Pomegranate wine working in Israel

Pomegranate has been the fruit of the moment for several years, selling bigtime in its natural form as well as in juices and extracts. There even is a pomegranate liqueur.

According to Productscan, a product data service, 215 new pomegranate-flavored foods and beverages were brought to market in the first seven months of 2006, compared to just 19 for the whole of 2002. Pomegranate flavors are finding their way to everything from natural fruit juices to chewing gum and even sausages. Now, some enterprising folks in Israel have stepped up their use of the sweet/tart fruit for winemaking.

Father and son Gaby and Avi Nachmias, the third generation of a farming family who were founding members of Moshav Kerem Ben Zimra in Israel's Upper Galilee area near the border with Lebanon, began experimenting 10 years ago to create a new strain of the ancient fruit that would be richer in vitamins and antioxidants, sweeter and deeper in its red color than most pomegranate types, according to the Web site ISRAEL21C.

That led to more experimentation and, in 2003, the family produced 2,000 bottles of pomegranate dessert wine from their own fruit. In 2004, they founded the Rimon Winery, named after the Hebrew word for pomegranate.

"In general, pomegranates don't have enough natural sugar to ferment into alcohol on its own," Leo Open, Rimon's director of international marketing, told ISRAEL21c. "In the past, some people have added alcohol to pomegranate juice to create a form of liquor, but no one has successfully made wine. Our pomegranates are the only ones in the world that have enough sugar to do so naturally."

Starting this year, the company began featuring a product line that includes a dry wine, a dessert wine, a heavier port wine with 19% alcohol content, and a rosé wine. It also produces pomegranate vinegar and a line of cosmetics made with oils extracted from the fruit.

"Earlier this year, we started exporting to the Far East in Asia, and we are now in touch with people in U.S., Europe, and even South America," Open said.

Domestically, Rimon wines cost about $15 to $24 a bottle. The company will not speculate what distribution costs will do to pricing in the U.S.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Chile makes full-court press in New York

Wines of Chile, the trade group representing about 90 Chilean wineries, is launching its first-ever "Salud! Chilean Wine Fest" in New York, beginning Monday, Sept. 18, which is Chile's Independence Day, and running through Saturday, Sept. 30.

The program pairs Chilean wines with various restaurants and retail wine shops to offer special samples and in-store tastings for consumers.

Participating restaurants will be pouring Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, or Bordeaux-style red blends by the glass as part of
the promotion.

They include, alphabetically:

• 2 West (Ritz-Carlton Battery Park)
• AJ Maxwell's Steakhouse
• Bar Americain
• Barca 18
• Beacon
• Ben & Jack's Steakhouse
• Churrascaria Plataforma
• Churrascaria Tribeca
• Devin Tavern
• Dos Caminos Park Avenue
• Dos Caminos Soho
• Dylan Prime
• Hearth
• Hell's Kitchen
• Ipanema
• Marseille
• Maya
• Nolita House
• Pampano
• Paris Commune
• Patroon Pomaire
• Porcao Churrascaria
• Riodizio Churrascaria
• Sapa
• Savoy
• Suenos
• Thalassa
• The Rainbow Room Grill
• Town

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

One Aussie label fading away

If you're into collecting rare wines, grab a bottle of Broken Earth from Australia.

Tandou Limited, a southeastern Australian agriculture company, has decided to sell its winery at Monash as well as the Broken Earth name and get out of the wine business.

Chief executive Guy Kingwill said in an announcement that Tandou, founded in 1972, is facing significant challenges.

"We need to focus our resources and strategically have made the decision to focus our resources in the areas of the cotton farm and the orchard areas and had to make a decision to exit the wine business," he said.

Tandou began as a private company growing irrigated cereals and grazing merino sheep. It now is involved in producing both cotton and wool, owning and operating fruit orchards, and operating water management systems.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Viet entrepreneur toasts coconuts -- with his wine

Ba Thanh, a farmer and entrepreneur in Vietnam's major coconut-growing area, hasn't taken a traditional route to success.

Whereas other coconut growers concentrate on the meat, milk and fiber of the plant, he decided he wanted to turn it into wine. His first successful experiment came late last year. Now, less than a year later, his wine plant in Ben Tre province is turning out 15,000 bottles a month.

Most of the wine is consumed in-country, but he does have customers in the United Kingdom, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

Of course, coconut wine is not new. It's just that the Ben Tre success is new to the Vietnamese economy.

In the Philippines, for example, lambanog is a popular drink. It is most commonly described as coconut wine or coconut vodka. It's distilled from the sap of the unopened coconut.

