Heat spells trouble for ice wines

You don't need grapes to make wine, but you do need ice to make ice wine. And, therein lies a problem.

This spectacularly mild winter is affecting more than ski centers and heating fuel distributors. With temperatures routinely running in the 50s and 60s in many areas on both sides of the U.S.-Canadian border where much of the ice wine is produced, necessary conditions for harvesting grapes for ice wine manufacture simply are not there.

"We're not getting the lows, and grapes are starting to dehydrate on the vines,'' Doug Miles told me. He operates Miles Wine Cellars on the west shore of Seneca Lake in New York's Finger Lakes, usually a good spot for ice wine grapes.

"Normally, you need temperatures to get down to about 8 degrees Farenheit,'' he said. "Then, you start picking at about 2 in the morning and keep going until about a half-hour before sunrise to get the crop in. We've been experiencing temperatures in the 50s and even the 60s this winter and it's definitely going to take its toll.''

Jim Trezise, head of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation which works to educate consumers and promote products on behalf of the state's 200-plus wineries, is a lifelong Finger Lakes resident usually looking ahead to harvests and production statistics. Not when I contacted him the other day, however.

"I can't imagine 2007 ice wine, given that it's 60 degrees and I'm enjoying a glass of chardonnay on my deck next to the lake,'' he said.

North of the border, the situation is about the same. Reports Trezise, " ... The Ontario folks are sweating bullets this year because of the mild winter, but still holding out hope. ... This would clearly hurt Ontario more than New York, but none of us in this industry want anyone, anywhere to be hurt by weather, as we all endure it.''

The normal ice wine yield is 40 gallons from a ton of grapes. It takes about four times as many grapes to make ice wine as it does standard wine, thus the price points usually are higher for the sweeter, thicker products. Growers are expecting that output to drop to the 25-30 gallon range because of the warm spell, which no doubt will drive up prices even further as well as cutting into availability. The latter is a common problem for many New York wine producers who don't churn out wines in great abundance.

Legalities prevent winemakers from simply slapping an ice wine label on their products. In the U.S., a product cannot be called an ice wine unless the grapes are harvested and pressed while frozen, meaning you cannot pick them, then freeze them, then process them. Canadian regulations are similar.

All is not yet lost, Doug Miles points out.

"We still have until about late February before we start ruling out any sort of sufficient freeze, but it's not an ideal situation. Also, at the current temperatures, the vines are not as winter hardy as we might hope because they haven't had a chance to toughen up.''

Given the historic cold winters in New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania and other Northeastern states that regularly produce ice wine, a cold snap in the next few weeks could save the day. Or, last-minute harvesting without benefit of a freeze would at least let producers label their products "late harvest'' wine, a style enjoyed by many consumers but not as pricey -- and, therefore, not as lucrative -- as ice wine.

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Keeping the 'bs' in PBS

The Public Broadcasting System, seeing the money rolling into network and cable stations from cashing in on the insatiable public demand for reality shows, has decided to get in on the act.

PBS' "Wine Makers," a reality competition set for 2007, will pit 12 contestants vying for the chance to launch their own label.

The twist is that financing the series requires a new sponsorship model, rather than the method PBS has long used to keep its pristine character from being besmirched by godless commercialism,

Instead of quick, nearly-generic tag lines presented along with the PBS underwriters' logos, the new show will provide what PBS calls "top-tier sponsors" a five- to 15-second spot before and after the half-hour show.

Let's review. Sponsors will give PBS money to give them air time for 5- to 15-second spots about their products and services. Funny, in the real world they refer to those as, how you say, commercials !

The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, the former Paso Robles Vintners & Growers Association which promotes wines from California's central coast, is the first to sign up.

Plans call for the eight-episode series to employ the usual toss-'em-out-weekly model, with the original field of 12 contestants pared by half in the first two episodes. The contestants will live together like other reality series, and a rotating group of judges will decide on their skills in various aspects of winemaking.

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Jacob's Creek popping its corks

It's about time to retire all those old jokes about bad wines and screw caps.

