Christie's looking to '21' for bigger numbers

NEW YORK, NY -- A stash of Prohibition-era wines from a secret cellar in New York's legendary '21' Club will be part of a selection going up for auction Saturday at Christie's International in Manhattan.

There were 640 bottles in the cellar, according to Charles Curtis, Christie’s head of North American wine sales, including rare Bordeaux and Burgundy selections.

The auction will be held at Christie's, 20 Rockefeller Center.

The company is betting that the slightly improved economy will bring up prices for fine wines. Last fall, prices dropped by as much as half, which Christie's said was the company's worst experience ever. Prices at auction are generally 10 to 20% lower than last year's best, according to Lix-ex, the London electronic wine exchange.

Among the other highlights are six bottles of 1999 Musigny, Vieilles Vignes from the famous estate of Comte Georges De Vogüé, packed in the original wooden case (estimate: $2,200-3,000); three bottles of newly-released Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s La Tâche – Vintage 2006 (estimate: $1,500-2,000); a dozen bottles of 2001 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, packed in the original carton (estimate: $2,400-3,200); and a case of 1998 Barbaresco from Santo Stefano di Nieve (estimate: $1,000-1,500).

Go here for a detailed list of wines scheduled to be up for bids.

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A celebri-quote: Ricky Gervais

• British actor/comedian/producer Ricky Gervais ("The Office," "Extras") was interviewed by Bon Appétit magazine about alcohol, food and other things in his life.

Q: Any favorite indulgences?

A: Here's the bottom line. Cheese, wine and Champagne are amazing. Salt and chocolate are amazing. It's not rocket science. We're mammals -- we like fat, salt and alcohol. Mammals love alcohol.

You know, drunkenness occurs the same in animals as in adults, from mammals down to insects. Antelopes eat fermented apples and go down to the watering hole the next day and they're hung over.

[Go here for more celebri-quotes.]

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Lakewood's wine a NY product from start to finish

In the world of spirits, when one refers to an oak barrel it usually means American white oak or French Limousin oak. At Lakewood Vineyards on Seneca Lake, winemaker Chris Stamp is sticking to his own backyard.

Stamp (right) has begun aging his Chardonnay in 59-gallon barrels, built by coopers in Pennsylvania from New York State oak.

“It has produced an extremely nice Chardonnay,” Stamp told the Rochester Democrat & Chronicle. “We’ve had a consistent run of gold medals.”

As the newspaper reported, "Stamp’s original intent was to better capture the regional terroir by using locally sourced wood for his barrels. 'Where’s the sense of place if you’re using French oak barrels?' he says. After floating the idea in 2002, Stamp patiently waited -- three years -- for the barrels to be cured and seasoned before phasing them in. Lakewood ... now relies on this backyard bonanza for half of its Chardonnay vintage.. ... Stamp notes a more 'delicate' character imparted by our climate’s tighter-grain oaks'."

Dr. Frank Stamp founded the vineyard in 1951, leaving his dentistry practice in Maryland to do so. He bought Lakewood Farm, a rundown peach and apple orchard, and the next spring began planting grapes. The family grew commercial grapes only until 1988 when Monty Stamp (Frank's son), his wife, Beverly, and their children pressed the grapes for their first wine vintage.

Chris Stamp was raised on Lakewood Farm and went on to study food science and chemistry with the goal of becoming a winemaker. He graduated in 1983 and went on to work for Plane's Cayuga Vineyards, a pioneer winery on Cayuga Lake, then worked as a research and extension associate for the wine industry in Ohio. When Lakewood Vineyards winery opened, he returned to the family farm and has been winemaker for each of its vintages.

Lakewood Vineyards is located at 4024 State Road 14, Watkins Glen. It is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays. Phone: (607) 535-9252.

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World's oldest bartender retiring

• From the Associated Press

WEST VIEW, Pa. — Only minutes after Prohibition died in 1933, Angelo Cammarata, 19, served a 10-cent bottle of Fort Pitt beer to a customer in his father's neighborhood grocery.

Ever since, except for a 30-month hitch during World War II, the son of Italian immigrants has been tending bar and serving drinks. Guinness World Records dubbed him the longest-serving bartender a decade ago, and he's earned induction into Jim Beam's Bartender Hall of Fame and numerous other honors.

Now 95, he's calling it quits.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Midwest gets nation's largest AVA

You may not know the wine appellation "Upper Mississippi River Valley" now, but watch for it on wine labels at your favorite purveyor in the coming months.

It is the newest federally-approved American Viticulture Area (AVA) -- and the nation's largest, cutting through 29,914 square miles of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois and Iowa. The largest AVA had been the 26,000-square-mile Ohio River Valley.

The new designation comes as a response to wine and agriculture officials from the four states petitioned the U.S. Alcohol Tobacco and Tax and Trade Bureau, which designates AVAs, such as Napa and Finger Lakes.