Vietnamese wines still are in the developmental stage. Grapes have mainly been grown in Ninh Thuan and Binh Thuan provinces, with 6,000 acres currently under cultivation.

The climate and soil in Ninh Thuan are particularly suitable for the growth and development of vines. In this province, grapevines can be pruned at any time of the year, whuch results in 2.5 to 3 harvests per year. Cardinal is the most popular grape, a unique variety popularly grown in Vietnam with a high yield potential with vines propagated mainly by cuttings.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

NY's Trezise a man of integrity

Jim Trezise leads a hectic, complex professional life. The president of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation is continually on the go, continually juggling sometimes-conflicting priorities, often for people with conflicting personal agendas.

I speak here of simultaneously gladhanding people on behalf of the NYW&GF, schmoozing politicians to obtain favorable legislation and their personal support for the industry, traveling from vineyard to vineyard, wine competition to wine competition, trade show to trade show, viticulture educational session to ... well, I'm not typing that again. But, you get the point.

Through it all, and in an industry that often swallows the souls of lesser mortals, Trezise has earned and sustained a reputation as an upstanding, legitimate guy. That view now has been formalized with his selection as winner of the Wine Industry Integrity Award for 2006 as decided by the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission in California.

The award, created in 1998, honors individuals who have conducted their careers with integrity while making significant contributions to the wine industry. The award will be presented at a dinner in honor of Trezise at the Wine and Roses Hotel in Lodi, CA, on Friday, Nov. 3.

According to selection panel member John Ledbetter, "Jim works tirelessly promoting and educating the American public, regulators and elected officials not only about New York wines, but American wines as well. He is an extremely dedicated and effective voice for our industry, and woven through it all is his great personal integrity."

The award was no secret to a band of several dozen judges -- including yours truly -- who labored at the New York Wine & Food Classic competition in Canandaigua, NY, last month. It was mentioned by Peter Marks of COPIA, a selection panelist, at the Governor's Cup luncheon that concluded the annual event. However, I thought it better to await the formal announcement.

Trezise has headed the NYW&GF since its inception in 1985. The foundation is a private, not-for-profit organization that sponsors research and promotion programs in support of New York grapes, juice and wine.

He also is director general of the International Federation of Wines and Spirits, based in Paris, is on the executive committee of the American Vintners Association, and is co-founder of the American Wine Alliance for Research and Education. He holds a master's degree in international communications from American University in Washington, DC, and a bachelor's degree in psychology from Allegheny College.

The integrity award panel of judges this year was chaired by the wine writer Gerald D. Boyd and besides Marks included Steve Burns of O'Donnell Lane LLC, Linda Murphy of the San Francisco Chronicle, John Ledbetter of Vino Farms, Norm Roby of Decanter Magazine, Zelma Long of Zelphi Wines, and last year's honoree, Robert Steinhauer of Beringer Wine Estates.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Pinot noir dominates New Zealand test

Pinot noir was the star of this year's prestigious 12th annual Romeo Bragato Wine Awards in Queenstown, New Zealand.

Grape grower John Rutherford of Marlborough produced the winning Rutherford Pinot Noir 2004 that earned the Bragato Tropy, as well as the Mike Wolter Memorial Trophy for champion Pinot Noir.

Geoff Jensen of Omaka Springs Estates, Marlborough, took second for his Falveys Sauvignon Blanc 2006, earning the Richard Smart Trophy for Reserve Champion Wine.

Grape growers from Marlborough and the Hawke's Bay received all eight trophies and 11 champion awards.

"The Romeo Bragato Wine Awards is a special competition because it recognizes the viticultural excellence of grape growers and individual vineyards," said Philip Gregan, chief executive of New Zealand Winegrowers. "The quality of entries received were in sync with any top winemaking industry and there were some standout wines reflecting the level of innovation and expertise New Zealand has reached in grape growing and wine making."

Judges awarded 476 medals -- 53 golds, 141 silvers and 282 bronze. Entries were up 20 per cent from last year, with 667 wines received for judging.

The major awards:

• Champion of Show -- Rutherford Pinot Noir 2004, John Rutherford,
Rutherford Vineyard, Marlborough.

• Reserve Champion Wine -- Falveys Sauvignon Blanc 200http://www.blogger.com/img/gl.bold.gif6, Geoff Jensen, Omaka Springs Estates, Marlborough.

• Champion Chardonnay -- Summerhouse Marlborough Chardonnay 2005, Meric and Heather Davies, Summerhouse Vineyard, Marlborough.

