Natural wine conference set for NYC

The 6th annual Natural Wine Event is set for Saturday, March 6, at the Astor Center in New York City.

In addition to tastings of more than 20 such wines, a series of short seminars will be held throughout the afternoon.

The scheduled speakers are natural winemakers Tony Coturri of Sonoma, CA, and Alain Rochard of Minervois, France, and Andy Fisher, president of Astor Wines & Spirits and Astor Center.

Wineries to be featured include:

• Chemins de Bassac from Languedoc-Roussillon
• Colombaia from Tuscany, Italy
• Olivier Cousin from the Loire (Anjou/Saumur)
• Domaine des Deux Anes from Languedoc-Roussillon (Corbières)
• Le Loup Blanc from Languedoc-Roussillon (Minervois)
• Ch. Tire Pé from Bordeaux
• Coturri from Sonoma, CA

The Astor Center, dedicated to food and wine education and events, is located at 399 Lafayette Street at East 4th Street in Manhattan. Phone: (212) 674-7501. Tickets are $15 each, and can be purchased online.

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DC prepping for International Wine & Food Fest

Finishing touches are being put on Washington, DC's 11th annual International Wine & Food Festival, set for February 11-14.

The four-day event will feature more than 600 wines, along with a variety of events at various venues.

The major event is the Grand Tasting & Street-Fare Food Pavilion at the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center on Saturday and Sunday, February 13-14, from 2 to 6 p.m.

The festival will conclude with a screening of the film "Bottle Shock," a movie about how Napa Valley’s Montelena Winery challenged France’s position as the world’s top wine producer in 1976, putting California wines on the map.

Tickets for all portions of the event are available online.

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California wine sales dropped in '09

California remains No. 1 in domestic wine production, but the state's wine industry experienced a drop in shipments in 2009, the first such loss in 16 years.

Consumption of wine nationally rose 2.1% last year, according to new statistics just released. However, industry analyst Jon Fredrikson says, the public is buying less expensive imported bulk wine rather tha the pricier California wines.

Speaking at the annual Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento, Frederikson said, "Usually, we're raving about how great the year was, but this was probably the worst year you ever had."

The state's seven largest producers last year had overall sales growth of nearly 7 million cases. Overall, however, the state's wine industry shipments dropped nearly 4%, nearly 4 million cases, for the first 11 months of last year.

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Kosher wine-and-food extravaganza in NYC

From time to time, I get an inquiry about kosher wine and food events. They're few and far between.

However, if you're willing to trek to Manhattan, you can take care of that problem on Monday (February 1).

The Royal Wine Corporation of Bayonne, NJ, is hosting a "Kosher Restaurant & Wine Experience" at 6:30 p.m. at Pier 60, Chelsea Piers. The event will feature tastings from 20 kosher restaurants -- Abigael's, Cho-Sen Gardens, Fumio, Glatt a la Carte, Le Marais, Pomegranate, Noi Due and Taverre 84 among them -- and 200 varietals from 40 international wineries.

Numerous winemakers will be on hand. There also will be a seminar by Jay Buchsbaum, Royal’s fine wine director Jay Buchsbaum.

The cost is $100 per person or $175 a couple. Details and reservations: Call (888) 710-2439 or go online.

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What is Bill drinking?

I've just added a trio of products to my Dowd's Tasting Notes site.

Join me there to get the lowdown on three products you won't come across every day -- a wine, a liqueur and a whiskey. Specifically:

• Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel

• American Fruits Sour Cherry Liqueur

• McKenzie Rye Whiskey

On Dowd's Tasting Notes, you'll find a large archive of comments on wines, whiskies, brews and other adult beverages, Feel free to post your questions or comments.

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Lafite '82 auctioned for $46.7 thousand

Anyone used to buying Two-Buck Chuck or similar inexpensive wines may choke on their goblets over this news.

A 6-liter bottle of Chateau Lafite 1982 went for the equivalent of US$46,700 at a sold-out wine auction in Hong Kong.

The sale came during a 10-hour event Thursday covering more than 800 lots. The total sales were $6.8 million, nearly twice the pre-auction estimate by host Sotheby’s.

Despite frequent news reports of economic woes in China, mainland Chinese bidders won about a quarter of the lots.

Hong Kong eliminated wine duties in February 2008, which has sharply increased interest in wines and wine collecting. The city held 14 wine auctions last year which pulled in an estimated $64.3 million.

Sotheby’s says Hong Kong has surpassed London as its second largest market, and it now ranks behind only New York.

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NY wine-in-markets plan fills gaps

Widespread support quickly formed up this week after New York Gov. David Paterson unveiled his proposed Executive Budget that calls for allowing wine sales in supermarkets. The details in his proposal appear to make up for some of the objections by liquor store owners to a pending bill now before the State Legislature.

The state's ongoing search for new revenues is tied to potential taxes to be paid on such expanded sales. The governor's office has estimated potential annual revenue of $147 million for the state.