The new region works as a specific geographic area, a necessary criterium, because, unlike much of the flat plains of the Midwest, the Upper Mississippi River Valley is covered with steep slopes and well-drained soil required to grow premium grapes, usually various hybrids since the harsh winters wreak havoc on less hardy grapes as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.

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Illinois alcohol taxes set to soar

Consumers in Illinois will be hit with the largest alcohol tax increase in state history come September 1. Oh, and many suppliers also plan to rase the prices of their products as well.

It reminds me of the situation a Canadian distillery official told me about during a visit to his operation a few years ago when the subject of high prices of adult beverages in his country came up.

"Why don't you find many Canadian alcoholics?" he asked. "Because no one makes enough money to be one."

In Illinois, the excise tax on alcohol is paid to the state by the manufacturer or distributor. According to the state's Department of Revenue, consumers can expect to see the tax on a six-pack of beer go up by 25% (from 10.4 cents to 13 cents), the tax on a bottle of wine go up 86% (from 13 cents to 28 cents), and the tax on a fifth of distilled spirits 90% (from 90 cents to $1.71).

That all is based on current prices. Once supplier price hikes are figured in, consumers probably will be paying about $3 more for a 1.75-liter bottle of spirits and $1 or more extra for a bottle of wine.

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Hormone Management Chart

Men, studies have shown that one's happiness-in-a-relationship factor can be improved by double-clicking on the chart below and memorizing its contents.



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They still exist???

A 136-year-old organization, gathered in Wichita, KS, this week for its annual convention, has found something current to complain about.

It's the Women's Christian Temperance Union, the same all-female organization that helped push through Prohibition back in 1919.

Their complaint? President Barack Obama’s suds summit with the Harvard prof and the local cop involved in a recent dustup that immediately became a cause celebre for people who love to play the race card -- from either side.

Bunny Galladora (honest), WCTU media director, said the meeting sent the wrong message because “alcohol and conflicts are not a good combination.”

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Whinnying for wine

Celebrity endorsements of wines and spirits are one thing, but do people really want to sip something endorsed by a horse?

This isn’t just any old horse, of course, of course. It’s the famous three-year-old filly Rachel Alexandra.

Kendall-Jackson Winery announced Tuesday that a limited edition of wines honoring the horse will be ready for the holiday season. K-J plans to produce and bottle 300 cases of the wines. Each bottle will bear the horse’s image.

Actually, we should have seen this sort of marketing gimmick coming. Kendall-Jackson co-owners Jess Jackson and wife Barbara Banke bought the filly in in May after she won the Kentucky Oaks by 20 1/4 lengths.

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IW&SC wine/spirits results are in

What event involves 10 weeks of blind tasting by 70 industry experts from around the globe evaluating light and fortified wines from 33 different countries across Europe, Asia, the U.S. and Canada?

If you said the International Wine & Spirits Competition you'd be right. The UK-based global event has wrapped up its Northern Hemisphere wine and spirits judging, with the Southern Hemisphere's products to be judged later in the year.

The judges awarded 102 gold medals, a number that represents just 3% of the entries.

Riesling enjoyed a resounding return with Germany taking 12 Gold medals, predominantly for this grape variety. France, Italy and Spain were the highest scoring countries judged by total medals won. New entries came from Turkey, Tunisia, Thailand, South Korea and Montenegro, with the latter plus Serbia, Slovenia, Sweden being the only four countries to win medals for each entry from their country.

Go here for the results, available by category, from the IWSC.

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Belhurst is NY's label & package champ

Belhurst Winery wound up as the best of the best in the 2009 New York State Wine Label & Packaging Competition.

The Geneva winery was awarded "Best in Show" for its cabernet franc, which had won the "Traditional" class title followed by its Carrie wine, and its Dry Rosé took "People's Choice" honors.

The competition was held at Sonnenberg Gardens & Mansion State Historic Park in Canandaigua, and was sanctioned by the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. The entries were on display at Sonnenberg since May, and ballots cast by visitors throughout that period determiend the "People's Choice" award.

The full list of award winners, by category:

Best in Show: Belhurst Winery Cabernet Franc.

People’s Choice Award: Belhurst Winery Dry Rosé.

Traditional: Belhurst Winery Cabernet Franc, winner; Hunt Country Vineyards Alchemy, honorable mention.

Natural/Nature: Arcadian Estate Winery 2 Roads Chardonnay, winner; Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars Salmon Run Chardonnay, honorable mention.

Art Illustration: Fox Run Vineyards Arctic Fox, winner; Atwater Vineyards Stonebridge Red, honorable mention.

Innovative: Belhurst Winery Dry Rosé, winner; Belhurst Winery Carrie, honorable mention.

Contemporary: Miles Wine Cellars, winner; Miles Wine Cellars Call Me A Cab, honorable mention.

Wine Label Series: Ventosa Vineyards Cabernet Franc/Pinot Noir/Tocai, winner; Adirondack Winery Autumn Brilliance, honorable mention.

Restaurateurs fight PA wine boutiques plan

• From the Philadelphia Inquirer:

PHILADELPHIA, PA -- It could end up being a case of sour grapes for some Philadelphia restaurateurs.

