In defense of Pinot Grigio's status

The unfairly mailgned wine.

Sweeping pronouncements about wine probably play some part in why newcomers often are turned off by wine snobbery.

That is why I like to poke a stick at people who make such silly comments. Here's the most recent I've come across. It is a quote from Michael Madrigale, head sommelier at Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud in New York City, according to the blog EatOcracy:

"Ordering a bottle of Pinot Grigio is like ordering salmon at a four-star restaurant -- not entirely bad, but something more appropriate for your grandmother."

What utter drivel! Could it be that Madrigale's employer -- the celebrity chef Daniel Boulud -- makes more money selling other wines if he steers customers away from such things as Pinot Grigio, which usually is fairly priced? I would rather a sommelier, especially such an influential one, make his sales by recommending wines on their own strengths rather than knocking an entire category.

Some of my better casual lunches have been salads and fowl accompanied by a lightly chilled Pinot Grigio -- usually Santa Margherita which is, I believe, the top seller in the category.

The crispness of that wine, with rounds notes of melon, grape and light floral, pairs wonderfully with everything from a bold cheese to a grilled chicken breast to a cider wine vinaigrette on field greens. Oh, and salmon, too.

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