The group New Yorkers for Growth and Open Markets, a statewide coalition of advocates seeking liquor law changes, has praised Paterson's proposed FY2011 Executive Budget for including the "Wine Industry and Liquor Store Revitalization Act."

The Paterson version expands on last summer's proposal by Assemblyman Joseph Morelle, D-Monroe County, and State Senator Liz Krueger, D-Manhattan, that still is pending. That bill, titled the "Wine Industry and Liquor Store Revitalization Act," is sponsored by 36 legislators from across the state. It is intended to address criticism from liquor store owners fearful that large chain markets would severely hurt their base.

Among the additions the Paterson proposal would make:

• Eliminate Prohibition-era restrictions by allowing liquor store owners to expand their product offerings to include such items as wine accessories and snack foods, something they're currently prohibited from selling.

• Increase the number of stores that may be owned, thereby lifting the current on-license-per-company limit.

• Allow the sale of wine in those outlets currently licensed to sell beer. That would open up significant new markets for wineries.

New Yorkers for Growth and Open Markets is comprised of New York State wineries, grape growers, liquor stores, business organizations, grocers and farmers advocating for comprehensive changes to the state's antiquated liquor laws that will result in increased consumer choice and opportunities for economic growth.

Some comments from various industry spokespersons in favor of the proposal:

• Scott Osborn, president of the New York Wine Industry Association: "We are grateful to the Governor for his continued leadership on an issue that is so critical to the sustainability and growth of the New York wine industry. The inclusion of the much needed reforms for our partners, the liquor stores, makes this a comprehensive revitalization package we whole heartedly support."

Bob Demeo, a liquor store owner in Troy, NY, for nearly 30 years: "After last year's wine in grocery store proposal included nothing to help liquor stores, we said to Albany, 'Fix the liquor laws, make this work for our industry too, and give us a chance to compete on a level playing field.' And you know what? They listened. The fact is that there are liquor store owners in New York who support sensible changes like these that can improve our businesses and enhance our bottom line."

Jim Bedient, president, New York State Wine Grape Growers: "[We] join together with our fellow small business partners around the state in applauding Governor Paterson for his commitment to the growth and development of the grape-growing and wine community in New York. Allowing for the sale of wine in food stores will create new jobs and new revenue for our state while providing greater consumer choice for all New Yorkers. New York is home to more than 1,000 grape growing farms and over 270 wineries who welcome the opportunity to place their product in new retail markets. Governor Paterson's proposal will continue to help our growers, vintners and wineries rejuvenate our industry and restore New York to one of the premier wine and grape producing states in the nation."

Dean Norton, president, New York Farm Bureau, the advocacy group for family farmers: "New York Farm Bureau has long supported allowing wine in grocery stores, as well as modernizing the liquor laws so that retail liquor stores can also succeed. Our organization stands behind the Governor and his thoughtful consideration of this important economic development initiative for New York's growing wine and grape sector," said the state's largest agricultural advocacy organization for family farmers."

Heather Briccetti, vice president of government affairs of The Business Council of New York State: "The sale of wine in grocery stores will help New York's wine industry, grape growers while producing new revenue for the state. The current proposal will also help liquor stores compete in the marketplace. This plan will create jobs and increase economic activity in New York."

Scott Wexler, executive director of the Empire State Restaurant & Tavern Association: "New York State has had a long-standing need to update its liquor laws, and this comprehensive approach will go a long way toward modernizing an antiquated system. Not only will it help liquor stores, wineries and grape growers, but other small businesses such as restaurant or tavern owners are likely to benefit as well – and the more we can support small businesses, the better the economic outlook will be for all New Yorkers."

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Wineries Unlimited event targets profit

"Show me the money" could be the subtitle of the upcoming Wineries Unlimited conference.

The formal title is "Balancing Costs and Quality for Profit," the theme of what is the second largest vineyard and winery conference and trade show in North America. It is scheduled for March 9-12 at the Valley Forge Convention Center in King of Prussia, PA. The event has been produced by Vineyard & Winery Management magazine since 1976.

"The conference theme ... is both relevant and a top priority,” said Richard Leahy, program director and East Coast editor of the magazine (current issues seen above).

"Despite the recession, we can’t afford to sacrifice wine quality, but we must stay profitable. The challenge is how to find the right balance that works for vineyards, wineries and their customers."

"Balancing Costs and Quality for Profit" also is the title of a March 11 plenary session that will be conducted by researchers Keith Striegler, director and Viticulture Program leader at the Institute for Continental Climate Viticulture and Enology at the University of Missouri, and Chris Gerling, extension enologist at Cornell University.

Both will discuss how they interpret the conference theme from their respective professional viewpoints, and later, present four specialized sessions.

The full conference schedule is available online.

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Crispin cider puts on a new face

The Crispin Cider Company is putting a new face on its "blue line" of natural hard apple ciders.