• Champion Sauvignon Blanc -- Falveys Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Geoff Jensen, Omaka Springs Estates, Marlborough.

• Champion Riesling -- Charles Wiffen Riesling 2004, Charles Wiffen, Charles Wiffen Wines, Cheviot, Marlborough.

• Champion Red Wine -- Cornerstone Cabernet Merlot Malbec 2002, Robert Newton, Cornerstone Vineyard, Hawke's Bay.

• Champion Pinot Noir -- Rutherford Pinot Noir 2004, John Rutherford, Rutherford Vineyard, Marlborough.

• Champion Syrah -- Bridge Pa Louis Syrah 2004, Lisa Daysh, Bridge Pa Vineyard, Hawke's Bay.

• Champion Gewurztraminer -- Te Whare Ra Gewurztraminer 2005, Jason Flowerday, Te Whare Ra Vineyard, Marlborough.

• Champion Dessert Wine -- Villa Maria Reserve Noble Botrytis Riesling 2004, Colin and Chris Fletcher, Fletcher Vineyard, Marlborough.

• Champion Amateur Wine -- The Winery IV 2004, Chris and Sally Brownlie, Saltaire Growers, Hawke's Bay.

Click here for the complete list of medal winners. And, look here for New Zealand wineries by region.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

S. African shiraz test won by Saxenberg

Saxenberg, a South African winery using 100% own-grown fruit from its Kuils River farm near Stellenbosch, took top honors in the 2006 Wine magazine TOPS at SPAR Shiraz Challenge.

TOPS at SPAR is the leading chain of liquor and wine stores in South Africa.

The challenge drew a record 215 entries, with Saxenburg’s Private Collection 2003 taking top honors just ahead of the 2004 Koelfontein Shiraz. Each was rated 4.5 stars.

Seven others achieved 4-star status:

• Avondale Syrah 2003
• Bon Cap Syrah 2004
• Cloof The Very Sexy Shiraz 2004
• Fairview Solitude Shiraz 2003
• Groote Post Shiraz 2003
• Marianne Shiraz 2004
• Raka Biography Shiraz 2004

The winning entry came from winemaker Nico van der Merwe, the cellarmaster at Saxenburg for the past 16 years.

Judges' tasting notes for the 4.5 and 4.0 star wines:

Saxenberg Shiraz 2003
Cellar Price: $14+ (US)
"Complex nose with clean, ripe fruit balanced by pepper and spice. Palate is medium bodied with black fruit matched by firm but elegant tannins. Oak is very well managed. Long finish."

Koelfontein Shiraz 2004
Cellar Price: $8+ (US)
"Nose shows very ripe black fruit and some peppery herbaceous notes. Palate is full bodied and dense. Lots of dark fruit and firm tannins, but well integrated. Well balanced. Long finish."

Bon Cap Syrah 2004
Cellar Price: $7+ (US)
"Plenty of pepper and spice to go with abundant red fruit on the nose. Palate is medium bodied and elegant. Oak noticeable for some but should intergrate in time. Long dry finish."

Groote Post Shiraz 2003
Cellar Price: $9+ (US)
Nose is very forthcoming and shows dark fruit, some fragrant notes, spice and oak char. Palate is full bodied, intense and complex. Juicy, ripe fruit matched by elegant tannins.

Cloof The Very Sexy Shiraz 2004
Cellar Price: $9+ (US)
Dark fruit and pepper on the nose. Ripe on the palate with soft tannins. Accessible.

Avondale Syrah 2003
Cellar Price: $10+ (US)
Nose shows berry fruit and some herbaceous notes. Appealing texture in the mouth - soft and round.

Raka Biography Shiraz 2004
Cellar Price: $11+ (US)
"Forward nose showing ripe dark fruit, some perfumed notes and pepper. Palate is rich and layered. Good balance between sweet ripe fruit and oak. Long finish."

Marianne Shiraz 2004
Cellar Price: $19+ (US)
"Ripe berry fruit as well as spice and pepper on the nose. Oak quite prominent at this stage but also shows dense fruit, which suggests this wine will benefit from time in bottle."

Fairview Solitude Shiraz 2003
Cellar Price: $20+ (US)
"Nose shows red fruit, pepper and light oak notes. Palate shows concentrated fruit offset by soft, pleasing tannins and refreshing acid."

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Kentucky eases wine shipping rules

Kentucky's criminal statute against out-of-state wineries shipping wine into Kentucky has been ruled unenforceable by U.S. District Court Judge Charles Simpson in Louisville.