Jacob's Creek (the namesake stream is seen here), a respectable name on the Australian wine scene, is getting rid of corks on all its wines and using twist-off caps to, as a company announcement put it, safeguard the "quality and consistency" of its wines.

All of the winery's lower-priced wines will convert in the next few months, to be followed by the same move for its premium Heritage Range wines by late in 2007.

Adrian Atkinson, development director at parent company Pernod Ricard, said in a statement, "'Responding to the demands of retailers, consumers and our wine-making team, the decision has been taken to put the entire Jacob's Creek range under screw cap in order to preserve fruit flavours and guarantee consistently high quality."

The matter of screwtops vs. corks has been heatedly debated for several years. Proponents of the change say screwtops prevent contamination of wines. Those in favor of corks say the small amount of oxygen they allow into the wine helps the aging process.

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Putting all their wines in one state basket

New York wines have a continually growing reputation, particularly in the realm of rieslings and red blends. But trying to find a source offering a wide range of what the state's 240 wineries produce is next to impossible.

People living in or near the state capital, however, will be finding their search a lot easier if a new wine shop in the old mill city of Cohoes, just outside Albany, takes hold.

The Harmony House Marketplace, located in a 175-year-old building on Remsen Street, opened this week selling only New York brand wines. The owners are Diane Conroy-LaCivita and Jane LaCivita Clemente.

Conroy-LaCivita, a former municipal clerk and high school social studies teacher, said she and her partner will carry about 138 brands from 40-50 wineries in their 700-square-foot shop. Their goal is to raise that to 90 to 100 wineries.

The city of Cohoes helped the entrepreneurs with grants and other incentives. Conroy-LaCivita said the upfront investment for renovations and other expenses was more than $300,000.

One of the major marketing problems New York wineries traditionally have faced is that few but the very largest companies -- Dr. Konstantin Frank, Herman Weimer and the like -- have enough customers outside their immediate neighborhoods. Most are small-scale producers whose output is snapped up by visitors to the wineries and by nearby stores and restaurants.

The new partners latched on to the New York-only concept after taking several classes at Schenectady County Community College, then embarking on some self-education in the wine world.

"We realized New York had a wide range of very good wines,'' Conroy-LaCivita told me. "We like the idea of supporting state businesses, the ecology, sustainable agriculture, and all those things can work together.''

The shop owners also like the idea of building relationships directly with the winemakers and wineries, something they wouldn't be doing if they handled imported wines.

"We've already visited many of the wineries in the state and started developing close relationships with some of them,'' Conroy-LaCivita says, although she concedes there sometimes is a problem with availability of small-batch wines and
wholesale pricing to vendors.

Harmony House Marketplace (238-2233), 184 Remsen St., is open every day, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays. Tastings are scheduled each Friday.

For a video, created by Kathleen Lisson, with the entrepreneurs click here.

Just what wine would a wine buyer buy if a ...

If the buyer for the largest wine superstore in the United States were asked to select a mixed case of wines from the 15,000 his store stocks, what would he choose?

If you guessed a propensity for California labels, you'd be correct. Three of Shawn Lightfoot's picks from among 12 in the case were from California, with threee others also coming from the West Coast, two from Washington and one from Oregon.

The selection was done at the behest of U.S. News & World Report. The magazine contacted Lightfoot at Applejack Wine & Spirits in Denver and asked him to select a case using any vintage or variety, but limited to a total price of $250.

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They wood, if they could

The hottest topic in the world of French wines these days is the controversial debate over the government's decision to allow the French to put wood in their wine, as opposed to wine in wood, to speed up the aging process.

However, as reported on Decanter.com, the French agriculture minister yesterday ducked the controversial issue of wood chips in a speech to open Vinitech, being held this year in Bordeaux, France.

"Dominique Bussereau, speaking on the first day of Vinitech, the world's largest wine techniques and machinery trade fair, said he welcomed the modernization of French wine but made no mention of the divisive issue of wood chips, recently banned for use in AOC winemaking," Decanter.com reported.