The new packaging (right) features a larger Crispin Tree logo, as well as richer, bolder
colors and embossed lettering to give the bottle a more premium look and feel.

Crispin is headquartered in Minneapolis. Its Blue Line consists of the Elegant Original, Invigorating Light and Brut, a European-style extra-dry.

Among its other products, it also makes a yellow-labeled Crispin Honey Crisp Artisanal Reserve (left), a small batch super-premium hard cider smoothed with organic honey. The makers suggest all their ciders be consumed over ice.

Crispin Hard Ciders are naturally fermented using apple juice rather than apple juice concentrate, from a premium blend of West Coast apples, with no added malt, grape wine or spirit alcohol. It is smoothed with pure apple juice or from such natural sugar sources as organic honey or organic maple syrup, and contain no added colorants, sorbate or benzoate preservatives and are filtered cold. They also are gluten free. person.

If you're not up on the ins and outs of hard cider, go to my "All things cider and how to taste them" guide.

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San Francisco about to be ZAP-ed

The 19th annual Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) Festival is set for January 28-20 in San Francisco.

The event, to be held at the Fort Mason and Intercontinental Hotel, is three days of tastings, wine pairings and seminars.

Beverly Gannon (above left), chef of the Hali'imaile General Store in Maui, Hawaii, will prepare Hawaiian-themed food to pair with selected Zins at the January 28 dinner at Herbst Pavilion in Fort Mason.

More than 250 producers will offer samples of their wines at the Grand Zinfandel Tasting on January 30.

Admission to individual events or all three days ranges from $59 to $524, and is by advance purchase only. Information is available online.

Go here for a video interview with Chef Gannon.

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Constellation cuts its cider connection

Constellation Brands has sold off a 240-year-old English cidermaker.

Constellation, headquartered in Victor, NY, near Rochester, completed the sale of its Gaymer Cider Company to the C&C Group of Dublin, Ireland, for about US$80 million.

The C&C Group is best known for producing Magners cider and the lager brand Tennents.

Total cider volumes fell by 15% in the UK over the past three months. A C&C spokesman said business conditions in its core cider markets are "challenging."

The C&C Group’s longtime core brand was Bulmers Cider, but it held brand rights only in Ireland. Thus, it had to develop a new brand to launch outside its home market. The Magners brand was introduced for this purpose in 1999.

C&C acquired the Tennents brand and Wellpark Brewery in August 2009 from brewing giant Inbev, now Anheuser-Busch InBev.

Constellation Brands is the leading producer of premium wines in the world, with a portfolio that includes spirits, imported beers and other select beverage alcohol products. It is the largest premium wine company in the U.S., the largest wine company in the UK, Australia and Canada, the second largest wine company in New Zealand, and the largest beer importer and marketer in the U.S. through its Crown Imports joint venture with Mexico's Grupo Modelo.

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She can see vodka from her window

She has no known connection with the wine and spirits industries, but Alaska ex-governor Sarah Palin has been scheduled to deliver the keynote speech at the 67th annual Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) convention in Las Vegas in April.

The former Republican vice presidential candidate was chosen because she "is a great supporter of America's free enterprise system and understands that industries like the beverage alcohol industry play a key role in driving our national economy," said Craig Wolf, WSWA president and CEO.

"We expect she will share with the convention attendees her analysis of the current political environment and her vision for America's future."

Normally, prominent figures in the industries are selected as keynote speakers.

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Boston Wine Expo discount tix available

Discounted tickets are available until January 15 for the 19th annual Boston Wine Expo, scheduled this year for January 23-24 at the Seaport World Trade Center.

The organizers call this the largest trade and consumer wine event in the country, with more than 450 wineries participating and pouring samples of more than 1,800 wines from domestic and foreign producers.

The event also includes free food samples from a wide variety of vendors, as well as workshops and seminars.

Full details are available online.

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Napa's Copia facility still in limbo

April L. Dowd photo

• From the North Bay (CA) Business Journal

NAPA, CA -- More than a year after Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, filed for Chapter 11 protection with the U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Santa Rosa, its future is still up in the air.

Copia opened its doors on Nov. 1, 2001, and closed them for good on Nov. 21, 2008, after a tumultuous seven-year run. Built at an initial cost of $55 million, and with major funding from Robert Mondavi and family, the non-profit center lost more than $4 million a year and never attracted the numbers of ticket buyers, memberships or donations forecast in its business plan.

"We are still evaluating possible options for Copia," said a spokesman for Alvarez Marsal LLC, the New York City-based real estate firm retained to market the property. "Some alternatives that have been considered include leasing part of the complex and selling other segments, but no final decision has been reached."