A small but vocal group, mostly of Center City restaurant owners, is organizing against a Liquor Control Board plan to open wine boutiques in gourmet groceries.

Among other concerns, those in the group worry that the proposal will siphon off customers and give the high-end food shops -- selected by the LCB -- an unfair advantage.

"I feel like the state is trying to sell houses when they make tractor-trailers. It's not their job to play with the culinary landscape of an area," said Jason Evenchik, owner of Vintage Wine Bar & Bistro, 129 South 13th Street.

Evenchik has joined with the owners of more than 50 establishments, most in Philadelphia, who have formed Restaurants for Fair Competition. They are asking the state Senate to derail the plan. The House has approved the legislation.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Going against the grain -- and the grape

William M. Dowd photo

Pairing wines and foods can sometimes be a puzzling process for those who don't do it very often. Or, when the foods are widely disparate and only one or two wines are desired.

Sometimes guesswork is as good as anything until you find what most pleases your palate. I usually advise going against the conventional wisdom of white with fish and poultry, red with beef and pork.

That came home to me once again when I was one in a party of four meeting recently for dinner at the restaurant Dale Miller two blocks from the stately Capitol building in downtown Albany, NY. The restaurant has an excellent wine list, and my assigned task was to decide on what one wine to drink with appetizers and entrees that ranged from a vegetable sampler to beef carpaccio to scallops to beef tenderloin.

I ended up selecting a 2006 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto from Chile's Maipo Valley, a rich, fruity bold wine that a good cab should be, one that held its own against the beef dishes but had enough subtlety and delicacy of finish to complement the scallops and vegetables without overwhelming either dish.

In the same week, I had to come up with a pair of wines for a dinner party for eight -- meaning a lot of different personal tastes -- for which I'd cooked a three-course Mexican menu.

This time I was in control of the menu, unlike at the aforementioned restaurant, so I could be more precise with what was needed to complement a wide-ranging dinner.

Starters were guacamole and a pico de gallo salsa, followed by tortas de cangrejo (lump Pacific crab cakes on a bed of micro-greens, dotted with a coarse mustard-mayo sauce).

Entrees were a carne de cerdo machado (herb-rubbed, oven roasted pork tenderloins, accompanied by a sauce of fresh cream, raisins, apricots, white wine and beef and chicken stocks) and estefado de pollo y tomatillo (a savory light stew of herbed chicken stock, thickened with a butter roux and studded with diced green tomatillos, yellow bell peppers, scallions, shallots, cilantro, served with brown basmati rice).

Dessert was a simple banana sauté in a sauce of rum, brown sugar and fresh orange juice.

[Go here for the rest of the story.]

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Electronically pairing wine and food

• From the Reuters news agency

Don't know which wine to have with a pepperoni pizza? There's an app for that -- as well as websites and Twitter.

The number of ways to discover the most suitable wine for a particular dish can be as overwhelming as walking into a large wine shop.

More than a dozen apps claiming to be the equivalent of a sommelier in your pocket are available for iPhones and iPods. And there are others for the BlackBerry and other mobile devices.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Time for a down-to-Earth 'Moonwalk'

Monday, July 20, will mark the 40th anniversary of astronaut Neil Armstrong’s historic walk on the moon.

The publicity mill at Grand Marnier is making sure everyone remembers its liqueur was part of the first cocktail Armstrong and his crew enjoyed upon their return to Earth in 1969.

The cocktail, called the “Moonwalk,” was created by Joe Gilmore, who was the head barman at the Savoy Hotel in London. Here is the recipe:

1 part Grand Marnier
1 part fresh grapefruit juice
2 dashes rosewater
Moët & Chandon Champagne

Shake ingredients well and strain into a wine glass. Top off with Moët & Chandon.

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New winery in an old brewery

For people who like both wine and beer in equal measure, Mansfield, OH, has the perfect recycling project to brag about.

Cypress Hill Winery has just opened in a former brewery.

Gary and Janice Jones and Rick and Carol Taylor are the owners and operators of the new enterprise, located at the rear of 37 East Fourth Street in the former Wooden Pony brewery.

They have been making wine informally for more than a dozen years, but as they got serious and began competing in Cleveland area amateur winemaking contests their skills expanded. Last year their 2006 zinfandel won best-in-show honors.

They now are licensed to sell their wines, once made in the Taylors' wine cellar, thus the need for expanded facilities. They are offering four different wines -- syrah, barbara, zinfandel (seen above) and cabernet sauvignon. All are made from 2007 California grapes and are barrel matured for at least one year.

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PA wine vending machine plan on hold

A Canadian wine-vending kiosk

You really do have to pay attention 24/7 in this fast-changing world.

One example:

• A Google headline on July 8:

Pennsylvania governor supportive of self-serve wine kiosks

• A Google headline on July 9:

Pennsylvania governor put stop to wine kiosk plan

So, which is it?