The ruling was in response to a lawsuit filed by Huber's Orchard & Winery (its logo is seen here) in southern Indiana, which claimed Kentucky’s law violated the Commerce Clause of the U.S. Constitution by giving preference to Kentucky businesses over out-of-state merchants.

Now, and until a new law goes into effect in January, Kentucky cannot enforce the criminal statute against out-of-state wineries shipping into Kentucky.

Dan Meyer, executive director of the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of Kentucky, said the ruling needs to be studied to see how it may impact the new law.

“This is round one,” he said. “We’ll see where to go from here.”

The state General Assembly passed a law earlier this year requiring Kentucky wineries to sell their goods through wholesalers, the same as producers of beer or spirits.

Simpson also struck down current provisions requiring consumers who want wine shipped to order it in person. That could allow orders of out-of-state wine by telephone, mail or Internet. He said requiring customers to order in person gives too much advantage to Kentucky wineries, thus violating interstate commerce protections.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks home page.

Virginia's best not fully decided

A dozen judges tested 139 wines from 32 wineries and vineyards across the state Monday during the State Fair of Virginia's 15th annual Wine Competition.

The best-in-show, however, won't be known to the public until it is announced at the 3rd annual Black Tie & Boots gala fundraiser for the State Fair's scholarship program on Sept. 27.

Meanwhile, the curious will have to be content to know who won the major category gold medals. Afton Mountain Vineyards, Delfosse Vineyards & Winery, Ingleside Plantation Vineyards, Rappahannock Cellars and Stone Mountain Vineyards took two golds each. The gold medalists:

• Afton Mountain Vineyards, Estate Bottled Chardonnay, 2004
• Afton Mountain Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, 2005
• Chateau Morrisette, Cabernet Franc, 2003
• Cooper Vineyards, Norton, 2004
• Delfosse Vineyards & Winery, Cabernet Franc, 2005
• Delfosse Vineyards & Winery, Chardonnay, 2005
• Horton Vineyards, The Tower Series Cabernet Franc, 2002
• Ingleside Plantation Vineyards, Ingleside Merlot Reserve, 2002
• Ingleside Plantation Vineyards, Ingleside Virginia Gold, 2002
• Lake Anna, Barrel Select Chardonnay, 2005
• Oakencroft Vineyard & Winery, Oakencroft Merlot Reserve Monticello, 2004
• Prince Michel Vineyards, Prince Michel Cabernet Franc, NV
• Rappahannock Cellars, Cabernet Franc Reserve, 2004
• Rappahannock Cellars, Meritage Reserve, 2004
• Shenandoah Vineyards, Founder Reserve Chambourchin, Lot 03 NV
• Stone Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay Reserve, 2005
• Stone Mountain Vineyards, Merlot, 2005
• Tarara Winery, Tarara Winery Merlot, 2004
• Waterford Vineyards, Barrel Select Chardonnay, 2005
• Woodland Vineyard, Woodland Vineyard Chardonnay Barrel Select Virginia, 2005

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Cease-fire helping Israeli grape harvest

In the whole scheme of precarious life in the Middle East, making wine seems like incidental stuff.

However, winemaking is part of Israel's economy and the current cessation in hostilities with Lebanon-based Hezbollah is good news for people involvbed in that enterprise.

The cease-fire is allowing Israelis to harvest an especially promising grape crop that could prove to be the nation's best ever. Numerous soldiers just back from combat can be seen helping with the harvest.

"At the last minute," Noam Jacoby told an Associated Press reporter. He is the manager of the Recanati Winery, whose vineyards on the Lebanese border were declared a closed military zone during the war. Besides a few rows of vines that were plowed by tanks, Jacoby said, "it's not too bad."

Grape harvesting began this week in northern Israel, the richest grape-growing region. The weather has been perfect this season, but 34 days of fighting threatened the ability to take advantage of it.

"Treatments that had to be done were missed," Ronit Badler of the Galil Mountain Winery told the AP. "The wine, the grapes look good, but we'll have to see what happens."

Israeli wines have progressed in recent years beyond the stereotypical thick, sweet vintages and have been getting encouraging reviews from wine critics. The northern part of Israel is ideally suited to wine-grape cultivation because of its volcanic soil and its relatively cool climate with low temperature differentials between day and night.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

2 icons lead the winners in NY Wine Classic

Photo by William M. Dowd

CANANDAIGUA, NY -- Two iconic Finger Lakes wineries came out on top of a record field in the 21st annual New York Wine & Food Classic judging this week.

A 2005 Dry Riesling from Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards won the Governor’s Cup award, emblematic of the best of show. Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars was rated Winery of the Year for the highest point total in the judging.