The vision of Copia’s founders was that it would be all things to all people when it came to discovering, understanding and celebrating wine, food and the arts in American culture. It was billed as a cultural museum and educational center, but it was much more. It housed a rare books library, a 74-seat demonstration kitchen, wine tasting table, a gourmet restaurant named for Julia Child, a cafe, gift shop, a 3.5 acre flower and organic edible garden, an event venue with 13,000 square feet of gallery space for exhibitions, a 260-seat theater and also boasted an outdoor concert terrace with seating for 700 plus 341 parking spaces.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Never piss off a billionaire

From the Los Angeles Times:

William Koch (right) didn't mean to turn the wine world upside down.

The Palm Beach, FL, billionaire developed a taste for wine as a young man and, as he accumulated wealth, built an extensive wine collection. Among that collection: a 1787 Lafite Bordeaux with Thomas Jefferson's initials etched into the bottle.

Except, he says, it's a fake.

"I thought that I had a piece of history, a piece of America's most important history," Koch said, holding up the bottle in his wine cellar, which contains about 40,000 bottles.

His response to the alleged fakery was unheard of in the wine world: He sued the seller.

Since that initial lawsuit, he has filed four more and is working on another. He says he aims to clean up an industry where a single bottle can fetch more than $100,000.

Now, collectors are warier. Some auction houses are shunning him.

And the wine world hasn't been the same.

[Go here for the full story.]

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'Calistoga' approved as a wine designation

Chalk up one more designation in the ever-more-complex world of U.S. wine labeling.

Napa Valley winemakers have been cleared by the federal government to put the name "Calistoga" on wines made from grapes grown in that California town.

The decision by the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, which regulates wine and wine labels, goes into effect early in 2010. A California law also requires Napa vintners to use the words "Napa Valley" on labels.

Local vintners first petitioned the feds in 2003 for the Calistoga permission. Calistoga, located in the northern part of Napa Valley, is one of the region's oldest communities.

The lengthy process, and some lobbying and lawsuits that created quite a controversial situation, are detailed in this report on the SFGate.com website.

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Late billionaire's wine going to auction

To people of a certain age, the name Doris Duke will ring a bell. A gold-plated bell.

The late, lone heir to the estate of tobacco tycoon James Duke once was known as the "richest little girl in the world." In 1924, at the age of 12, she inherited his $100 million estate derived from both Duke Energy and the American Tobacco Co. which today is known as Fortune Brands.

She was known as a philanthropist and excellent businesswoman whose estate was worth $1.2 billion at the time of her death in 1993.

Among the many things she collected over her lifespan was wine. And, not just any wine. Four lots from her cellars will be up for auction at Christie's in Manhattan on Wednesday, December 9.

Each of the four lots of three bottles of 1929 Chateau d'Yquem has a pre-sale estimate of $15,000 to $24,000.

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NY grape becomes signature Indiana wine

Traminette, a grape hybrid from Cornell University's Agricultural Experiment Station, has been given the designation of the state's first signature wine.

The state, however, is not New York, but rather Indiana.

Confused? Go here to read the whole story.

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A celebri-quote: Elizabeth Hurley

• Actress-model Elizabeth Hurley, 44, told a reporter from London's Daily Mail that she has switched from wine and coffee to vodka to maintain her famous figure.

"I used to drink an awful lot of coffee, but I was told after the age of 40 you have to be careful with coffee and wine. I don’t miss having a glass of wine because I’ve switched to vodka.

"I don’t really like vodka that much but if I’m at a party, I have a small one with a lot of fizzy water and a huge squeeze of lime. Initially it’s like medicine but I’ve gotten used to it now."

[Go here for more celebri-quotes.]

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A celebri-quote: Kate Hudson

Like her mom, the actress Goldie Hawn, Kate Hudson has never been on the chubby side. Quite the opposite, as discussed in an interview with the actress in the current issue of Elle magazine. She dropped to about 105 pounds for a movie role as a terminally ill woman.

"I love my glass of wine. I love tequila.

"To be in New York for two weeks and not have one beverage! I'm not sure I've ever done that.

"I'm not, like, 110 pounds, but I'm probably heading towards that."

[Go here for more celebri-quotes.]

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About that Brunello problem ...

The U.S. government's concern over improper blending of several Italian wines, including by some makers of the popular Brunello di Montalcino, has not been resolved.

Italy requested a meeting with U.S. officials to discuss its ongoing investigation of the situation. Giulio Terzi di Sant'Agata, Italian ambassador to the U.S., and Luca Zaia, Italian minister of agriculture, told officials of the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade (TTB) board that they are taking full responsibility for the integrity of all 500 Italian wine denominations.

They said none of the mislabeled products that have been the subject of numerous press reports remain on the market. They also cited heightened quality control mandates and an oversight role for the Ministry of Agriculture.

Nevertheles, the TTB said it is continuing to enforce the certification requirement and has no plans to lift it. Industry observers have speculated that court cases against violators taking place in Italy will have to be resolved before the restrictions will be eased.

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California wine center on the block

April L. Dowd photo

COPIA, the Napa, CA, wine and culinary center that teetered on the edge of insolvency through much of its brief history, is up for sale.