Both, as it turns out. Gov. Ed Rendell's office says he still supports the theory of selling wine via vending machines in grocery stores, but he has decided to temporarily put the state Liquor Control Board plan on hold.

He says he wants to see if the technology really works. No timetable has been announced, and no word on how one does this without giving it a trial run.

The idea is that the wine kiosks would scan a buyer's driver's license and use face recognition technology to verify the picture matches the buyer. The devices also would include a breath detector to make sure buyers are not inebriated.

The Liquor Control Board said the kiosks will be monitored by remote video and can cancel sales.

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Long Island wine country in a growth spurt

• From Newsday

Recession or not, a new crop of wineries, tasting rooms, vineyards and wines is making its way to Long Island wine country this season, suggesting that the business of sipping may not only defy but thrive in tough economic times.

From the planned September opening in Southold of a 10,000-square-foot tasting room and winery called Sparkling Pointe devoted exclusively to sparkling wines to a quaint red tasting shed across the road called One Woman Wines & Vineyards, Long Island will play host to nearly a dozen new winemaking operations over a one-year period, pushing the total to more than 60.

The "newcomers" include some stalwarts in the business. Just this week, Jason Damianos, the winemaker of Pindar Vineyards fame, plans to open a two-story, 5,500-square-foot winery and tasting room called Jason's Vineyard in Jamesport. His plans preceded the economic downturn, Damianos said. But financial changes since then actually have helped, because interest rates are down. "I'm hoping they stay low," he said.

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Law breaking tastes good in New York

If you're a New York resident who orders wine online from retailers outside the state, you also are a criminal, according to a federal appeals court decision handed down this week.

A Second Circuit Court of Appeals panel unanimously ruled that New York State's law permitting in-state retailers to ship wine directly to consumers but forbidding out-of-state retailers from doing the same is constitutional and within the state's rights under the 21st Amendment.

However, it is doubtful the ruling will mean much. Online sales are notoriously difficult to track and most retailers simply ignore the rules.

The ruling upheld a 2007 district court decision (Arnold's Wines Inc. v. Boyle). In it, an Indiana store and two New York consumers sued to overturn the state law. Their argument is that the U.S. Supreme Court's decision in the 2005 case of Granholm v. Heald, which bans states from discriminating between in-state and out-of-state wineries, also applies to wine retailers. The district judge dismissed the case and the Court of Appeals has now concurred with that decision.

The case is just one of several in the battle between retailers and wholesalers. Since the Supreme Court handed down the Granholm decision, suits and countersuits on both sides of the debate have popped up around the country.

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Come visit me

This is the logo for Examiner.com, a multi-topic Web site created by the same company that started the free-distribution Examiner newspapers in major U.S. cities.

I've been signed as the Web site's National Drinks Columnist, and I'm inviting you to join me here as well as on this site, for all the latest in beverage news and views -- spirits, wine, brews, non-alcoholic drinks.

(Bonus for those of you interested in the Upstate New York restaurant scene: I'm also Examiner.com's columnist for that topic. You can find it here.

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Mmmm, birch sap vodka and wine

• From Farm Focus of Atlantic Canada

As the cork is removed, hints of fruit are released, and once it's poured into a wine glass and lifted to one's lips, a semi-sweet taste with apple hints are followed.

That's according to the description for Lady of the Woods, a birch sap wine.

Craig Lewis, the brainchild behind the idea and the company Sap World, said he came up with the concept after reading an article about birch sap and its markets.

"When I read that article, something clicked," he said. "I did a bunch of research, invested $10,000, and on Baie Verte highway (Newfoundland) we ended up tapping 191 trees.

"(We) collected 500 gallons, took that to Rodrigues Winery and they produced 172 cases. We had that on the market and we sold that in three months."

[Go here for the full story.]

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Despite May frost, NY grape crop may be ample

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Bad weather, including a May frost that whacked the Concord grapes in the Lake Erie region, didn't stop New York from producing what looks to be a bumper crop this year. The question will be, what is the quality of the grapes?

However, much of that is up to what the winemakers do with the fruit. At the moment, assessments are being made on the tonnage of grapes and what to do with them.

"It looks like it’s going to be mixed in terms of quantity," says Jim Trezise, president of the New York State Wine & Grape Foundation (NYSWGF).

"While wine grapes look so plentiful that a surplus is expected and new markets are being sought, the Western New York Concord crop loss is so severe that Senators Kirsten Gillibrand and Charles Schumer have asked Gov. David Paterson to request federal disaster relief from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. However, wine grapes are grown primarily in other regions and suffered virtually no damage, with the vines progressing normally and a potentially large crop."

The NYSWGF is partnering with Cornell Cooperative Extension on a system to attract wineries from other states that may be interested in purchasing New York grapes. The core of the program is a "matchmaker" Web site showing grapes, or juice, or bulk wine for sale, or wanted. Neither NYWGF nor CCE are involved in any transactions.

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Belhurst Riesling takes NYS Fair top honor

Belhurst Winery's 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling won the blue ribbon for "Best In Show" at this year's New York State Fair Commercial Wine Competition.