The event, held at the Inn on the Lake here at Canandaigua Lake in the western Finger Lakes near Rochester, drew 703 entries from New York-only vineyards in the official regions of Long Island, the Hudson Valley, the Finger Lakes, the Niagara Escarpment, Lake Erie, and other regions of New York State.

I was among 24 judges from across the nation and England, with a heavy contingent from California. Judges included prominent wine writers, restaurateurs, retailers, and wine educators. Four-judge panels determined the initial awards in blind tastings, with top-scoring wines evaluated by all 24 of us for Best of Category and Governor’s Cup awards on the second day, also in a blind tasting.

The awards were announced at the Governor’s Cup Celebration luncheon at the New York Wine & Culinary Center (seen above) that was formally opened in June. The restaurant prepared a special multi-course luncheon using all New York ingredients and paired with award-winning wines from the 2005 competition, which was also held at the Inn on the Lake.

The Classic, organized by the indefatigable Teresa Knapp of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation headed by the equally indefatigable Jim Trezise, was open to all 239 New York wineries. This year 30 double gold (unanimous vote by the panel), 53 gold, 200 silver, and 249 bronze medals were awarded.

The best-of-category awards:

Best White -- Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards, 2005 Dry Riesling.
Best Sparkling -- Chateau Frank, 2000 Blanc de Noirs.
Best Rose/Blush -- Chateau Lafayette Reneau, Emperor’s Blush.
Best Red -- Jamesport Vineyards, 2004 Cabernet Franc.
Best Specialty Wine -- Baldwin Vineyards, Strawberry Wine.
Best Dessert Wine -- Wolffer Estate Vineyards, 2005 Late Harvest Chardonnay.

The best-of-class awards:

Best Vinifera Sparkling Wine -- Chateau Frank, 2000 Blanc de Noirs.
Best Chardonnay -- Bedell Cellars/Corey Creek Vineyards, 2005 Reserve Chardonnay.
Best Dry Riesling -- Hermann J. Wiemer, 2005 Dry Riesling.
Best Semi-Dry Riesling -- Mazza Chautauqua Cellars, 2005 Riesling.
Best Semi-Sweet Riesling -- Chateau Lafayette Reneau, 2005 Johannisberg Riesling.
Best Gewurztraminer -- (tie) Bedell Cellars/Corey Creek Vineyards, 2005 Gewurztraminer, and Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, 2005 Gewurztraminer.
Best Cayuga White -- Swedish Hill Vineyards, 2005 Cayuga White.
Best Other White Hybrid -- Atwater Estate Vineyards, 2005 Vidal Blanc.
Best Other Native Varietal -- Thirsty Owl Wine Co., 2005 Diamond.
Best White French American Hybrid -- Red Newt Cellars, Red Newt White.
Best Niagara -- Red Newt Cellars, Blue Newt White.
Best Native White Blend -- Lucas Vineyards, Miss Behavin’.
Best Blush -- Chateau Lafayette Reneau, Emperor’s Blush.
Best Cabernet Franc -- Jamesport Vineyards, 2004 Cabernet Franc.
Best Merlot -- Peconic Bay Winery, 2001 Merlot.
Best Cabernet Sauvignon -- Chateau Lafayette Reneau, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best Pinot Noir -- Chateau Lafayette Reneau, 2002 Pinot Noir.
Best Other Red Vinifera -- Keuka Spring Vineyards, 2005 Lemberger.
Best French American Hybrid Red Blend -- Lucas Vineyards, 2005 Tug Boat Red.
Best Mead -- Torrey Ridge Winery, Scarlet Red.
Best Fruit Wine -- Baldwin Vineyards, Strawberry Wine.
Best Late Harvest -- Wolffer Estate Vineyards, 2005 Late Harvest Chardonnay.
Best Ice/Iced Wine -- Lakewood Vineyards, 2005 Borealis.

Six wines were disqualified from the second-day judging because they did not meet the minimum of 100 cases available.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Judges pick the best of Missouri

Six in-state wineries earned "Best of the Bunch Honors" in the 2006 Missouri Wine Competition.

The competition, sponsored by the Missouri Wine & Grape Board, drew 207 wines from 24 Missouri wineries.