The owner is seeking bids for the shuttered facility that declared bankruptcy last December after running out of cash. Bidders have until Nov. 12 to submit proposals for the 17-acre property, according to a real estate company handling the sale.

The $78 million complex offers “an exciting opportunity for a new owner to develop a vibrant and valuable commercial and tourism destination,” he said.

ACA Financial Guaranty Corp., which controls the property, put it on the market. ACA insured the bonds issued to pay for COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts. Proceeds from the sale will go to repay the bondholders. The property is worth $25 to $35 million in the current market, according to estimates in bankruptcy court filings.

COPIA was the brainchild of wine pioneer Robert Mondavi, who died last year at age 94. It was financially troubled since its 2001 opening as a facility that included museum exhibition space, a restaurant, expansive gardens, meeting rooms and art galleries.

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Vin de Table becomes Vin de France

It may not mean much to the average wine buyer at first, but the denomination "vin de table" now is "vin de France."

The change comes as a result of the reform of the Common Market Organization (CMO) of the wine sector in Europe and the new category "Vin de France." In the change, ANIVIT (the acronym for National Wine Council of Vins de Table and Vins de
Pays) officially became Anivin de France (National Council of Vin of France).

The new category replaces Vin de Table, and, for the first time, allows the mention of varietal and vintage on the label.

The new wine councail says its missions "are entirely centered on the development of the new category Vin de France -- wines without geographic denomination, conforming to the missions defined by the CMO of the wine sector." In plain English, that means specifically:

• Ensure a permanent and ongoing association among the different professional bodies of producers and trade professionals.

• Improve the knowledge of the organization and regulation of the markets.

• Develop the exposure, accessibility and penetration of Vin de France, primarily through public relations, tastings and trade exhibitions, publicity, advertising and sales promotion.

• Promote moderate and responsible consumption, notably within the association Vin et Societe. Vin et Societe is a group whose missions are also to promote moderate consumption and to convey the economic, commercial and cultural values of wine.

• Participate in national or regional Research and Development programs, and in collective action by the wine sector as a whole.

The board of directors of Anivin de France was named by the four founding organizations: AGEV (the General Union of French Wine Producers), CFVDP (French Federation of Vin de Pays), VIF (Independent Winegrowers of France) and CCVF (Federation of French Wine Cooperatives) to drive the new category of Vin de France, with or without the mention of varietal and vintage.

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Report slams NY liquor authority

The official word is out concerning the embattled State Liquor Authority, a bumbling bureaucracy that has been assailed on many fronts. Not surprisingly, it reinforces most of the long-standing criticisms of the authority.

The first part of the New York State Law Revision Commission's two-part report on findings and recommendations notes:

The SLA's current nine-month backlog of license applications reflects a failure in the licensing process, jeopardizes public health and safety, and exacerbates the economic crisis currently plaguing New York. Small business owners, and some large ones as well, are forced to suffer ever-mounting expenses for months on end without the income generated from having these licenses. The situation deprives the state of new revenues from sales and income taxes, and it depresses the growth of new jobs in local communities.

Despite that sweeping condemnation, apparently the SLA was not found guilty of The Great Train Robbery, the hanging-chad controversy in George Bush's election, or the disappearance of Amelia Earhart.

The SLA itself was not alone in being chastised by the Commission. In a slap at some in other branches of state government, the Commission said:

"Some people, including those quite familiar with the SLA's budget, have remarked about the backlog: 'What's the big deal, the state has already banked the license fees, the applicants can wait.' This shortsighted view, to be kind, is nothing less than foolish. The 'What's the big deal‚' advocates both in and out of government basically view the SLA as a 'cash cow‚' and care little about the importance of an expeditious, careful and fair licensing process dedicated to the well-being of New York's citizenry and the State itself. ... A New York County [Manhattan] grand jury is in the midst of concluding a criminal investigation into the bribery of SLA licensing examiners by corrupt 'expediters' that is expected to be completed by the end of October. The State Inspector General is also expected to issue a report in the near future detailing the corruption and other problems in the agency."

Among recommendations made by the Commission:

• The SLA should have the authority to declare a moratorium when it deems that the backlog of licenses has ended.
• Give the SLA the needed number of employees to allow it to carry out its mission.
• The SLA should create two positions of regional manager (one for New York City, and one for Albany, Syracuse and Rochester) to oversee daily administration ... including customer service.
• Develop policies that ensure that enforcement focuses on serious violations with an impact on public safety, and more closely monitor businesses with a history of complaints and violations.
• Investigate non-economic incentives such as those adopted by other State agencies to motivate and reward staff and alter the negative agency culture that has evolved over time."
• Owners of restaurants that have a wine, beer or full liquor license pending should be eligible to secure a BYOB (bring your own bottle) permit.

You can go here to read or download Part 1 of the report. The Commission said it "will evaluate the current structure of the SLA in Part 2 of its report."