As a run-up to taking that honor, the wine took "Best of Category - White" double gold as well. Not a terribly surprising decision, considering rieslings' preeminence among New York wines. This year, 61 New York wineries entered 390 in the contest.

The competition was held at the Wegmans Pride of New York demonstration kitchen at the fairgrounds in Syracuse. Competition for fair ribbons are held in categories ranging from dessert cakes to dairy cattle, most of which will be decided during the Great New York State Fair scheduled for August 27 to September 7.

However, commercial wine judging traditionally has been held well before the fair to allow winners to use the results in summer marketing. The award-winning wines are featured in a special display in the Horticulture Building during the fair.

Belhurst is located near Geneva, overlooking Seneca Lake. It is dominated by Belhurst Castle, a stone building dating to the 19th Century which is part of a year-round lodging complex that includes White Springs Manor, a Georgian Revival Mansion with period guest rooms, and the Vinifera Inn.

Other best in category selections:

• Red: Peconic Bay Winery Merlot 2005
• Sparkling: Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs 2002
• Fruit: Montezuma Winery Cranberry Bog NV
• Dessert: Ventosa Vineyards Tocaice 2007
• Rosé/Blush: Anthony Road Wine Co. Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2008
• Fortified: Goose Watch Winery “Finale” White Port 2007
• Specialty: Montezuma Winery Rhubarb NV
• Mead/Honey Wine: Earle Estates Meadery Raspberry Reflections NV

Other double-gold winners (unanimous gold of all panel judges):

• Belhurst Winery Dry Riesling 2008 Double
• Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs 2002
• Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs 2002
• Chateau Frank Celebre Rose NV
• Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards Gewürztraminer 2008
• Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Semi-Dry Riesling 2008
• Lucas Vineyards Chardonnay 2007
• Ventosa Vineyards Tocaice 2007

Other gold winners:

• Americana Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay 2007
• Anthony Road Wine Company Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2008
• Anyela's Vineyards Semi-Dry Riesling 2008
• Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Riesling 2008
• Bashakill Vineyards Black Bear 2007
• Chateau Lafayette Reneau Dry Riesling 2008
• Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Dry 2007
• Goose Watch Winery "Finale" White Port 2007
• Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards Homestead Riesling 2008
• Heron Hill Winery Semi-Dry Riesling 2007
• Heron Hill Winery Semi-Sweet Riesling 2007
• Hunt Country Vineyards Seyval Blanc 2008
• Peconic Bay Winery Merlot 2005
• Swedish Hill Winery Vidal Blanc 2008
• Swedish Hill Winery Svenska White NV
• Thirsty Owl Dry Riesling 2008
• Young Sommer Winery Semi Dry Traminette NV
• Anthony Road Wine Co. Semi-Dry Riesling 2008
• Anthony Road Wine Co. Semi-Sweet Riesling 2008

Go here for the full list of all medal winners.

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Delaware wine/beer sales bill tabled

Well, that didn't last long.

A bill just introduced in the Delaware state legislature that would allow supermarkets to sell beer and wine (see earlier story) has been tabled by a House committee.

House Bill 193, sponsored by Rep. John J. Viola, D-Newark, would have made Delaware the 46th state to allow stores other than package stores to sell beer and wine. He said the licensing fee -- $100,000 for the first year and a $5,000 biennial renewal fee -- could have raised up to $10 million the first year “and substantial revenues after that.”

However, Siobhan Sullivan, director of the state Division of Alcohol and Tobacco Enforcement, told the committee the division would have to hire 12 new agents at a cost of $700,000 to enforce the bill.

DelawareOnline reported that Viola, who chairs the committee, wasn't happy with being unable to fend off the vote to table. Had that happened, he said, he would have been able to address the arguments against it “backed up by data and facts.”

The bill also was opposed by package-store owners, who packed the House chamber for the hearing. Tabling makes it unlikely it will be considered before the June 30 adjournment deadline.

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Which wine goes with iPhone?

Selecting the perfect wine for the occasion is an age-old practice. But, as with most things, technology has gained a foothold.

"Hello Vino," a free app available through iTunes, delivers personalized wine recommendations to an iPhone or iPod Touch.

The free app, available through iTunes, selects the perfect type of wine to go with a meal or occasion, or to give as a gift. Wine shoppers need only install the app, and answer a few simple questions to get a specific wine recommendation. Hello Vino offers beginning wine consumers an easy way to make an educated wine purchase both in the store and at a restaurant.

"Buying wine can be very intimidating," says Rick Breslin, Hello Vino CEO. "You're standing in the store, looking at a wall full of hundreds of bottles, and you have no idea which wine to buy. Hello Vino takes the pressure off."

The app recommends wine varietals as well as specific brands. Ratings and information including pricing and reviews help consumers pick the ideal bottle. It can be used with or without an Internet connection.

Video demonstrations are available here. You can download the app here.