Best of Class awards in nine categories went to these wines:

• Best Sparkling wine - Stone Hill Winery 2002 Blanc de Blancs
• Best Dry White wine - Montelle Winery 2005 Seyval Blanc
• Best Dry Red wine - Tower Rock Winery 2004 Cynthiana
• Best Semi-Dry White wine - Augusta Winery 2004 Vignoles
• Best Semi-Dry Red wine - Augusta Winery Reserve Red
• Best Sweet White wine - Stone Hill Winery 2005 Vignoles
• Best Sweet Red wine - Augusta Winery River Valley Red
• Best Dessert/Ice wine - St. James Winery 2004 Late Harvest Vignoles
• Best Dessert/Fortified wine - Mount Pleasant Winery 2002 Vintage Port

The Governor's Cup, the ultimate award for a Missouri winery, will be awarded to one of the Best of Class winners on Sept. 28 at the opening of the "Missouri Wine: History Uncorked" exhibit at the Mercantile Library in St. Louis. Details on the event: (800) 392-9463.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Vino in need of veritas?

Consider this statement:

" ... (O)ver the last 20 years or so, the Washington State Liquor Control Board has gotten pretty casual about enforcing the letter of the law. These days the biggest selling 'wine' in Washington state is the 5-liter boxed product bearing the Franzia label. Retailing for about $8 a box, it bears the description 'table wine with natural flavors.'

"Discard the 'table' and 'natural,' which have no legal meaning at all, and you're left with 'wine with flavors.' Look back up at the definition and you'll see that under Washington state law, Franzia boxes aren't 'wine.' And if they're not wine pure and simple, the law goes on to require that the label must bear 'a truthful and adequate statement of composition.' And even then, such products can be called only 'specialty wine,' if not 'artificial wine' or 'imitation wine."

That's the position taken by writer Roger Downey in a Seattle Weekly commentary.

Agree or disagree, it's quite an interesting topic, particularly with Washington's status as a giant among American wine producing regions.

International Wine & Spirits results are in

Photo by William M. Dowd

The results are in for the International Wine and Spirit Competition, held in London each year.

Here are the best-in-class gold medal winners in the wine competition. For winners in the spirits competition, go to Dowd's Spirits Notebook for a complete rundown.

RED WINES

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, 2000
Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella DOC Monteci, 2000

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, 2001
Il Bosco Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC, 2001

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, 2003
Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC Classico, 2003

• Barolo DOCG - Piedmonte - 2001
Marengo Vini Barolo Fontanazza, 2001

• Beaujolais Village AC
Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages, 2005

• Blaufrankisch - Burgenland
Weingut Giefing 2003 Blaufrankisch Reserve

• Blended Red Wine - Barbera Dominated - Isola Dei Nuraghi IGT
Cantina Sociale di Dolianova "Terresicci" Red IGT Isola Dei Nuragai, 2003

• Blended Red Wine - Brazil
Aurora Cellars Proprietary Red, 2004

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Franc Dominated - Stellenbosch
Dornier Donatus Red, 2003

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Chile - 2001
Carmen Winemaker's Reserve Red, 2001

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Stellenbosch - 2001
Meerlust Rubicon, 2001

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Stellenbosch – 2003
Vergelegen Estate Red - 2003

Lanzerac Classic, 2002
• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Traditional Blends - England

Denbies Greenfields, 2003

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Coonawarra - 2001
Parker Terra Rossa First Growth, 2001

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Maipo Valley - 2004
Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Vineya, 2004

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Mendoza - 2003
Trapiche Medalla, 2003

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Rapel Valley
Vina Misiones de Rengo SA Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004

• Cabernet Sauvignon Blend - Napa
Oakville Ranch Robert's Blend, 2001

• Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - McLaren Vale
Geoff Merrill Pimpala Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, 2000

• Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - Stellenbosch
Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Laureat, 2004

• Carmenère - Colchagua Valley - 2004
Arboleda Carmenère, 2004

• Chianti Classico DOCG - 2003
Brolio Chianti Classico (Ricasoli), 2003

• DOCa - Rioja - Crianza - Red Blends - 2001
Domecq Bodegas Azpilicueto Reserva, 2001

• DOCa - Rioja - Crianza - Red Blends - 2003
United Wineries Bodegas Langunilla Crianza, 2003

• DOCa - Rioja - Crianza - Tempranillo
Viña Diezmo Crianza, 2002

• Douro DOC - 2003
Escada d'Oro Reserve, 2003
Chateau La Tour Carnet, 2003

WHITE WINES

• Alsace Grand Cru AC, Riesling
Cave de Turckheim Riesling Grand Cru Brand, 2002

• Beaujolais Village AC
Sainsbury's White Burgundy, Rodet, 2004

• Beerenauslese - Austria
Lenz Moser Prestige Beerenauslese, 2004

• Botrytis Affected Wine - Sémillon - Australia
De Bortoli Noble One, 2004

• Botrytis Affected Wine - Western Cape
Nederburg Noble Late Harvest, 2005

• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Australia - NV
Arras Bottle Fermented, 2000

• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Traditional Blends – England
Nyetimber Classic Cuvée, 1998

• Brunello di Montalcino DOCG - Tuscany
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Greppone Mazzi, 2000

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Coonawarra - 2003
Nugan Estate Alcira Vineyard Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Stellenbosch - 2003
Saxenburg Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003

• Chablis Grand Cru AC
Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Reserve de L'Obédience, 2003

• Champagne - Prestige Cuvée - 1983 - Blanc de Blancs
Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires, 1983
De Venoge Grand Vin Des Princes, 1993

• Champagne - Prestige Cuvée - 1985 - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir
Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie, 1985
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame, 1995

• Champagne - Prestige Cuvée - 1998 - Blends
Champagne Bourgeois Cuvée du Dernier Siécle, 1998

• Champagne - Prestige Cuvée - 1999 - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir
Champagne Jacquart Cuvée Allegra Vintag, 1999

• Champagne - Prestige Cuvée - Non Vintage - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir
Charles Heidsieck Reserve Charlie Mis en Cave en, 1990

• Champagne - Vintage - Blanc de Blancs - 1998
Champagne Duval Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay, 1998

• Champagne - Vintage - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - 1989
Charles Heidsieck Brut Millesime, 1989

• Champagne - Vintage - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - 1996
Piper Heidsieck Millesime, 1996

• Champagne - Vintage - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - 1998
Piper Heidsieck Millesime, 1998

• Chardonnay - Casablanca Valley - 2004
Laroche Rio Vino Chardonnay Vina Punto Alto, 2004

• Chardonnay - Casablanca Valley - 2005
Arboleda Chardonnay, 2005

• Chardonnay - Marlborough - 2004
Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay, 2004

• Chardonnay - Monterey
Riva Ranch Reserve Chardonnay, 2003

• Chardonnay - Stellenbosch - 2004
Uva Mira Vineyards Selection Chardonnay, 2004

• Chenin Blanc - Botrytis - Regions of South Africa
Nederburg Private Bin Edelkeur Noble Late Harvest, 2004

• Chenin Blanc - Coastal Region
Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc, 2004

• Chenin Blanc - Stellenbosch and Wards
Ken Forrester FM Chenin Blanc 2003 Stellenbosch

• Côtes de Castillon AC
Chateau d'Aiguilhe 2001 Cotes de Castillon

• DO Priorato - Red Blend
Coma Vella, 2003
Priorat Coma Vella, 2003

• Douro DOC - 2004
Sogrape Vinhos SA Casa Ferreirinha Quinta da Leda Vinha do Pombal, 2004

• Gewürztraminer - Israel
Sha'al Gewürztraminer, 2004

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Indy International picks its winners

Nearly 4,000 wines were entered in the 2006 version of the Indiana Commercial
Vintners & Amateur Winemakers' Indy International Wine Competition held this month.

Of the 3,859 entries, 341 received gold medals,, 1,156 silvers and 1,370 bronzes. Wines were judged in Commercial, the sub-category Indiana Commercial, and Amateur categories.

The winningest Indiana winery was the Huber Winery of Borden, IN. The Indiana Winegrowers Guild's state wine champion award went to Larry A. Kreke of Indianapolis for his Liebfraumilch Scolley Winery, Muller-Thurgau 2006. Mahlon Butz of West Lafayette won the Indiana-Grown Amateur champion award.

The American Airlines Trophy for best of show grand champion wine went to Mission Hill Family Estate of Westbank, BC, for the Canadian operation's Five Vineyards Riesling Ice Wine 2004.

Other American Airlines Trophies were presented as follows:

• Red Wine -- Martin Family Vineyards of Healdsburg, CA, for its Martin Petite Sirah 2003.

• White Wine -- Sileni Cellar Selections of New Zealand for its Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006.

• Sparkling Wine -- Champagne Pommery of Reims, France, for its Millesime Grand Cru Champagne 1998.

• Dessert Wine -- Foster’s Wine Estates, Australia, for its Trafford Tawny Port.

• Rose/Blush Wine -- Harlow Ridge Winery of Ceres, CA, for its Blush, Lodi 2005.

COMMERCIAL TROPHIES

• Winningest Winery -- V. Sattui of St. Helena, CA.

• Fruit Wine -- Cooper’s Hawk Winery of Orland Park, IL, for its rhubarb wine.