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Cider: Is there a comeback in the making?

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Over the years, I've occasionally written about cider. Not that sickening sweet diluted stuff sitting in bottles on your supermarket shelf, but real cider. The sort of beverage enjoyed throughout Europe for centuries and in this country until the 20th. (For example, 'All things cider and how to taste them' back in December.)

Brian Palmer, writing for Slate.com, has an interesting take on the topic of cider and speculates on whether it is making a comeback in this country. Here's how he begins:

"During the 1840 presidential election, opponents of William Henry Harrison portrayed him as a hard-drinking bumpkin. In a savvy act of political jujitsu, Harrison embraced the charge, branding his campaign paraphernalia with a portrait of pure Americana: a log cabin and a barrel of cider. Harrison rode the image to a 234-60 Electoral College victory over incumbent Martin Van Buren.

"Shortly after the Harrison landslide, Americans would begin to drift away from his beloved libation. ... A century later, cider would be almost completely forgotten. Most Americans now consider cider -- if they consider it at all -- to be in the same category as wine coolers or those enigmatic clear malt beverages: chemically suspect, effeminate alternatives to beer. And who can blame them? America's mass-market ciders are comically weak and inexplicably fizzy. Many are made not from cider apples but from the concentrated juice of eating apples, which is a bit like making wine from seedless table grapes. ... Let's get back to our roots."

Go here for the full essay. And, go here and enter the word CIDER in the search box for a list of related stories.

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NY International Wine Awards to be unveiled

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There's a new wine competition in town. At least there will be in New York City.

Dori Bryant, president of The Polished Palate, and spirits writer Adam Levy tomorrow will announce the debut of the New York International Wine Awards (NYIWA).

The NYIWA is a competition that will award the best wines in various categories as judged by the people on the front line of consumer contact. Trade-only judges will consist of restaurant owners, sommeliers, liquor store buyers, and distributors and importers of fine wine.

Jack Robertiello of Drinks Ink will act as the competition host and lead the judging panel.

Bryant and Levy hosted the premiere New York International Spirits Awards in June 2009. The success of that inaugural event led to the expansion of the franchise to include wine.

The judging for the NYIWA will take place in closed sessions the week of February 6, 2010, at the Astor Center in New York. The deadline for brands to enter is January 22, 2010.

“The NYIWA is the first wine competition to rely solely on the results of trade-only judging," said Bryant. "These judges are the front line of consumer purchases on a daily basis.”

Details and entry forms are available online.

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Wine exciting enough to cry over

When Dick Vermeil (below) was a head coach in the National Football League, he was known for his emotional, teary outbursts as much as for his success in the won-lost columns.

He coached two Super Bowl teams, losing with the Philadelphia Eagles in 1981 but winning with the St. Louis Rams in 2000.

Now retired from that world and at age 73, Vermeil is working hard on Vermeil Wines, his boutique winery founded last year in Calistoga, CA. Its first offering, Jean-Louis Vermeil Cabernet-Sauvignon named after his late father, has gone to market.

What's the quality level?

Robert Parker Jr., the globally well-regarded critic for the Wine Advocate, said:

"His initial dive into the wine world is impressive. It goes against the rule of thumb that celebrities rarely achieve anything special in the world of wine."

Vermeil, who was born in his great grandfather’s home in Calistoga, leases a 178-acre vineyard near the Silverado Pass from the Frediani family. He is producing only about 1,500 to 2,000 cases of upmarket wines this year -- cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, zinfandel, cabernet franc and a charbono. Most of it will be online or in the winery's store.

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A celebri-quote: James Bond

• Author Ian Fleming's fictitious spy James Bond has uttered many a lasting quote in print and on film. Here's one from the film version of "Goldfinger," as spoken by Sean Connery.

"My dear girl, there are some things that just aren't done, such as drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit.

"That's just as bad as listening to the Beatles without earmuffs!"

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MA farmers markets seek wine-sales OK

• From the Boston Herald

Go to any farmers’ market in Massachusetts and you can pick from a mouthwatering array of fruits and vegetables, fresh-baked breads, homemade jams and other products straight from local farms. You can’t, however, sip a chardonnay, sniff a merlot, or purchase any other offerings made at the nearly three dozen farm wineries and vineyards from Cape Cod to the Berkshires.

Now, a group representing winemakers, with the support of state agriculture officials, is pushing to change state law to permit wine to be sold at the roughly 200 farmers’ markets that are held each week in Massachusetts.

It would be a change long overdue, according to Kip Kumler, owner of Turtle Creek Winery in Lincoln and chairman of the Massachusetts Farm Winery and Growers Association. ...

Sen. Jamie Eldredge (top), D-Acton, calls winemaking a "hidden secret" of Massachusetts agriculture. He’s the lead sponsor of a bill that would permit wine tastings and sales at farmers’ markets.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Maine's wine, spirit makers on the prowl

• From McClatchy-Tribune Information Services

CAMDEN, ME -- Maine wine and spirit makers face an uphill battle to win market share, but they are welcoming the challenge.