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A celebri-quote: Danny Wegman

• Danny Wegman, 62, is an entrepreneur, philanthropist and head of the Wegmans supermarket chain, which owns 72 stores in five states as well as an emerging restaurant concept connected with some of the market sites. Wegmans will open three stores this year -- two in Virginia and one in Pennsylvania -- and has plans for new locations in Maryland and Massachusetts as well. He was interviewed by his hometown Rochester Democrat & Chronicle.

Q: What's your take on the issue of wine in supermarkets? Why didn't it get approved in New York State this year?

A: Well, when seven out of 10 people want something and it doesn't go through ... there are obviously some special interests in there somewhere.

The whole wine and liquor industry is a very strange subset of America that plays by totally different rules. Competition is synonymous with every other part of America except for wine and liquor.

We happen to think that wine is part of food, so we'll probably keep working to try and see if we can't make that happen.

[Go here for more celebri-quotes.]

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Wine Institute picks new chairman

• From the San Francisco Business Times

The Wine Institute, which represents California wineries that produce 85% of U.S. wines, elected Ray Chadwick of Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines as its chairman for fiscal 2009-2010.

... Chadwick, who has been Napa-based Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines’ president and CEO since 2001, steps down July 1 to become a non-executive member of the DC&E’s board, according to the Institute and Diageo. That move was part of a broader reorganization announced in early March.

Also elected to the group’s board were Tom Klein of Healdsburg’s Rodney Strong Vineyards as first vice chairman; David Kent of the San Francisco- and Livermore-based Wine Group as second vice chairman; Kathleen Heitz Myers of St. Helena’s Heitz Wine Cellars as treasurer; and José Fernández of Constellation Wines U.S. as secretary.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Hugel, Alsatian wine giant, dead at 84

• From SFGate.com

Jean Hugel, a leading force in resurrecting the Alsatian wine trade after the devastation of World War II and the longtime head of one of the best-known and oldest producers in Alsace, died Tuesday in Ribeauville, Alsace, France. He was 84.

The cause was cancer, his nephew Etienne Hugel said.

For people who began drinking wine in the 1970s and '80s, discovering the wines of Alsace, in their slender, fluted bottles, was no small pleasure. Thanks to Mr. Hugel's efforts to introduce his wines to the rest of the world, many of those bottles bore the name Hugel & Fils.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Tennessee direct-shipping now allowed

Back in January, a federal appeals court upheld Tennessee's ban on direct wine shipments to residents' homes. Now, a new line has been signed by Gov. Phil Bredesen that will allow it.

The law allows wineries that acquire a $300 license to ship up to three cases to Tennessee consumers per year. That raises to 36 the number of states that allow direct shipment of wine.

Bredesen earlier had signed into a law a bill allowing Tennesseans to buy and bring home up to five cases of wine at licensed out-of-state wineries. That was done to overcome the appeals court opinion that found existing rules designed to promote Tennessee wineries were unfair to out-of-state competitors.

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EU drops rosé labeling proposal

Concerns that European wines labeled "rosé" might be mere blends of red and white have been laid to rest.

EU Agriculture Commissioner Mariann Fischer Boel announced Monday she was withdrawing the proposed new rule. It had been strongly opposed by winemakers from Spain, France and Italy. Their contention was that mixing red and white wines would turn winemaking into an industry rather than a skill and put thousands of people out of work.

Traditional, quality rosé generally is made from dark-skinned grapes that otherwise would be used for white wine production. The clear juice from crushed grapes is allowed to remain in contact with the grape skins and seeds for a certain amount of time, during which it acquires the pale pink rosé hue before fermentation.

European Union labeling rules apply only to wines produced in EU-member countries. They have no effect on other countries' winemakers, some of which make what they call rosé by the blending method.

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Hong Kong's first winery in operation

You won't find any vineyards on the island of Hong Kong, but you will find wines made there.

A new enterprise, the 8th Estate Winery, has produced Hong Kong's first wine, using grapes that are shipped frozen from other countries. The winery is housed in a high-rise warehouse and has just released its first batch of reds, whites and ice wines.

"There is an initial novelty value, a little bit of a shock seeing a bottle which says 'Product of Hong Kong' because there has never been a wine bottle that has said that before," winery director Lysanne Tusar told the Reuters news service. "We always label where our grapes came from and we are quite proud to say where the varieties are sourced."

All the winery's grapes for 2007 came from Washington state. For 2008 wines, the grapes came from Italy. The white wines include sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, the reds merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

The winery has produced 100,000 bottles; 60,000 have been sold and the rest are being aged. They are being initially distributed to local restaurants and hotels, and thus use no preservatives.

8th Estate was created in response to Hong Kong's decision last year to eliminate taxes on wines in an effort to become Asia's wine hub.

The wine industry estimates that total spending on table wine in Asian economies, excluding Japan, is around $7 billion, which accounts for about 7% of the global market.

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NY political flap may kill wine sales push

The fallout from the shift in power in the New York State Senate yesterday -- what is rather hysterically being called a "coup" by many in the media -- will have to be assessed on an item-by-item basis. (Keep up with the quickly-evolving situation on the Albany Times Union's Capitol Confidential blog.)