"'The state encourages the modernization of the French system of wine segmentation, in order to adapt to evolving consumer demand,' Bussereau said. 'The aim is to conserve our leadership'."

Use of wood chips in winemaking was banned by INAO, the French regulatory body, this month, two months after the EU legalized use. Prior to the ruling seven appellations Anjou, Muscadet, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur, Medoc, Haut-Médoc and Côtes du Rhône were granted special dispensations, allowing experimental use of wood chips as of the 2006 harvest.

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Indiana gets third wine trail

Indiana has gained its third wine trail, a joint effort of seven different central Indiana wineries under the simple title Indy Wine Trail.

The member wineries: Buck Creek Winery (Indianapolis), Chateau Thomas Winery (Plainfield), Easley Winery (Indianapolis), Ferrin’s Fruit Winery (Carmel), Grape Inspirations Winery (Carmel), Mallow Run Winery (Bargersville), and Simmons Winery (Columbus).

Upcoming events will include celebrations around Valentine’s Day, a barbecue feast during the summer and visits with the winemakers. The new trail features a "passport" program which allows visitors to receive a free wine glass after visiting all seven wineries.

For an update and live links to wine trails in Indiana and every state in the nation, visit Dowd's Guide to American Wine Trails.

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SA picks its top young winemaker

Youth, as they say, must be served. In this instance, however, youth was doing the serving.

For the sixth year, the Diners Club of South Africa sought a winner for its "Young Winemaker of the Year" award, given to the top 30 or younger wine producers in the country.

Francois Agenbag (seen here) of Wolseley, Breedekloof emerged victorious from a field of 62 Dry Red Wine entries. Competitors were allowed to serve the judges blended or single varietal reds, wood-aged or not.

Agenbag's wine is sold under the Seven Oaks label, made at Mountain Ridge, formerly known as the Romansrivier co-operative. His winning entry was Seven Oaks 6+1 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2004.

Judges' tasting notes: "Powerful blackberry, chocolate, with spicy oak backing. Big, rich and full in the mouth with ripe, balanced tannins and well controlled oak. Sweet-fruited throughout. Long, fruit-filled finish. Lots of development potential."

In the other award given by the club, "Winemaker of the Year" went to Gottfried Mocke, winemaker for the Franschhoek Vineyards label, for his Chamonix Chardonnay Reserve 2005.

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Tempranillo emerging in New Zealand

Seeing a new brand emerge with a medal in a prestigious competition is one thing. Seeing a new variety win its class is another.

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo 2005 was awarded the top trophy in the "Other Red Varieties" class at the 2006 Air New Zealand Wine Awards in Taradale, NZ, Sunday night. It is the only New Zealand-produced wine of this variety available in the market, although several other growers have the grapes planted.

Tempranillo is a Spanish grape variety that growers are successfully utilizing in the Hawke’s Bay area that has a warm climate and similar terroir to Europe.

“New Zealand consumers are quite conservative about the wines they drink. It’s up to the industry to offer them something new, educating their palates on a wider range of flavor profiles,” chief winemaker John Hancock said when he accepted the award. “Having a new variety recognized at this level is a big step and will encourage consumers to try something other than Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.”

The Tempranillo 2005 was aged 12 months, predominantly in French oak barrels. It is Trinity Hill's second vintage of the style. It also won a gold medal in the "Other red wines" category in the recent AMP Mercedes Benz Hawke’s Bay Wine Awards.

Go here for a full look at the Air New Zealand winners in all categories.

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W(h)ining over a 'no' vote

Massachusetts voters on election day rejected Ballot Question 1, a proposal that would have allowed for wine sales in food stores by granting a new type of locally issued liquor license.

“I think voters understood this thing for what it was. Why do we need to double the amount of liquor licences in the state and add 3,000 licenses?,” said Joe Baerlein, a spokesman for the No on One Campaign Committee. “They soundly rejected that.”

On the other side, the supermarket industry said it was the opposition's scare campaign that thwarted their attempt to gain a foothold in the retail wine market.