C.C. Peet of Cellardoor Winery in Lincolnville, Steve Linne of Blacksmiths Winery in South Casco, Bob Bartlett of Bartlett's Winery in Gouldsboro and Bob Harkins of Cold River Vodka in Freeport detailed the challenges of the wine and spirit business during a panel discussion ... at the 4th annual Maine Fare celebration.

Maine Fare's goal is to assist in preserving, protecting and sharing Maine's culinary history and resources. The event highlighted Maine products through panel discussions, tastings, exhibits and samplings. The wine and spirit panel was moderated by Jack Scully of Belfast's Easterly Wine.

All agreed that the key thing they have working for them is the Maine brand. Whether marketing wine or spirits, having a product that is made in Maine makes it easier to attract buyers.

"There is a tremendous loyalty to Maine-made and -grown foods," Scully said. "The possibility for growth in the wine and spirit field is terrific. I think the growth of Maine products both inside the state and outside the state has great potential."

All three vintners said that because wine has a certain "snob factor," it's difficult to convince buyers that wines made of blueberries and other fruits can match up with grape wines from France or California. Bartlett, who has been in the business more than 30 years, said some wine drinkers are reluctant to sample his wines simply because they are made from fruit. He said working with restaurants individually is one way of overcoming that problem.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Christie's looking to '21' for bigger numbers

NEW YORK, NY -- A stash of Prohibition-era wines from a secret cellar in New York's legendary '21' Club will be part of a selection going up for auction Saturday at Christie's International in Manhattan.

There were 640 bottles in the cellar, according to Charles Curtis, Christie’s head of North American wine sales, including rare Bordeaux and Burgundy selections.

The auction will be held at Christie's, 20 Rockefeller Center.

The company is betting that the slightly improved economy will bring up prices for fine wines. Last fall, prices dropped by as much as half, which Christie's said was the company's worst experience ever. Prices at auction are generally 10 to 20% lower than last year's best, according to Lix-ex, the London electronic wine exchange.

Among the other highlights are six bottles of 1999 Musigny, Vieilles Vignes from the famous estate of Comte Georges De Vogüé, packed in the original wooden case (estimate: $2,200-3,000); three bottles of newly-released Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s La Tâche – Vintage 2006 (estimate: $1,500-2,000); a dozen bottles of 2001 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, packed in the original carton (estimate: $2,400-3,200); and a case of 1998 Barbaresco from Santo Stefano di Nieve (estimate: $1,000-1,500).

Go here for a detailed list of wines scheduled to be up for bids.

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A celebri-quote: Ricky Gervais

• British actor/comedian/producer Ricky Gervais ("The Office," "Extras") was interviewed by Bon Appétit magazine about alcohol, food and other things in his life.

Q: Any favorite indulgences?

A: Here's the bottom line. Cheese, wine and Champagne are amazing. Salt and chocolate are amazing. It's not rocket science. We're mammals -- we like fat, salt and alcohol. Mammals love alcohol.

You know, drunkenness occurs the same in animals as in adults, from mammals down to insects. Antelopes eat fermented apples and go down to the watering hole the next day and they're hung over.

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Lakewood's wine a NY product from start to finish

In the world of spirits, when one refers to an oak barrel it usually means American white oak or French Limousin oak. At Lakewood Vineyards on Seneca Lake, winemaker Chris Stamp is sticking to his own backyard.

Stamp (right) has begun aging his Chardonnay in 59-gallon barrels, built by coopers in Pennsylvania from New York State oak.

“It has produced an extremely nice Chardonnay,” Stamp told the Rochester Democrat & Chronicle. “We’ve had a consistent run of gold medals.”

As the newspaper reported, "Stamp’s original intent was to better capture the regional terroir by using locally sourced wood for his barrels. 'Where’s the sense of place if you’re using French oak barrels?' he says. After floating the idea in 2002, Stamp patiently waited -- three years -- for the barrels to be cured and seasoned before phasing them in. Lakewood ... now relies on this backyard bonanza for half of its Chardonnay vintage.. ... Stamp notes a more 'delicate' character imparted by our climate’s tighter-grain oaks'."

Dr. Frank Stamp founded the vineyard in 1951, leaving his dentistry practice in Maryland to do so. He bought Lakewood Farm, a rundown peach and apple orchard, and the next spring began planting grapes. The family grew commercial grapes only until 1988 when Monty Stamp (Frank's son), his wife, Beverly, and their children pressed the grapes for their first wine vintage.

Chris Stamp was raised on Lakewood Farm and went on to study food science and chemistry with the goal of becoming a winemaker. He graduated in 1983 and went on to work for Plane's Cayuga Vineyards, a pioneer winery on Cayuga Lake, then worked as a research and extension associate for the wine industry in Ohio. When Lakewood Vineyards winery opened, he returned to the family farm and has been winemaker for each of its vintages.