One possible victim may be the well-thought-out proposal by Assemblyman Joseph Morelle, D-Monroe County, to allow wine sales in supermarkets. Unlike the earlier flawed proposal by Gov. David Patterson that went nowhere, Morelle's idea broadened the proposal to take into account opposition to such legislation by liquor store owners and others.

However, it remains a volatile and emotional topic that would need extensive debate and attention to go anywhere before the current legislative session is scheduled to end in late June.

If you're a betting person, don't lay any money on wine sales rules changing anytime soon.

[Go here for my earlier report on Morelle's proposal.]

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Delaware latest wine/beer-in-markets battleground

Proponents of a bill that would allow supermarkets to sell wine say it will raise more revenues for the state and give consumers more choice.

Opponents say it would cost more in closed small businesses and lost jobs than it would help in other ways.

The battleground? No, not New York State which is in the second round of debating different proposals. This time it's Delaware.

The difference is that while approval of such proposals would allow both wine and beer to be sold in supermarkets in Delaware, such vendors have sold beer in New York for ages.

Delaware State Rep. John Viola, a Democrat, says the legislation could raise up to $10 million in its first year because it would require supermarkets to pay a $100,000 license fee.

But package store owners claim that is an inflated figure, and that many small businesses selling wine and beer would fold, thus cutting into projected revenues.

One of the major opponents is the Asian-American Business Association, which was a major player in killing such a proposal in 2006.

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NY market wine-sales proponent explains his plan

This week, the New York State Legislature is expected to take up the topic of wine sales in supermarkets once again.

Thanks to legislation being introduced by Assemblyman Joseph Morelle, D-Monroe County (Rochester/Finger Lakes area), shown at right, the debate will be broadened to take into account opposition to such legislation by liquor store owners and others.

An earlier proposal by Gov. David Paterson fizzled out in the face of strong opposition and lack of protections for current wine sellers, primarily liquor store owners who expressed fears they would be driven out of business by expanded competition, particularly from major companies whose reach is much wider than their self-described "mom and pop" status.

I discussed the new approach with Morelle, who said he felt the governor's proposal did nothing to help liquor store owners and did not address drinking-safety concerns for others.

"The concerns are not trivial," Morelle said, "but we cannot remain stuck in a business model created in 1920 when the size of wine industry we now have could not have been foreseen.

"There are only 2,500 sales outlets for the state's 19 million people, and the number of liquor stores gets smaller each year. That does nothing to help nurture our expanding wine industry which is an important part of the state's agricultural picture. We're now the third-largest grower of grapes in the nation, but it is difficult to adequately supply New York wines to consumers because of the limited number of sales outlets."

Morelle listed the main points of his plan:

• More than one liquor store license could be owned by an individual or company. They now are limited to a single location.
• Liquor store owners would be allowed to make purchases on a cooperative basis, thus allowing them to get best-price deals based on larger volume.
• Liquor stores would be able to sell directly to restaurants and taverns of less than 1,000 square feet.
• A medallion system would be put in place to freeze the number of licenses, then allow a small increase in the number each year.
• A product list would be created by the State Liquor Authority (SLA) to allow sales at liquor stores of such things as food items, gift bags, T-shirts, etc., all of which now are prohibited.
• Anyone purchasing any kind of alcoholic beverage would have to provide proof of legal age.

"Our current legislative session runs through the end of June, so I'm not sure how far we'll get with this, but it should expand and energize the discussion," Morelle said. "It's not a small matter and we need to fix it in a fair, thorough way to give more business people an even break."

How open is the wine country politician to discussion?

"I'll talk to anyone with any point of view," he said. "No one wants to hurt anyone, but we can't keep going in this archaic structure. The experience of other states that allow wine sales in supermarkets shows a huge increase in revenues for the state, jobs being created on a variety of levels, and better opportunities for many more people."

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What next for Finger Lakes wineries?

• From the Rochester (NY) Democrat & Chronicle

... The Finger Lakes region's wine industry as we know it has its genesis in the state's 1976 Farm Winery Act, which allowed small farms to sell directly to consumers at farm-site tasting rooms and minimized otherwise prohibitive licensing fees. Since then, the number of wineries in the region has grown from about two dozen to more than 100.

Many of the first generation of winery owners — those launched in the 1970s and 1980s — and others who joined the industry later in life are reaching retirement age.

The question naturally arises, what happens next?

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Illinois targeting alcoholic beverage niches

• From the Bloomington, IL, Pantagraph

SPRINGFIELD, IL -- At the same time Gov. Pat Quinn and lawmakers are considering taxing wine and liquor to fund a statewide construction program, the governor’s proposed budget calls for cuts in state aid to Illinois wineries.

Quinn’s budget plan would slash about $225,000 in funding used for research and advertising. The proposal, however, is subject to change as lawmakers work toward a May 31 scheduled adjournment. ...