“We knew from the beginning that changing the status quo regarding wine sales was going to be a tough fight,” Chris Flynn, president of the Massachusetts Food Association, said in a statement. “The liquor industry spent millions of dollars to maintain their monopoly on wine sales and, unfortunately, Massachusetts voters were misled by a negative, scare campaign.”

No matter who is right, the votes are what counted, and the "no" votes won by about 14%.

About 40 grocery stores have full liquor licenses or beer-and-wine licenses under a state law that limits chains to three licenses each.

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French wood chip debate takes new turn

Barely six months ago, I reported under the headline "Worried French put wood in wine, not vice versa" that "The sagging French wine industry often tries to put a good face on its situation despite increased global competition and less than stellar sales. That now will be a little more difficult to accept since the French government plans to allow vintners to flavor their wine with wood shavings, a technique French winemakers have derided as the work of lesser mortals."

Adding wood chips to wine to increase oak flavor has long been practiced by some winemakers in the U.S., Australia and South America. The idea is to avoid the cost and time involved in aging wines in oak barrels.

"The use of wood shavings is already authorized by the European Community and will soon be entered into national regulation," France's Agriculture Ministry said at the time in a formal statement, an effort to "open up the range of authorized winemaking practices."

Wine purists in France predictably objected to the move, although many in the industry were all in favor of it.

Now, France's National Appellations Institute (INAO) has proposed a law to allow the nation's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) regions to ban or limit the use of oak wood chips in at least some wines.

Its logic to ban use of chips across more than 460 AOC regions is concern the practice may damage their quality image. It proposed the move even before the European Union has had a chance to publish new wine rules allowing wood chips to be used.

The INAO position, like the controversial practice that spawned it, was not met with universal support.

“INAO no longer knows what it is doing. It has been completely wrong-footed by European Commission plans to reform the wine sector,” Jean Clavel, head of the Coteaux Languedoc AOC region, told BeverageDaily.com. “Using oak chips in some wines can add a little complexity, and helps them to respond to international demand from consumers who are used to woody aromas in their wines.”

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Chirac's City Hall collection tops $1 million

The much-anticipated auction of a wine collection created for Paris's City Hall when Jacques Chirac was mayor has brought in $1.2 million, 75 percent higher than pre-event estimates. (Click here for a video report on the event.)

The catalyst was a bidding war that developed between British and Chinese merchants. Stephen Williams, managing director of London's Antique Wine Co., spent 10,000 euros (US$12,561.83) for the most expensive labels in the catalog, two bottles of 1986 Romanee Conti with a value estimated before the sale of 1,500 euros (US$1,884).

Chirac, who went on to become president of France, had acquired nearly 5,000 bottles of such rare labels as Petrus and Margaux. Bertrand Delanoe, the current Socialist mayor, ordered the dispersal of the collection through the Oct. 20-21 auction.

"This was about fetishism,'' Claude Maratier told the Bloomberg News Service. "The two wine merchants saw great potential in buying Paris city wines, in buying Chirac's wines. It is a teaser for their clients.''

Maratier is the independent expert on the sale organized by Paris auction house SVV Giafferi, which reported final figures today.

Bidders ranged from an unidentified West African billionaire represented by his trader to an anonymous wine merchant calling in bids from Monaco. Proceeds from the auction will go to the city treasury for general use.

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IWSC's best of the best

A veritable downpour of medals showered on entries in the 2006 International Wine & Spirit Competition held in Australia.

The IWSC reported a record 6,000 entries in the competition which also saw the number of participating countries rising to 73 this year.

Here are some the best-in-class winners among the wines. Click here for a list of all medal winners in all classes.

WHITES

• Alsace Grand Cru AC - Riesling: Cave de Turckheim Riesling Grand Cru Brand 2002, Cave de Turckheim.

• Botrytis Affected Wine - Sémillon - Australia: De Bortoli Noble One 2004, De Bortoli Wines Pty Ltd.

• Botrytis Affected Wine - Western Cape: Nederburg Noble Late Harvest 2005, Distell.

• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Australia - NV: Arras Bottle Fermented 2000, Hardy Wine Co.

• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Traditional Blends - England: Nyetimber Classic Cuvee 1998, Nyetimber Vineyard.

• Chablis Grand Cru AC: Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Reserve de L'Obedience 2003, Domaine laroche SA.

REDS

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC - Veneto - 2000: Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella DOC Monteci 2000, Societa Agricola Monteci S.S.

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC - Veneto - 2001: Il Bosco Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2001, Gerardo Cesari SPA.

• Amarone della Valpolicella DOC - Veneto - 2003: Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2003, Cantine Salvalai Srl.

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Chile - 2001: Carmen Winemaker's Reserve Red 2001, Vina Carmen.

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Stellenbosch - 2001: Meerlust Rubicon 2001, Meerlust.

• Blended Red Wine - Cabernet Sauvignon Dominated - Stellenbosch - 2003: Vergelegen Estate Red 2003, Vergelegen Wines.

• Blendhttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.bold.gifed Red Wine - Merlot Dominated - Regions of South Africa: Lanzerac Classic 2002, Lanzerac Estate.

• Bottle Fermented Sparkling Wine - Traditional Blends - England: Denbies Greenfields 2003, Denbies Wine Estate.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Coonawara - 2001: Parker Terra Rossa First Growth 2001, Parker Coonawara.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Coonawara - 2003: Nugan Estate Alcira Vineyard Coonawara Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Nugan Estate.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Maipo Valley 2004: Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Vineya 2004, Vina valvedieso.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Mendoza - 2003: Trapiche Medalla 2003, Trapiche.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Rapel Valley: Vina Misiones de Rengo SA Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Vina Misiones de Rengo SA.

• Cabernet Sauvignon - Stellenbosch - 2003: Saxenburg Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Saxenburg.

• Cabernet Sauvignon Blend - Napa: Oakville Ranch Robert's Blend 2001, Oakville Ranch Vineyards.

• Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - McLaren Vale: Geoff Merrill Pimpala Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2000, Geoff Merrill Wines.

• Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - Stellenbosch: Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Laureat 2004, Distell.

• Carmenere - Colchagua Valley - 2004: Arboleda Carmenere 2004, Vina Arboleda.

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An insider's look at a wine dinner

Photo by William M. Dowd

They come in my mail in bunches, announcements of and invitations to one wine dinner or another.

Some extol the virtues of various domestic and foreign wines. Others emphasize the food. Whatever the offer, all are trying to get a piece of a very old activity that suddenly has become the hottest thing in the restaurant world, especially since members of the increasingly competitive wine industry try for a greater share of business.

What goes on inside a wine dinner?

Each has its subtleties and differences, but there's a general pattern to them. Don't be put off by the "insider-speak" some attendees use to inflate their egos. It's really just a matter of putting together food and drink that tastes good.

A good example of the genre took place at the venerable Jack's Oyster House in Albany, New York's capital city. Jack's has been open for business every day since it opened its doors in 1912. The event paired the culinary skills of Dale Miller and the wine-making skills of David Lake.

Each man has earned top industry honors, so the opportunity to explore their efforts at the same event drew a sizable group to 42 State St. and a second-floor banquet room at the oldest restaurant in town.

Miller is one of fewer than five dozen professionals in the entire United States who hold the Certified Master Chef designation, a title conferred to only the occasional survivor of a rigorous multi-day practical examination at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

Lake holds the Master of Wine designation, which The Times of London calls "Britain's most rigorous professional examination.'' He's one of 226 in the world, and the only one in North America.

On this particular evening, it was a truly eclectic group, a mixture of wine novices, wine lovers, at least one competition judge, several wine sales execs and the just plain curious.

As with virtually all such events, what you find is an ad hoc partnership between the host restaurant and a winemaker, distributor or trade organization. On this evening, Canandaigua Wine Co. was featuring its Columbia Winery labels from Washington state, although the world's largest distributor obviously handles a wide range of brands.

The wine provider usually also supplies the host for the evening. The host handles the greetings, gives a brief background talk on the geography and climate of the area in which the featured wines are produced, and introduces a different wine with each course.

