future."

If you want to read the magazine's lengthy overall statement, just click here.

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Swedish Hill rated New York's best

Swedish Hill Winery emerged from the 23rd annual New York Wine & Food Classic competition with the top prizes.

The Cayuga Lake establishment, which has been on a roll this year, won both the Governor's Cup for producing the state's best wine -- a 2007 vidal blanc ($11.99 a bottle) judged best white wine and best vidal blanc as well as best overall among a record 774 entries-- and the title "Winery of the Year."

In addition, the winery owned by Dick and Cindy Peterson took the prize for best sparkling wine with its spumante blush.

Other category champions:

• Best red wine: Bedell Cellars 2006 Musee

• Best blush or rosé wine: Anthony Road Wine Co. 2007 Dry Rose

• Best specialty wine: Earle Estates Meadery Creamy Apricot

• Best dessert wine: Casa Larga Vineyards 2005 Fiori Vidal Ice Wine

• Best specialty wine: Earle Estates Meadery of Seneca Lake

The competition is run by the New York State Wine & Grape Foundation and this year was held at the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz.

The Petersons' establishment also has swept up an array of gold and other medals in a variety of competitions this year. You can see the complete list here.

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What I'm tasting

• Zette Malbec

• El Coto Rioja

• Bove Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

• Michel Jodoin Calijo Brandy de Pommes

• Domaine du Closel Savenniéres La Jalousie 2005

• Chateau du Rouét 2007 Chateau du Rouet Cuvee Reservee

Go to Dowd's Tasting Notes for my views on these and many other adult beverages.

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iPhone app showdown: Beer vs. Wine vs. Cocktails

Camper English, a San Francisco drinks writer, often lets his curiosity lead him in interesting directions. The latest started out, he explains, when "I wanted to see what booze applications were available for the iPhone, so I searched for beer, wine, and cocktails."

What did he find? Visit his Alcademics blog and enjoy.

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Presenting the first Wine Spectator Sting Award

Have you ever wondered how Wine Spectator magazine has the ability to visit all those restaurants and inns all over the world that compete for its annual awards of excellence?

Apparently, it doesn't. And that may be a shattering blow to the prestigious magazine's reputation.

Author Robin Goldstein revealed at the recent 2nd annual conference of the American Association of Wine Economists in Portland, OR, that he and a colleague created a virtual restaurant in Italy with a Web site and a virtual wine list, paid the $250 application fee for consideration from Wine Spectator, and wound up being awarded one of the magazine's "Awards of Excellence."

You can read the whole story here, which also includes an overview of the conference as reported by Wines & Vines.

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A celebri-quote: Peggy Fleming

• Figure skating star Peggy Fleming was interviewed by sfgate.com on her fight with breast cancer and on the winemaking business, Fleming Jenkins Vineyards & Winery, she runs with husband Dr. Greg Jenkins.

Q: You've been very public about your fight (with breast cancer). How has it affected your drinking habits?

A: My life before breast cancer is pretty much the same as after. I was in such good health. I found the lump on my breast myself, five months after having a mammogram. I followed my instincts and got it checked very quickly. Now, I keep exercising and watch my diet.

Part of a healthy lifestyle is doing things in moderation -- having balance. Life is too short to drink bad wine, so we drink really good stuff in moderation. We don't drink the whole bottle. We cork it back up and save it for the next time or cook with it.

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Mm ... that ... is ... a ... fine ... vintage ...

OK, so this guy at the right isn't the latest in high-tech wine tasting technology. He's actually Robby the Robot from the "Lost In Space" TV series and films.

However, this nondescript yellow thing below actually is the aforementioned electronic tongue.

It's a hand-held device created by scientists at the Barcelona Institute of Microelectronics in Spain, who say it will tell you the grape variety and vintage at the press of a button.

It's not just a party gimmick. The device actually was devised for quality control in the field. It is made of six sensors which detect substances characteristic of specific wine varieties, such things as alcohol, sugar and acid. That helps determine the ages and varieties of the wines.

Cecilia Jiménez-Jorquera, one of the inventors, told Science Daily, "The device could be used to detect frauds committed regarding the vintage year of the wine, or the grape varieties used."

Electronic tasters are not confined to the wine industry. British researchers at the University of Warwick have created an electronic tongue with chemical membranes that eventually could help keep people safe from spoiled or contaminated food, water and drugs. It is capable of detecting the four basic tastes: sour, sweet, salt and bitter.

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