Lakewood Vineyards is located at 4024 State Road 14, Watkins Glen. It is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays. Phone: (607) 535-9252.

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World's oldest bartender retiring

• From the Associated Press

WEST VIEW, Pa. — Only minutes after Prohibition died in 1933, Angelo Cammarata, 19, served a 10-cent bottle of Fort Pitt beer to a customer in his father's neighborhood grocery.

Ever since, except for a 30-month hitch during World War II, the son of Italian immigrants has been tending bar and serving drinks. Guinness World Records dubbed him the longest-serving bartender a decade ago, and he's earned induction into Jim Beam's Bartender Hall of Fame and numerous other honors.

Now 95, he's calling it quits.

[Go here for the full story.]

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Midwest gets nation's largest AVA

You may not know the wine appellation "Upper Mississippi River Valley" now, but watch for it on wine labels at your favorite purveyor in the coming months.

It is the newest federally-approved American Viticulture Area (AVA) -- and the nation's largest, cutting through 29,914 square miles of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois and Iowa. The largest AVA had been the 26,000-square-mile Ohio River Valley.

The new designation comes as a response to wine and agriculture officials from the four states petitioned the U.S. Alcohol Tobacco and Tax and Trade Bureau, which designates AVAs, such as Napa and Finger Lakes.

The new region works as a specific geographic area, a necessary criterium, because, unlike much of the flat plains of the Midwest, the Upper Mississippi River Valley is covered with steep slopes and well-drained soil required to grow premium grapes, usually various hybrids since the harsh winters wreak havoc on less hardy grapes as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.

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Illinois alcohol taxes set to soar

Consumers in Illinois will be hit with the largest alcohol tax increase in state history come September 1. Oh, and many suppliers also plan to rase the prices of their products as well.

It reminds me of the situation a Canadian distillery official told me about during a visit to his operation a few years ago when the subject of high prices of adult beverages in his country came up.

"Why don't you find many Canadian alcoholics?" he asked. "Because no one makes enough money to be one."

In Illinois, the excise tax on alcohol is paid to the state by the manufacturer or distributor. According to the state's Department of Revenue, consumers can expect to see the tax on a six-pack of beer go up by 25% (from 10.4 cents to 13 cents), the tax on a bottle of wine go up 86% (from 13 cents to 28 cents), and the tax on a fifth of distilled spirits 90% (from 90 cents to $1.71).

That all is based on current prices. Once supplier price hikes are figured in, consumers probably will be paying about $3 more for a 1.75-liter bottle of spirits and $1 or more extra for a bottle of wine.

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Hormone Management Chart

Men, studies have shown that one's happiness-in-a-relationship factor can be improved by double-clicking on the chart below and memorizing its contents.



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They still exist???

A 136-year-old organization, gathered in Wichita, KS, this week for its annual convention, has found something current to complain about.

It's the Women's Christian Temperance Union, the same all-female organization that helped push through Prohibition back in 1919.

Their complaint? President Barack Obama’s suds summit with the Harvard prof and the local cop involved in a recent dustup that immediately became a cause celebre for people who love to play the race card -- from either side.

Bunny Galladora (honest), WCTU media director, said the meeting sent the wrong message because “alcohol and conflicts are not a good combination.”

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Whinnying for wine

Celebrity endorsements of wines and spirits are one thing, but do people really want to sip something endorsed by a horse?

This isn’t just any old horse, of course, of course. It’s the famous three-year-old filly Rachel Alexandra.

Kendall-Jackson Winery announced Tuesday that a limited edition of wines honoring the horse will be ready for the holiday season. K-J plans to produce and bottle 300 cases of the wines. Each bottle will bear the horse’s image.

Actually, we should have seen this sort of marketing gimmick coming. Kendall-Jackson co-owners Jess Jackson and wife Barbara Banke bought the filly in in May after she won the Kentucky Oaks by 20 1/4 lengths.

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IW&SC wine/spirits results are in

What event involves 10 weeks of blind tasting by 70 industry experts from around the globe evaluating light and fortified wines from 33 different countries across Europe, Asia, the U.S. and Canada?

If you said the International Wine & Spirits Competition you'd be right. The UK-based global event has wrapped up its Northern Hemisphere wine and spirits judging, with the Southern Hemisphere's products to be judged later in the year.

The judges awarded 102 gold medals, a number that represents just 3% of the entries.

Riesling enjoyed a resounding return with Germany taking 12 Gold medals, predominantly for this grape variety. France, Italy and Spain were the highest scoring countries judged by total medals won. New entries came from Turkey, Tunisia, Thailand, South Korea and Montenegro, with the latter plus Serbia, Slovenia, Sweden being the only four countries to win medals for each entry from their country.

Go here for the results, available by category, from the IWSC.

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