Ray Fox was the host, a genial, well-informed fellow who stays away from the intricate wine-snob jargon that is so off-putting to so many people, particularly those just getting into wine.

Prices vary, but generally are in the $45 to $75 per person range. The Jack's event was $65, which covered the meal, wines, tax and gratuity.

Miller tends to shine at special events, and this evening was no exception.

He opened with a pair of seafood appetizers.

A large, carmelized diver scallop was served with a clever "tartare'' of ruby grapefruit, avocado and roasted pepper. Citrus juices are wonderful with scallops, with a citrus marinade sometimes substituting for cooking. Here, the pan searing and the citrus inclusion were a perfect preparation device.

It was paired with a 1999 Columbia Yakima Valley pinot gris, with hints of lemon and grapefruit that worked beautifully with the scallop as well as its avocado garnish that always cries out for acid.

A slice of wild Copper River salmon filet was crusted in hazelnuts, basil and pine nuts, served with a pasta pillow stuffed with shredded leek and a vin blanc sauce. A 1997 Wyckoff Chardonnay from Columbia was a buttery, full-bodied perfect companion.

After a strawberry sorbet palate cleanser, guests plunged into the main course, a pan-roasted tournedo of beef with what Miller calls "a hodgepodge'' of smoky bacon, diced tomato and thyme, drizzled with a merlot-based demi-glace.

The succulent beef was accompanied by a truffled puree of Yukon Gold potato and a succotash. The wine accompaniments were a 1997 Columbia Milestone Merlot that I found rather thin and slightly sour, and a bold 1998 Columbia Syrah that offered an aromatic bouquet, rich flavor and smooth aftertaste.

The feast ended with a light, delicious gateau, an almond-scented cake with fresh berries, an apricot glaze and a splash of white chocolate. A peach-scented Columbia ice wine was the crowning touch.

Miller made an appearance, to enthusiastic applause, after the dinner to field questions from the guests. While he said more such dinners, with perhaps a live cooking demonstration, are in the offing, he said no theme had been decided.

Considering the initial dinner here was titled "April in Paris," and this one was called "North by Northwest," an appropriate movie title for any future event might be "La Dolce Vita."

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Italy says goodbye to tokai

Winemakers in the northern Italian region of Friuli have been making Tocai (or Tokai) wine for centuries. Now, says the European Union, they can keep on doing so but they have to call it by a new name: Friulanio.

Italy and Hungary have been feuding over the name for 50 years or more, with Hungarians claiming only white wine made in the Tokaj region of Hungary could legitimately lay claim to the name.

For some time, a lower court decision decided that both Italian and Hungarian producers could market Tocai, a ruling later upheld by the European Court of Justice in Luxembourg. However, as part of the agreements for Hungary’s accession to the EU in 2004, Hungary was given exclusive rights to the Tokai label from the end of March 2007.

With that deadline looming, winemakers in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region of Italy appealed to the European Court to overturn it. The court, however, ruled that Italian Tocai “does not qualify as a geographical indication” because “it has no special quality, reputation or characteristic that is attributable to its geographic origin.”

Gianola Nonino, whose family has been making wine at Udine in Friuli for generations, called the decision “appalling.”

“They have stolen a part of our history,” she told the Times of London, adding that the new name, Friulano, is “terrible” since it is simply an adjective describing anything that comes from Friuli.

Curiously, the tokai wines of the two countries are different. Italian Tocai is an aromatic dry white made entirely from the Tocai grape (known in France as Sauvignon Vert). Hungarian Tokai or Tokaji is a sweet dessert wine made using Furmint and Haréslvelü grapes.

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Competition booming Down Under

The annual Air New Zealand Wine Awards are getting to be such a major event, the competition for medals is ramping up.

Entries for this year's event have topped 1,700, an increase of about 10% over last year and an all-time high.

Wine varietals leading this year's wine awards are Chardonnay with 325 entries, Sauvignon Blanc with 318 and Pinot Noir with 236 entries. This year Viognier also gets its own class, with 22 entries received this year. This specialty white wine is growing in production due to consumer demand.