Illinois wine industry leaders were in Springfield on Friday trying to make sure they were spared from cuts. Coincidentally, the group said they received last year’s state funding, six months late, the same day.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Florida A&M targets viticulture program

Florida A&M University's efforts to create a viticulture program have taken one step forward and, perhaps, one small step back.

The Leon County Development Review Committee this week approved the university's plan to build a 7,400-square-foot office and 7,200-square-foot greenhouse on nearly 45 acres of land as part of its long-range aim of a viticulture program that will encompass education and the cultivation of grapes for wine making.

However, to build near Interstate 10 the committee said A&M's College of Engineering Sciences Technology and Agriculture will have to add construction of a sidewalk. A consulting engineer for the college contends that is an expense and responsibility the school should not have to accept because a sidewalk project at the plot already is part of a project being undertaken by the state Department of Transportation.

Stay tuned for further developments.

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Newest Texas wine trail making debut

The latest wine trail in Texas will be celebrated when wines from each of the four members are sampled by the public on Saturday, May 23.

The new Dallas Wine Trail consists of the Calais Winery, Inwood Estates Vineyards, Fuqua Winery and Times Ten Cellars. The event will be hosted by Times Ten.

In addition to the wines, hors d'oeuvres will be provided by il Cane Rosso Pizza Napoletana. Tickets, priced at $45 in advance and $50 at the door, are available online.

The ticket price includes 12 tastings, hors d'oeuvres, a Dallas Wine Trail sommelier-style wine glass, a Dallas Wine Trail six-bottle wine tote, and a premium bottle of Dallas wine.

Go here to access information on the other Texas wine trails.

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'Bama hikes wine alcohol limit

Alabama has raised the limit on alcohol content in wines sold in the state.

Gov. Bob Riley signed legislation Thursday that makes the bill passed last week by the state legislature the law.

The limit for table wine had been 14.9% by volume but now is 16.5%.

The bill was sponsored by Sen. Steve French, R-Birmingham. It specifies that the stronger wine may not be sold in convenience stores.

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Brooklyn winery's first vintage due out

New York State's latest wine offering may be coming from a little old place called Brooklyn.

The Red Hook Wine Co. is nearing the end of production of its first vintage, expected to be available for sale in June. It is producing about 500 cases of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, using only grapes grown in the state.

The Grocery in Carroll Gardens and Kevin’s in Red Hook will be among the first restaurants to carry the wine. The wines will carry such Brooklyn-inspired names as "Seven In Heaven," a tribute to Red Hook firefighters who died on September 11, 2001.

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... and just a hint of urine

• From the Herald-Sun of Australia

Cat's pee and sweaty passion fruit are hardly flavors to make your mouth water, but it seems Kiwis can't get enough of them.

These are the core aromas of New Zealand's world-leading sauvignon blanc, according to a six-year study by a team of lucky wine scientists.

The team spent more than $12 million ($9.1 million US) defining the flavors of the country's most popular grape variety, which has a unique flavour and character that has captured the world's interest.

They concluded it was a winning combination of sweet, sweaty passion fruit, asparagus, and cat's pee.

The tests were carried out by an expert sensory panel trained to distinguish between 16 flavors, including canned and fresh asparagus, stone fruit, apple and snow peas.

Thanks to Richard Lovrich for pointing out this story.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Vermont eases wine, spirits sales law

Vermont winemakers and distillers got good news Tuesday when Gov. Jim Douglas signed a bill allowing them to sell more products on-site.

Previously, wineries could offer tastings or sell bottles of wine. Distilleries could do neither.

Now, wineries also may sell glasses of wine on-premises, and distilleries can offer tastings and sell bottles of their spirits.

In addition, wineries will be allowed to sell and offer tastings of other winemakers' wares, rent their sites for events such as weddings, and produce and sell fortified wines such as ports.

Vermont's first winery was founded 25 years ago, and the state now is home to 20.

Ed Metcalfe, of Whitingham, told the Associated Press he was on the fence about opening a distillery in Vermont if he couldn't sell his vodka and specialty liquors on site. He said the new law cinched it for him, allowing him to sell and offer tastings at the distillery he plans in Marlboro.

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Tennessee wine sales bill dropped

There won't be wine sold in Tennessee supermarkets anytime soon.

State Sen. Bill Ketron, the Senate sponsor of a proposal to allow such sales, has formally withdrawn the bill from consideration for the year.

He noted the proposal had drawn strong support among consumers, but also had strong opposition. He plans to revive it in next year's legislative session.

Currently, Tennessee grocery stores are prohibited from selling wine and liquor stores are prohibited from selling beer.

[You can read the proposal, titled SB0120, here.]

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Today New Yorkers pay up to drink up, perhaps

New York State's increased taxes on beer and wine take effect today.

The state has raised the excise tax on beer by about 28%, from 11 to 14 cents a gallon, and about 58% on wine, from 19 to 30 cents a gallon.

Consumers may have to help vendors, barkeeps and restaurateurs pay that tax hike, although it's not mandatory. Some undoubtedly will pass along the increases, but others have said they'll try to absorb the hit of several cents a bottle.

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