• Mead -- Meadery of the Rockies, Palisade, CO

The competition coordinator for the event was Ellen Butz. A complete rundown on medal winners in all categories is available here.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

NZ winemaker bucks the trend

Neighboring Australia is letting its grapes rot on the vines and in the fields to combat an oversupply from further depressing prices in its wine industry.

But, in New Zealand some growers are bragging about a bumper harvest.

Marlborough, the industry giant that produces Grove Mill and Sanctuary wines, has reported increased after-tax profits as a result of a good harvest and the dropping value of the New Zealand dollar which helps export business, according to company CEO Rob White (seen here).

"The 2006 harvest is considerably up on the 2005 harvest and we are very comfortable with the quality. A bigger harvest produces better economies because it lowers our cost structure," White said.

The forecast was based on a continued decline in the Kiwi dollar, which had helped export sales. But while export prospects were brighter – the company exports 64 per cent of production with sales strong in the U.S. – prices at home were under pressure.

"It's quite brutal. There's increased competition out of Australia ... . There's a lot more pressure from retailers in terms of price and supplier margins. We are seeing prices squeezed."

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

SA's Bilton broadens its scope

The new winemaker at one of South Africa's best wineries is making his mark very quickly.

Rudi de Wet (seen here) has created Bilton Wines' first white, a Bilton Sauvignon Blanc 2006. Bilton has built its reputation on its red wines.

De Wet and consultant Giorgio Dalla Cia didn't follow the usual Sauvignon Blanc style, adding a touch of Sémillon for its brilliant green straw color and tropical fruit notes.

Bilton's vineyards are located high on the slopes of the Helderberg, where the climate encourages slow ripening of the grapes and the development of several varietal flavour.

The new wine is expected to retail domestically at about $6 a bottle, jumping to about $9 or $10 once it is exported to the U.S.

Cinzano wooing the ladies

Cinzano isn't just the same old vermouth plus a name on cafe table umbrellas.

The Italian company is adding to its product lineup for the first time in 144 years with two new varieties of its wine-based drink, Spritzz Up, which are designed to be drunk with lemonade or tonic over ice.

"Fruity Wine" and "Cheeky Red," says the company's marketing manager, are aimed at women in the 18-30 age niche.

"We've looked at the market, done our research and believe there's a sizeable opportunity for a wine-based drink that you mix with lemonade or tonic in large wine glasses over ice," Karen Crowley said in a statement.

Spritzz Up is 14.5% alcohol by volume. The primary market will be the United Kingdom, but with an eye toward taking the drink to the U.S. in the near future.

Cinzano has been making vermouth since 1796 and is particularly known for its red, sweet version called Cinzano Rosso although it also has a white called Cinzano Bianco plus Cinzano Extra Dry, and rosé, lemon and orange versions.

The brand is owned by Campari Group.

To Dowd's Spirits Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Wine Notebook latest entry.
To Dowd's Brews Notebook latest entry.
Back to Dowd On Drinks

Illinois latest to give re-corking the OK

Come Jan. 1, 2007, you can count Illinois among the growing number of states allowing re-corking of wines purchased with restaurant meals.

More than 30 states now allow restaurants to re-cork unfinished portions of wine bought by customers. Gov. Rod Blagojevich signed legislation Monday that will allow patrons to take one partially consumed bottle with them, providing all laws involving transportation of alcohol are followed.

In most cases, that means the bottle must be recorked, put in a secure bag, and carried in a locked glove compartment or trunk of the vehicle. Otherwise, the Illinois Vehicle Code still prohibits transportation of alcoholic beverages in open containers.

John Cullerton, D-Chicago, who sponsored the legislation in the state senate, said he did so because it may reduce the number of drunken drivers because diners would no longer feel the need to drink the entire bottle before they leave the restaurant.

Wine Spectator does the honors

Wine Spectator magazine has selected three establishments to become new Grand Award winners in its annual global rankings of what it refers to as "restaurants passionate about wine."

That brings to 77 the number of Grand Award winners, rather exclusive company when one considers we're talking the whole world, and that the total number of places honored at one of three award levels is just 3,772.

The newbies are:

• Blackberry Farm, in Walland, TE, in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains. It has 4,200 selections among 90,000 bottles.

• Restaurant Latour, at the Crystal Springs Resort in Hardyston in northern New Jersey. It has 2,800 selections among 28,000 bottles.

• Sona, in Los Angeles. It has 2,200 selections among 21,000 bottles.

The full listings of award winners are in the "Dining Guide" issue of Wine Spectator dated Aug. 31.