Marlborough wines once again topped entries with 680 wines all up, almost 40 per cent of the total entries, followed by Hawke's Bay with 412, Nelson with 126 entries and Gisborne with 125 entries.

New Zealand Winegrowers Chief Executive Philip Gregan said, "As we reach 20 years of Air New Zealand sponsorship, the awards are stepping out with a new look logo, medals and for the first time on-bottle recognition for trophy winning wines with a new sticker. The awards are as eagerly followed by consumers as the industry and this year we are launching a new interactive Web site and advertising campaign.

The wines will be judged over three days, Oct. 30-Nov. 1, in North Shore City. All wines are critiqued for either a bronze, silver or gold medal. Gold medal wines are then re-tasted to find the possible 19 Air New Zealand Wine Awards trophy winners, and final results will be announced on Nov. 11.

The overall medal results will be available here or here.

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Targeting the 4-pack market

Target stores in 19 states have gotten into the wine-selling business.

The variety store chain is selling Wine to Go, four-packs of wine in single-serving sizes of pinot grigio, cabernet sauvignon/shiraz, merlot and chardonnay.

However, in a nation of varying and often conflicting laws about sales of alcoholic beverages, availability is limited. Target does provide a map showing which states allow wine sales in its stores.

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Miracle of the vines

Sagrantino, a venerable wine from the Umbria region of Italy, has long been known for its deep red color. It originally was produced in the Middle Ages by followers of St. Francis of Assissi for use in religious services

Now, after a decade of research and experimentation between the University of Milan and the Arnaldo Caprai estate, a white version of the wine has been produced.

After 10 years of researches, Marco Caprai told the AGI news service, "We have managed to obtain a species of vine which, although it is not naturally-occurring, was present in the genetic features of the Sagrantino that we used to know. This result has been achieved resorting to self-fertilization, that is one of the most frequently used methods of genetic improvement applied to create new varieties of vines."

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007 returns to his beery roots

The late Ian Fleming's super spy James Bond has taken on a patina of sophistication over the decades that makes most fans forget his humble origins.

In the first Bond novel, "Casino Royale," the character who became known for his knowledge and enjoyment of wines and spirits actually drank beer. (Pause here for startled gasps by those reading this sacrilege for the first time.)

The 21st and latest latest Bond flick, a version of "Casino Royale" that is true to Fleming's novel rather than being twisted into a serio-satirical comedic mess that went under that title in 1967, has a definite beer tie-in.

Producers not only have the latest Bond actor, Daniel Craig, drinking beer, they have a six-figure deal with beermaker Heineken for a promotional partnership that includes a TV commercial shot on the Bond set featuring Bond girl Eva Green.

Quite a change for Bond who is remembered for some of his haughtier pronouncements. In 1962's "Dr. No" he turned up his nose at a 1955 Dom Perignon champagne, snootily telling his villainous host, "I prefer the '53 myself." Then, in 1964's "Goldfinger," Bond says of a brandy he is served, "I'd say it was a 30 year old Fine indifferently blended, with an overdose of Bon Bois."

Bottoms up.

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Canadians prefer goblet to shot glass these days

Earlier this year, I spent some time with master distiller Harold Ferguson at the Canadian Mist operation in Collingwood, Ontario, learning the basics of blending Canadian whisky.

As it turns out, I probably should have been spending more time with some local winemakers or wine sellers to stay current with Canadian consumer preferences.

According to a new Statistics Canada report, wines sales have outpaced spirit sales in the country for the first time ever, by a slight $4.2 billion to $4 billion (Canadian). Beer sales, however, remain way out in front with $8.4 billion in sales for the same fiscal year, which ended March 31, 2005, and was just reported.

The growth in wine sales has been mostly in reds, with sales of that sector up 60% in the past five years. That is more than double the increase in sales of white wine and triple that of all spirits.

Although Canada's modest wine producing sector experienced slight growth, 71 percent of wine bought in the country during the fiscal year was imported from, in order, France, Italy, Australia, the United States and Chile.

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